/ How to make drytooling classic routes acceptable
How hard would it be to make picks/crampons out of extremely tough plastic, attach them, and then dry tool in a non-damaging way?
Sorry for the simplistic nature of what I'm saying, I just don't understand it.
Any reason to not just have anyone dry tooling in climbing shoes instead?
Just putting popcorn into microwave as this should be a corker.
I'm sure I saw some plastic ice picks at an outdoor shop in Barcelona. I think they were made by Grivel and were yellow. I assumed they were for practicing with ice axes indoors.
> Just putting popcorn into microwave as this should be a corker.
Can't see why. Seems logical to me, dry tooling damages rock. Surely it's worth looking at whether picks and crampons can be created from something that won't damage rock? Maybe some form of perspex? Would be better for training than those rubber hoopey things on sticks I've seen people using indoors...
What's the advantage of replacing the whole pick/crampon with a plastic one compared to putting a plastic sleeve over the part of the normal metal one that touches the rock?
Could call it the Picdom with a drytooling campaign encouraging people to always use protection
Honest question, axes wouldn't damage rock, aside from torquing because of the increased lever arm, any more than clean aid would it?
What you need is a material that behaves just like skin, like putting an artificial hooked finger on each pick.
> What you need is a material that behaves just like skin, like putting an artificial hooked finger on each pick.
Radical thought I know but how about a real finger attached to a hand...
good point well made.
Such blatant sexism!
Bollocks, it started out as a training aid and then changed into a sport in it's own right. Errm, sport climbing anyone?
If you do a quick google images search for "girls dry tooling", you will see loads of girls at it.
and not all on climbing websites either
You would also need to match up the properties of the plastic with the axe metal. Otherwise it would wear faster in certain places. Then break on you. Anyone mechanical eng know if there is a plastic that could take the forces on a pick. Say maybe >3.5KN. That may not be correct for a T pick, i cant remember. It will prob bend too much. I am not a mech eng, so i dont know much about materials.
Anyway back to google-ing girls drytooling.
I suppose if we look at the big picture we have to decide if dry tooling is for winter 'training' or as a sport in its own right. If we decide it is training then any adaptions to pick design will be counter productive as you won't be training with the same tool as the tool you be using on the routes your are supposed to be training for. If on the other hand we decide we are dry tooling for sport in its own right, then crags such as White Goods already provide the rock to dry tool on and no pick adaptions are nessesary. In addition to White Goods, other crags can/may become available too but alas, after the Denham tooling incident last year the BMC area meet invited any climbers interested in developing a crag to put forward their suggestions for discussion. No climbers took up the offer.
Next problem please.
No-one suggested anything at the time but at a later meeting a question was asked if it would be OK to use a vegetated, currently unused and back-to-nature wall in Troy Quarry for dry tooling. The feedback over a couple of meetings was that it was basically considered acceptable as long as they avoided a specified area with some boulder problems of current interest. I have not heard any more since then.
I think its a perfect answer to the OP question too, Loads of choss pits to explore and hopefully for the toolers to create ther own classics
Elsewhere on the site
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
Over the years I've been asked many times about work as a Rope Access technician, often by Instructors and Guides working for... Read more
Make the most of this months HALF PRICE OFFER on the Five Ten Guide Tennie Mid!! Designed as a hybrid approach and... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more