/ Yosemite, Tuolumne, Red Rocks in August

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Smelly Fox - on 03 May 2013
Myself and a few friends are heading to the above destinations in August. I am aware this is not the best time to be climbing there due to the epic heat!

Could anyone recommend any single day free climbs in the 5.9 to 5.10c range that are in the shade most of the day, and avoid the crowds?

I have the Supertopo guides Yosemite Free Climbs, Tuolumne Medows Free climbs and Red Rocks.

Thanks in advance!

Trist
In reply to Smelly Fox:

August is prime time for Tuolomne, you can climb there to get used to the heat then nip down to the Valley when attuned.


Chris
jon on 03 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

Last year in mid-September we had to wait for Tuolumne routes to come into the sun. As Chris says, August is prime time for Tuolumne. There are so many classics there it makes recommendations difficult. Lucky Streaks on Fairview is fantastic as are the routes on the west side of DAFF Dome - Bombs over Tokyo (P1), West Crack, Blown Away and Cresent Arch. However, avoiding crowds... not sure.
dan bulman - on 03 May 2013
another vote for tuolumne. the rock in the valley can be too hot to touch. worth a climb there though in the evening.
Smelly Fox - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
OK thanks. I take it tuolumne is a bit higher alltitude then?

I appreciate the advice, we only have a few days at each venue so I'm trying to be as orginised as possible to avoid faff.

Trist
Robert Durran - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

It might be a tad hot at Red Rocks!
In reply to Smelly Fox:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> OK thanks. I take it tuolumne is a bit higher alltitude then?
>
> I appreciate the advice, we only have a few days at each venue so I'm trying to be as orginised as possible to avoid faff.
>
> Trist

The Tuolomne campsite is around 8500' iirc (with Yosemite around 3500') - the biggest problem is usually is puffing and blowing rather than the heat!

Recommended routes: Oz, Crescent Arch, Ceibola, Fairview Regular Rt, Blues Riff, South Crack ...... and loads more.

Chris
jon on 03 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Here's Nipper on Ciebola a lifetime ago: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=108174
Smelly Fox - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to Smelly Fox)
>
> It might be a tad hot at Red Rocks!

Yeah I've been before in May and I was very hot then! At least the Black Coridoor should be in the shade.

Its the multipitching I'm keen for though if there are any in the morning/afternoon shade.

Trist
Smelly Fox - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thanks again!

Trist
Michael Ryan - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

avoid Red Rock....

also consider Shuteye Ridge and area....outside Yosemite

http://www.climbing.com/route/wake-up-call/

Check out the images at the base of this page: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/shuteye-ridge/108046101

Map: http://www.climbingweather.com/California/Shuteye-Ridge/map
In reply to jon:

Binky following me up it at around the same time at a guess:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=219115


Chris
jon on 03 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I'd say that was only half a lifetime ago from the Mambas. Here's H a few years before, same place but cheaper camera! http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=159799
Jonny2vests - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

There's plenty of big shady stuff at RR, but the walk in alone will kill you, never mind ambient temperature. Another vote for Tuolumne.
Christheclimber - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

Tuolumne will be great in August but too hot in the Valley.

Regular Route on Fairview Dome, Direct North West Face on Lembert, Cry in time again on Lembert, Little Sheba on the Lamb?, Darth Vader's Revenge on Low Profile Dome, Sticks and Stones on Medlicott were all good as I remember. Also remember some sports routes on East Cottage being fun but short including Orange Plasma.
Smelly Fox - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Christheclimber:

Thanks again for the tips everyone!

Trist
rpc on 03 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

North facing multipitch in RR is usually climbable even in summer. Eg Crimson Chrysalis (8P 5.8), Epinephrine (14P 5.9), many great lines on Black Velvet Wall. No crowds there in the summer (keep in mind that the campground used to be closed in summer).
eddy-on-the-rocks - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox: Have you considered doing the regular route on half dome. It's north facing, and although quite tough in a day, you can do it in two with minimal bivy gear and I guarantee you'd have a memorable experience. Enjoy your trip.
Enty - on 03 May 2013
In reply to eddy-on-the-rocks:
> (In reply to Smelly Fox) Have you considered doing the regular route on half dome. It's north facing, and although quite tough in a day, you can do it in two with minimal bivy gear and I guarantee you'd have a memorable experience. Enjoy your trip.

Good call - your profile indicates that you're well capable of this.

E
Smelly Fox - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Enty:
I would love too, but the people I'm with are more keen to spend the night in a nice lodge with a shower and good food than a night on the wall ;-)

Another trip maybe.

Cheers

Trist
rgold - on 10 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

Climb in Red Rocks in August and you'll confirm the old adage about mad dogs and Englishmen. It is brutally hot---you'll earn your moniker. Quite a few of the routes in the canyons are in the shade, but you still have to walk there and back in full sun in 104 degree (F) temperatures. Start at or before dawn and if you're done before sunset, you might think about a siesta before hiking out. Fail to carry enough water and you could be in serious trouble.

I think all the locals head up to Mount Charleston in the summer. It's 45 minutes North of Vegas and 6,000 feet higher; it isn't the desert and temps are bearable (20 degrees coooler than Vegas during the day).

Limestone sport climbing, starting at 5.10. Have a look at http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mt-charleston/105850026 . The guidebook is called Islands in the Sky, by Randy Leavitt, Dan McQuad and Mick Ryan. You can pick it up at the local shop, Desert Rock Sports http://desertrocksportslv.com/index.html .

But really. Stick with the Sierra high country. You've got everything from alpine scrambles to towering granite walls with 5.12 routes on them, and some epic peak traverses at various levels of difficulty. It's nuts to abandon that for the desert oven of Vegas in August.
sparkass - on 10 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

Toulumne and the valley should be fine if you follow the good advice above. Red Rocks is going to be horrible due to the heat - I can highly recommend the Needles in Sequoia as an alternative - perfect season and THE best free climbing I have done in the US - look it up!
rgold - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

Here are some local opinions and suggestions about climbing at Red Rocks in the summer:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/red-rocks-in-the-summer/108146169
rgold - on 18 May 2013
In reply to rgold:

And here are some more, with route recommendations and general cautions. One of the points, which I think important, is that people unused to the desert (i.e. pasty-faced Brits who primarily climb in all-day drizzles) are going to have more trouble with the heat than home-fried locals, which means that listening to local advice could be a bit misleading.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/red-rocks-route-advice-andor-partners-728-731/108147753
estivoautumnal - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:

Where are you coming from? Yosemite can be hot in August but it's bearable. If you are from Shetland it will be toasty. However if you are flying over on the back of a cragging trip in France it will probably be ok.

Also end of Aug is very different from beginning. 10 degrees cooler and Yosemite and Red Rocks are perfect at the end of the month. Toulumne is getting cold at nights at the end of the month.
Offwidth - on 18 May 2013
In reply to estivoautumnal:

Red Rocks is still way from perfect at the end of August. Even when the sierras bomb out under early snow in September, JT is a better bet (any rain at Red Rocks and you shouldn't be climbing). Frankly unless the OP is a desert freak he's wasting his time driving down there and lots of stuff nearby will be in much better nick in the high sierra just as rgold points out.
Smelly Fox - on 18 May 2013
In reply to everyone:

Thanks again for the info everyone.

As far as the heat goes, I'm working in the desert of northern Kenya at the moment so I'm pretty well acclimatised (although not everyone in my party will be).

We will see how it goes, it would be nice to do a long route a day, but I am also keen for cragging. I am pretty keen to plan as well as possible so as to make the most of time.

My guidbooks arrived the evening before I had to go to work again, so I'll check them out with the advise I've given from you folks when I get home.

Cheers

Trist
Squamish - on 26 May 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox:
Tris, come to Squamish instead, or the northern cascades.
Probably a better option would be the sierra's.

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tjekel - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to Smelly Fox: tuolumne is ok that time of the year, and temperatures should allow for climbing in the sun. Fairview regular might fit the bill, as m.ight several lembert nw outings. Red rocks is shade only, shadow wall is a bit easier than your range but awesome.

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