/ which carabiner?
I need to buy a few carabiners. I climb with a BD ATC and Kong Slyde, and I'm using krabs from friends.
- HMS: I was thinking about a screwgate DMM Boa, 30kN Boa, 30kN Antivibe Boa, Petzl William, or?
- ATC: what model D shape for the ATC?
- Slyde: what for the Slyde?
On the blog of Mr Kirkpatrick, we can read that 2 BIG HMS + 1 D-shape carabiner should be enough; however we should avoid using the HMS on a runner/sling... (it gets confusing)... So what should I buy?
When using with a HMS i personally prefer a Petzl Willem Ball lock. Using a HMS knot on a multipitch you sometimes have the rope rubbing against the screw. The ball lock seams to be the safest solution for this.
When using with a tube style belay device (ATC, reverso, etc) i prefer a DMM belaymaster. The plastic clip prevents rotating of the biner and prevent the screw from coming undone. Allowing you to focus on your climber, instead of messing with you biner and belay device.
Where do you use the Kong Slyde for?
Personally I don't find much use for large screw gates, at belays I attach ropes back to my self using figure of eights on a bight to my tie in loop. Also with the advent of super light screw gates I find there is less reason to carry snap gates over screw gates.
On single pitch I typically carry three WC neon screw gates (my cams and hexes are already racked individually on very light phantom wire gates) and I carry no snap gates that aren't attached to other gear. On multi-pitch I'll carry six neon screw gates and a few snap gates as its not a great plan to use your runners or gear biners on the belay as it increases faff / decreases the kit for the next pitch.
As my cams and hexes are extend-able (dragons / 4cus / torque nuts) I often find I can cut down on extenders, also if I end up using my screw gates on the pitch I'll just use the snap gates on my extenders, cams or hexes to build the belay out of.
Sometimes on easier multipitch I'll rack my cams and hexes in bunches on one snap gate, in this case I'll carry a few extra snap gates linked together. I find this can mean faster changeovers on stances.
Unless I was doing something unusual *requiring* more locking krabs I'd personally go for a medium sized HMS (for belaying) and a couple of lightweight D-shaped or mini-HMS types (wider head takes 2 hitches) at most. Standard screw types are my preference over fancy twist-locking types. To be honest that's more than I routinely carry.
Brand-wise they're much of a muchness but I like the fact DMM manufacture in Wales.
Personally for the same weight (ish) I'd preffer to carry 3 lightweight screw gates, a lightweight HMS and a spare belay plate than the above. I'd much prefer to belay off a belay plate if I dropped one (and I can belay using an italian hitch on neons its just not that great) and I have 1 more actual screw gates for use on the route. That said I have never actually dropped a belay plate!
@ tjin: below a good link that shows how to use de Slyde. Make sure to use a >9mm rope (i use a Beal Joker 9.1mm)
@ Gridnorth: do you prefer Petzl over DMM? what would be the equivalent in DMM?
At the end of the day a krab is a krab. Whether one type is better than another is basically down to personal preference. Most of my krabs are DMM, but I also have some BD, WC, Petzl, Simond and Kong krabs. I have no real brand preference, but do tend to slightly favour DMM due to the Welsh connection.
FWIW, either just get what feels right, or what's cheapest (yet still fit for purpose) would be my advice.
Sadly enough, I do have a favourite karabiner. The Wild Country Synergy. Pretty sure it's just a standard 'biner but it just feels big strong and secure (even though I know that my smaller, lightweight DMM 'biner is rated to higher strengths).
My advice: Get out and feel 'em!
It's not a secret; branding and manufacturing are often two completely separate things. This does not necessarily have an impact on quality and it definitely does not have an impact on safety.
However, the likes of DMM, Kong, Grivel, Climbing Technology and others (not only them, Google will give you all the answers), that is, those who manufacture most or all of their gear "under one roof" and "at home" deserve praise in my opinion.
As a climber, it means a lot to me knowing that someone as taken pride in the making of the gear I trust my life on, rather than delegating somebody else, maybe in the far east. As a (small) retailer it makes a lot of difference when I walk into a working factory rather than a silent warehouse.
Having said that, it goes without saying that at the end of the day everyone is free to buy whatever he feels it's fit to purpose ;-)
I love my Boa, and I use DMM Shadow screwgates which are perfect unless you need to put more than one clovehitch in. I have a BD Rocklock, useful for emergencys but without I-beam it does feel very beefy... But I second the others, just get what's on sale. A biner is a biner
Oh, and don't worry about the 30kn Boa. If you're generating even half those forces you probably shouldnt be on the rock
I've been doing OK wandering around with the following:
Petzl attache 3d - light, very nice, less turns than many to lock/ unlock.
Wild country neons - very small and light, can't fit much on them. Prefer alpine butterfly to clove hitches on them.
DMM belay master 2 - nice Belay biner but PITA to clip to your gear loops if you like the plastic gate closed.
Magneto Rocklock - only autolocker that I thought was an improvement on screw gates. Commonly used as my belay biner as its faster to operate. Quite heavy though.
I know hwo to use a Slyde, but why would you need one? Just use the rope?!
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