/ A few thoughts on Sicily

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Just had two weeks in Sicily (San Vito) a great venue, well worth putting on the 'list'. There are around 450 routes within walking distance of the El Bahira camp-site (supposedly closed but has bungalows, caravans or tenting), the setting is lovely in a really wild corner of Sicily. The place was busier than we were expecting - having imagined it might have been completely deserted in late Feb/early March. The weather was a teeny bit unsettled, though we only actually lost one day through rain. Generally temperatures were fine, the crags dry quickly, access takes minutes from the accommodation, and as the cliffs face west, afternoons climbing were pure pleasure. Shops, bars, restaurants an beaches in 'town' - a five minute drive away.

Great setting: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=215312
Bumpy seas: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=215315

From the road the cliffs look a bit scrappy, but the climbing was excellent almost without exception, the routes of all grades tend to be steep and the bolting is encouraging. Many of the pitches are very long and a bit on the sharp side - the norm for Med limestone I guess.
In summary - a great spot that deserves to become popular, the combination of sea-side setting, the great climbing, the easy accommodation and superb accessibility sure take some beating. There are 'only' around 600 routes in the whole area at the moment - compared to Kalymnos's 1700 - but that is a great starter - there is a lot of rock out there.
Top marks to Jim and Scott Titt plus all the other equippers have done us a great service.

A few climbing pics:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=215308
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=215306
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=215309


Chris
Heike - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Not to mention all the other areas were you could climb near there and the great food! Oh, but we had very bumpy seas when we were there as well! Very windy and that was Easter.
Andy Say - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I'll second that having spent a week out there a few years back. Some good bigger routes the other side of town as well.
scott titt - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Thanks very much Chris
Scott
Rog Wilko on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
>
>
> the routes of all grades tend to be steep

You got me interested there Chris until the phrase above!
Rog Wilko on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko: ... but then you did find a lot of 4s and 5s. Is this the next Rockfax effort?
David Coley - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Another vote for the Titt brothers, great effort.
jimtitt - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Chris would never keep up!
Hary Röker (the Gebro guide author" was also there last week to check out the new routes, there´s about 50 not in the current Sicily Rock guide.
The UKC logbook count isn´t up to date. From the 2012 guide it is:-

2-3 12routes
4a 5
4b 9
4c 9
5a 15
5b 32
5c 38
6a 121
6b 109
6c 77

plus whatever of the new routes fits in these grades.

We´ll probably bolt another 25 or so over Easter though the easier routes take a hell of a lot of cleaning!
Simon Caldwell - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
A brief write up of our 2010 trip, with links to loads of photos
http://yorkalpineclub.org.uk/blogs/?p=1839
andyathome - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
For some of the routes a quick look at some of the more esoteric lower-offs, and how to thread them, produced by Mr Titt might not go amiss - I had some head scratching at the top of a couple of routes!
Rog Wilko on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Toreador: Thanks. Enjoyed reading. May come back to you for more nuts and bolts info in the future.
Rog
In reply to andyathome:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> For some of the routes a quick look at some of the more esoteric lower-offs, and how to thread them, produced by Mr Titt might not go amiss - I had some head scratching at the top of a couple of routes!

Yes - they could deffo do with one in the campsite to practice on!


Chris
psborland on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to all : We will be there in a couple of weeks for the first time. Any particular restaurant / eatery recommendations ? thanks.
fatbuoybazza - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to psborland: Try either Sapori Di Sicilia or Ristorante Syrah,
(I can't remember which one it was!), we bumped into Scott and Jim in there one evening after they'd recommended the place to one of our group, hopefully Jim or Scott can confirm which restaurant it is/was!, both eateries are right next door to each other at the bottom of Via Faro. google maps will show you the way..
psborland on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to fatbuoybazza: Cheers Bazza !

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