/ Multi-pitch free climbing in Norway

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SarahMoore86 - on 21 Mar 2013
I am a US climber looking for input on the best quality areas in Norway for multi-pitch free climbing in Norway!
I climb 5.12 but am more comfortable on 5.11 in the multi-pitch environment.
No trips have been planned yet so every area is a possibility at this point.
Thanks for the beta!
alexey dolinin - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to SarahMoore86:
It depends a bit upon what you're after and how much time you've got. Near Oslo, Nissedal is a prime destination. Up North, Lofoten Islands are a very special place with loads of climbing on fantastic granite. And in between the two the whole country's fantastic, Romsdalen, Setesdal, Kjerag - just google. If I'd travel that long, I'd definitely go to Lofoten, both the climbing and the scenery are superb. Multi-pitch climbing is mostly trad, sometimes with equipped belays and an add bolt or two at unprotectable cruxes.
SarahMoore86 - on 21 Mar 2013
I looked up Lofoten and it looks like an amazing area. The Presten caught my eye, do many people rope solo that formation?
In reply to SarahMoore86:
> The Presten caught my eye, do many people rope solo that formation?

I'm not sure why you would? Besides anything else, the classic route is very popular so I imagine rope soloing where you have to lead, rap and jug each pitch would make you really unpopular with the other teams that are trying to do it.

Look up the guide book for Kval°ya, the island next to Tromso, it's an amazing place, possibly even better than Lofoten.

SarahMoore86 - on 21 Mar 2013
I've been on a rope soloing kick, but if its that popular I wouldn't want to make any enemies. Thanks for the input!
alexey dolinin - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to SarahMoore86:
If you mean the West Pillar, it's not uncommon with ques there when the wheather's really good. But there are other lines on Presten of about the same difficulty and much less frequented. Rockfax guide covers it all very well.
adnix - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to alexey dolinin:

Nissedal, Setesdal, Rogaland, Uskedalen, Romsdal, Lofoten and Kvaloya. Those all have a definite guidebooks with big routes. In addition there's some broken alpine rock in Hurrungane.
cyberpunk - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to SarahMoore86: Lofoten Islands

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