/ Who makes this belay jacket?

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Carolyn - on 28 Mar 2013
OK, it's another lazy "which belay jacket" question. But I do know what I want it to do, honest, just trying to narrow down models to try a bit.... and the gear geeks on UKC did me a good job on finding softshell trousers with built in gaiters, so I'm trying you again ;-)

Use is largely British winter (into spring/autumn). Either as an extra layer for any sitting around on easy routes, or mountain rescue stuff - both much the same kind of thing really - stomping up the hill quite fast carrying lots of kit, then sitting or standing around somewhere exposed for a fair length of time - a number of hours if it's a rescue team practice.

So...
- needs to be cut to fit over a fair deal of clothing - typically at least base layer or two with a Paramo Velez over the top
- needs a hood that'll fit over helmet
- needs to be pretty warm & lofty, not one of the thinner jackets
- needs to give some access to harness (enough to be able to clip into belay, but I'm unlikely to be trying to access gear loops whilst precariously balanced on the lead)
- would be good if it packed into itself and clipped onto harness, but I can always sort a seperate bag for this
- reasonably easy to open up and lose some heat, as once it's on there's often not much chance to stop and take it off until down in valley - full zip rather than smock?
- needs to cope OK with damp British weather
- and, probably most likely to fit if it comes in a women's fit, as if I go large enough in a men's to fit at hip level, there's a load of spare space round chest to lose heat from. (I'm usually a women's small)

Paramo Torres stuff is possibility, but it's only in unisex sizing and the XS is still fairly roomy. And it's a smock, which I think has more disadvantages than advantages, but might work.

But what else?

I've used a down jacket with water resistent outer shell very happily a few times this winter, but would prefer a synthetic version for when it's not so far below freezing and getting damp is an issue....
Siward on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn: Well I have a DAS parka which I think fulfills all of the above save for packing into itself. I've had it about three years now and always carry it with me if its cold. Full, double ended zip and cut large enough to just throw over everything when needed.
galpinos - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn:

It depends on how lofty/warm (and consequently how bulky) you are after but Iíd suggest for Mountain equipment either:

Womens Alpamayo Jacket - http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/the_gear/clothing/insulation/womens_alpamayo_jacket_---282/

Ladies version of the well respected Fitzroy. Ticks all your boxes bar the packs into a pocket but it does, I believe, come with a stuff sack.

Or:

Womenís Citadel Jacket - http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/the_gear/clothing/insulation/womens_citadel_jacket---719/

As above but twice as thick and bombproof.
Carolyn - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn:

Cheers for the suggestions. I definitely err towards the thicker end of things as I feel the cold - ME Women's Citadel looks like a good possibility (if I can find anywhere that stocks it).
Carolyn - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Siward:

That's Patagonia, right?
galpinos - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn:

The DAS is Patagonia. It has a very boxy cut, especially compared to a Rab or ME Jacket.

Patagonia are re-vamping their DAS, nanopuff and maybe micropuff for next season for a more fitted style so either wait for next seasons stuff or grab yourself a boxy bargain this summer if that's what you're after.

Re the women's Citadel, if you phone ME I'm sure they'll point you in the direction of a stockist.
In reply to Carolyn: The Citadels are pretty "kick ass" for the want of a better description but they are BIG and bulky. I think mine in stuff sack would be too big to hang of my harness. Micro rucksacks are the way to go though for multipitching in cold weather: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=168429

But overall I think the Citadel is probably the warmest jacket I've ever tried. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4444
Carolyn - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn:

OK, a few more questions.....what's the difference between the DAS and the micro puff? Can't find them both on the same site, even Patagonia's. Boxy is likely fine over layers, so will look out for bargains, cheers.

Toby, what's the pack size like? It doesn't necessarily need to hang off harness for rescue team stuff, it can clip onto whatever piece of kit's on my back or squish into some of them. Or be in small rucsac worn loose over rope bag, etc. More a case of often not taking a lot of personal kit, so needing options to carry it on something else.
Nath93 - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn: In terms of packing belay jackets, i prefer to get a durable plastic bag or bin liner and put it in that. Means you can squeesh it down into all the spare nooks and ctrannies of your rucksack while keeping it water tight from the outside.
GrendeI on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn: Have a look at the Arc'teryx Kappa Hoody

Pretty much checks every box! But will need a stuff sack for packing small, which it will do.

No one said perfect would be cheap ;)

Alternatively you can check out the Fisson LT which is waterproof, has pit zips but is unisex so not really a women's cut.
spearing05 - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn: Does anyone on your team have the MREW issued ME Fitzroy/ladies equivelent? Love mine and want to get one myself for when I'm out playing
Carolyn - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to spearing05:

No, but I might be able to find one to try in a neighbouring team, not sure which teams have them.
galpinos - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn:
> (In reply to Carolyn)
>
> OK, a few more questions.....what's the difference between the DAS and the micro puff? Can't find them both on the same site, even Patagonia's. Boxy is likely fine over layers, so will look out for bargains, cheers.

Micropuff - 100g Primaloft Sport (all over I think)
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-micro-puff-hoody?p=83988-1-277

DAS Parka Ė 120g Primaloft Synergy all over with additional 60g Primaloft One on core/chest/back area
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-das-parka?p=84110-0-288

If youíre in an MR Team, donít you get an ME discount?
Carolyn - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to galpinos:

Cheers, that's really helpful.

Quite possibly on the ME discount - I'm pretty good at getting discount on a number of counts ;-)
m0unt41n on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn: Ditto comment about the Fitzroy and I thought it was all teams in E&W got the MR Fitzroy.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn:

Try hangar 18 down jackets. I've been using mine for 2 years and its been great. They are having a 50% off sale too this weekend.

Www.h18orr.com
Carolyn - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to m0unt41n:
> (In reply to Carolyn) Ditto comment about the Fitzroy and I thought it was all teams in E&W got the MR Fitzroy.

All E&W teams were offered it, but not all teams took up the offer. I'll see if I can find one to try, though.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dino Dave - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carolyn: Maybe have a look at the Montane Women's Flux. I've got the men's version and I can safely say its nice and toasty and a bit cheaper than the Fitzroy. Never tried the Fitzroy so I can't compare though.

http://www.montane.co.uk/range/women/insulation/flux-jacket

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