/ Boreal Jokers

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AdCo82 on 01 Apr 2013
Are these only really suitable for beginner's or a good all round shoe?
Chay - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: I used them mainly for easy multi-pitch when I had them, I once climbed E1 5c in them on slate a few years ago (I forgot my technical shoes)- they felt okay, even on the lead.

Brilliant shoes, handle VS/HVS happily.

Steve nevers on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas:

They are pretty crap imho.

Had a pair for about 5 months, they are comfy,but they are also rounded, have a poor edge that likes to roll on anything small, and the rubbers a bit crap.

I'd spend the extra Ģ10-20 on shoes and get something better if i was you.
mattrm - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas:

I've found them to be a good comfy all round shoe. Happily climbed 6a/V2/HVS in them. Good price too.
richparry - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas:

I've done quite a few E3's in mine and never felt they were holding me back.
Chay - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: imo, the shoe will out climb the climber in most cases - I stand by that for most shoes.
Clay C - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas:

I've had Boreal Jokers as my only pair of rock shoes for well over a year now. Comfy enough for long trad routes, but not had any problems climbing up to E1 with them. I'll probably get another pair (or something similar) when i need to replace them because i can't justify having numerous pairs of rock shoes given i don't climb that hard.
branston771 on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: I second 'Chay'. I've watched Ian Vickers climb 8A in lace up jokers and he uses them when he does all his setting. He was pictured (Climb Mag) doing E6/7 Sea Cliffs in Ireland few years back as well. As long as they fit well then they will be fine.
Steve nevers on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: Ah might be the difference, i'm talking the joker plus, different construction to the standard joker apparently.
dgp - on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to branston771: Another vote to support comments
Steve nevers on 01 Apr 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: I'll point out i have a weird shaped foot though so the problems i have with the shoe may be down to my personal fit. Seems a lot of people have enoyed the shoe so don't let my bad experiences but you off.

Best advice i reckon is go and try a few (few meaning shedloads) pairs of rock shoes on and get the ones that are the best fit for you. Thats a lot more important than any brands/rubber/etc.
kingofthering on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to Chay:
> (In reply to An Triubhas) imo, the shoe will out climb the climber in most cases - I stand by that for most shoes.

Definitley. there are to much gym-heros bouldering 5A in solutions out there.
markus691 on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to kingofthering:
As one of them (well, not wearing LS Solutions but "too good" shoes): How's that any of your business?
I climb marginally harder, am enjoying my footwork more, believe they make it easier to improve my footwork and can afford them. What about this is "too much" for you?
kingofthering on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to markus691:
> (In reply to kingofthering)

> I climb marginally harder, am enjoying my footwork more, believe they make it easier to improve my footwork and can afford them. What about this is "too much" for you?


Donīt know a thing about you and wasnīt talking to you.
but when i watch those typical (obvious) beginners wearing solution who are putting them on in the lockerroom and walking anround in them
(even on the toilet. yuck. thats how cholera is spread guys) i donīt see a way they could improve their footwork since they are obviously way too big.
And i see a lot more of "those" than people wearing such expensive shoes in a proper size and really using them.
The people who have a little experience are in general smart enough to wear something way longer lasting with more than 3,5mm rubber on it. Everyone who is climbing outdoors more than once a month notices that in the gym the shoes donīt really matter because even the worst indoor footholds are really good and friction is ass. After the second indoorroute your sole will be full of dirt and magnesia so the difference between that xs grip 2/Edge or stealth-xyzz rubber wonīt be noticable at all.
I donīt know how often you climb indoors but a normal shoe with 4mm (or 4,2) lasts about 1 1/2 month for me. not because of sloppy footwork just because i climb 4 to 5 times a week.
that would be 4 pairs of solutions a year (given that you resole every pair at least once) that would be € 540 a year without the resoles (640 with resoles).
I think buying cheap shoes and get a annual ticket for your local gym would get you way further in your climbing.

Itīs like those mountainbike-managers who earn 8k a month and think they need a carbon-fully for commuting.

neuromancer - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to kingofthering:

> yadda yadda yadda

Rich people.

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