/ Pimp my crevasse rescue

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d80f0u on 04 Jun 2013
Thinking of investing in something a bit more advanced than a couple of prussik loops, but having difficulty weighing up the pros and cons of a ropeman & revolver combo / tibloc & seperate pulley / micro traxion or similar.

I'm sure there are LOTS of opinions out there in UKC-land, and I'd be happy to hear them!

Ben
ice.solo - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u:

dunno, 2 or 3 round-bar krabs plus some prussicks is hard to beat for alpine stuff.

easy to apply one handed, can be released under load easily, can be replaced easily, dont freeze up, minimal weight, multi-functional, minimal price.

if this is all about shiny new trinkets tho a micro traxion and and reveolvers is hard to beat, or really play the game and get a dedicated set up from mammut or petzl - comes in a special bag and everything!
Robbo1 - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u: WC ropeman attached to the anchor and then prussik + DMM revolver on the rope is my set-up, which seems to work well. The ropeman means you don't have to worry as much about the prussik locking off.
The Ex-Engineer - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u: Prussiks, tibloc & revolver. If you know what you are doing (and want a strictly one way haul) you can rig your tibloc on the krab at the anchor. The revolver then adds a small amount of efficiency to your set-up.
cb294 - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u:

I use a Petzl ultralegere roll on an oval screwgate, plus a Kong Duck (similar to ropeman) instead of the tibloc.

The Duck is not much heavier than a tibloc, but much more versatile. The ultralegere weighs almost nothing, and the oval screwgate replaces a standard one from the rock rack, so no added weight.

CB
EwanR on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u: For a traditional pulley to pull somebody out of a hole when either/all are fine. For self rescue (which is a lot faster than waiting for help from above) then a micro-traxion is great especially for the getting past the lip of the crevasse part. It's perfectly possible to make an alpine clutch out of two carabiners for this but it's far less efficient and easier to make mistakes.

Whichever you choose make sure you practise and know how to improvise should you lose/drop your favourite gadget.
purplemonkeyelephant - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u:

Mammut Resc You?
Kid Spatula - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u:

Micro traxion and a ropeman. Easiest set up ever.
deepsoup - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:
> Mammut Resc You?

http://www.ellis-brigham.com/products/RescYou/11199
That was the thing that sprang to my mind when I saw the thread title - "Pimp my crevasse rescue" implies something flashy. ;o)


carl_123 - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u:

microtraxion at the anchor end and ropeman2 with snapgate revolver at the other end.
OwenM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to EwanR:
> It's perfectly possible to make an alpine clutch out of two carabiners for this but it's far less efficient and easier to make mistakes.


Yes, but that way is adding friction to your system and anymore friction is what you don't want. Either a ropeman or a micro traxion you don't need both plus a couple of revolver crabs is enough for most situations.
paulmck - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u: Just stick with the prussiks. They can be used for other things as well such as backing up an abseil. The risk is that you end up carrying stuff that can only be used for crevasse rescue and nothing else which ends up adding weight to your pack.
d80f0u on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u: Thanks for everyone's thoughts so far. This is becoming slightly academic, but what about a tibloc at the anchor end? Is that feasible or would it end up in the wrong orientation? As for the Kong duck, I like the look of it but can't actually find one for sale anywhere!
syv_k - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u:

We have just bought Kong ducks after trying them out on an alpine skills course. I found them much less of a struggle when hauling than a prusik (I am weedy and have very little upper body strength and my partners are heavier than me). We got ours from here :

http://www.starlessriver.com/shop/ascenders/kong_duck

They are also about to have at least one in stock as they sent us one too many after being back ordered and I have just put it in the post back to them :)
tjhare1 - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to d80f0u:
Winter: I use a micro-traxion at the anchor and a prusik on the crevasse end with a wire gate revolver attached to it. In my opinion it's the best trade-off between weight and ease of use.
Summer: I would tend to go with 2 prusiks and no pulleys. My main reason for this is that I'd normally be doing something involving some rock, and would thus already have a prusik for abseils. In that situation, the only equipment taken solely for crevasse rescue would be 1 prusik.
Up High on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to tjhare1:
> (In reply to d80f0u)
> In that situation, the only equipment taken solely for crevasse rescue would be 1 prusik.

Dude your just awesome!!!Only one prusik for crevasse rescue.........
ads.ukclimbing.com
alasdair19 on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to Up High: 60cm dyneema slings make excellent improvised prussiks.

The best advice i heard about crevasse rescue I heardd was from Pete cliff 12 summers ago.

Don't fall in, put knots in rope to ensure only one of you ends up going down. The person on surface starts shouting/waving/phones.

Your in the alps, people are about. A rescue from the surface involves putting the faller onto a belay you've just built while stopping your mate going in any further. How good was your last buries axe belay? in wet snow? If it fails your screwed.

Give your mate time to get out before trying anything.

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