/ Pimp my crevasse rescue
I'm sure there are LOTS of opinions out there in UKC-land, and I'd be happy to hear them!
dunno, 2 or 3 round-bar krabs plus some prussicks is hard to beat for alpine stuff.
easy to apply one handed, can be released under load easily, can be replaced easily, dont freeze up, minimal weight, multi-functional, minimal price.
if this is all about shiny new trinkets tho a micro traxion and and reveolvers is hard to beat, or really play the game and get a dedicated set up from mammut or petzl - comes in a special bag and everything!
I use a Petzl ultralegere roll on an oval screwgate, plus a Kong Duck (similar to ropeman) instead of the tibloc.
The Duck is not much heavier than a tibloc, but much more versatile. The ultralegere weighs almost nothing, and the oval screwgate replaces a standard one from the rock rack, so no added weight.
Whichever you choose make sure you practise and know how to improvise should you lose/drop your favourite gadget.
Mammut Resc You?
Micro traxion and a ropeman. Easiest set up ever.
That was the thing that sprang to my mind when I saw the thread title - "Pimp my crevasse rescue" implies something flashy. ;o)
microtraxion at the anchor end and ropeman2 with snapgate revolver at the other end.
Yes, but that way is adding friction to your system and anymore friction is what you don't want. Either a ropeman or a micro traxion you don't need both plus a couple of revolver crabs is enough for most situations.
We have just bought Kong ducks after trying them out on an alpine skills course. I found them much less of a struggle when hauling than a prusik (I am weedy and have very little upper body strength and my partners are heavier than me). We got ours from here :
They are also about to have at least one in stock as they sent us one too many after being back ordered and I have just put it in the post back to them :)
Winter: I use a micro-traxion at the anchor and a prusik on the crevasse end with a wire gate revolver attached to it. In my opinion it's the best trade-off between weight and ease of use.
Summer: I would tend to go with 2 prusiks and no pulleys. My main reason for this is that I'd normally be doing something involving some rock, and would thus already have a prusik for abseils. In that situation, the only equipment taken solely for crevasse rescue would be 1 prusik.
> In that situation, the only equipment taken solely for crevasse rescue would be 1 prusik.
Dude your just awesome!!!Only one prusik for crevasse rescue.........
The best advice i heard about crevasse rescue I heardd was from Pete cliff 12 summers ago.
Don't fall in, put knots in rope to ensure only one of you ends up going down. The person on surface starts shouting/waving/phones.
Your in the alps, people are about. A rescue from the surface involves putting the faller onto a belay you've just built while stopping your mate going in any further. How good was your last buries axe belay? in wet snow? If it fails your screwed.
Give your mate time to get out before trying anything.
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