/ Looking for a comfortable all day shoe

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tonto169 - on 27 May 2013
Hey Chaps,

I had a quick look through the forum but couldn't see anything and was wondering if anyone could help.

I am spending a lot of time climbing with some friends who are just getting into the sport; so doing a lot of climbs with them at the lower end of the grades. I am trashing my spare shoes and they are all a little bit two aggressive and uncomfortable for all day and easier climbs.

i was wondering if anyone could recommend a good pair of all day shoes I should look at getting. I'm guessing most beginner shoe have a more comfortable feel but I seem to remember Scarpa making a specialist shoe which almost looked like an approach shoe..

Cheers for any advice you might have!
WILLS - on 27 May 2013
In reply to tonto169: I use the evolve bandit. Good enough to wear all day and climb HVS or 6a+ on slate.
andymac - on 27 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:

I now wear Saloman speedcross shoes when climbing ,but would not wear them allday as the treads would get needlessly worn.

I spotted some LaSportiva Crosslites a few weeks back in a local shop which were reduced to 60 ,so grabbed a pair .nothing to lose .

Not La Sportivas finest ,but they are fine.

Anyway ,theres a huge choice available in the approach shoe market these days.

Inov8 look alright


snoop6060 - on 27 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=548893&v

I ended up getting the 5.10 hueco which I'm kinda of regretting. Mega comfortable but properly rubbish for standing on anything small. And not great for smearing. Ace for super easy stuff tho.

In reply to snoop6060: I'd second the Hueco as the most comfy shoe I've ever owned. Fine at E1 and F6a+ which is about my limit these days but I'm sure they'd be OK on a grade or two harder.
Bloodfire - on 28 May 2013
In reply to tonto169: don't the five ten guide tennie really work for this kinda stuff? I've been looking at getting a pair for this purpose.
Camm on 28 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:
I tend to second people on grit in my innov8 approach shoes, makes seconding very fun! They're a bit loose and falling apart but there's a good picture of my doing a drop knee in them somewhere haha

I use evolv bandits more for long periods of time and they're a little too small, worth noting when I first had them I had to take them off straight away after a short single pitch climb, now I use them mutli-pitch.
Camm on 28 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:
The addidas approach shoes look good, some have got good rubber on, some haven't, I want some.
GrahamD - on 28 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:

I find wearing socks improves comfort no end.
Muel - on 28 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:

I have both 5.10 Newtons and Spires, both are very comfortable. The Newton is a fair bit stiffer though so the fit is more crucial. The Spires are less comfortable to climb in (as they're rather bendy), but for sitting around belaying in, I just forget they're there.

I also wear thin trainer liner style socks, which massively improves things.
Muel - on 28 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:

It's worth noting by the way that I'm 15 stone so the stiffness of the Newtons feels normal, whereas someone lighter might find them a little too stiff.

Anyway, I'd recommend the Spires for definite.
Martin Bennett - on 28 May 2013
In reply to Muel:
> (In reply to tonto169)
>
> It's worth noting by the way that I'm 15 stone so the stiffness of the Newtons feels normal, whereas someone lighter might find them a little too stiff.
>
> Anyway, I'd recommend the Spires for definite.

Don't worry about stiffness in Newtons - I'm just a "normal" sort of 12 stone and am on my third pair of Newtons - I swear by them; the stiffness when new wears off as the fairly thick sole thins and they mould to your foot shape really well.
I can also endorse Muel's advice about Spires - I'm on my third pair of those as well!
By the way, despite being from the same manufacturer there's a World of difference in sizing. I take a 42 or 42.5 in street shoes and the same in Spires, but 43/43.5 in Newtons.

Come to think of it I have too many shoes - if you can use a Spire in 42.5 I've a very little used pair we could negotiate a price for?

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shark - on 28 May 2013
In reply to tonto169:


I've found the Evolv Bandits to be the most comfortable all day shoe since the Five Ten Lynx.

They also perform quite well and are quite often on offer as they don't seem to be that popular.

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