/ Grigri 2 and rope discolouration

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kos_os - on 05 Jun 2013
I've been using my grigri 2 frequently for the past 6 months with the same rope (Edelrid Python) and the rope is becoming blackened on the same half all the way along (does that make sense?!). It seems pretty clear the rope sits the same way in the GriGri each time I'm lowering, one side against the black plastic, which is where the rope is discoloured. Crap rope? time for a replacement?!

Has anyone else had this problem with the grigri 2? the original grigri is all metal from what i remember, so wouldn't cause this problem.
I guess it's not a major problem, just a pain if i want to find the mid mark, and leaves your hands really grubby when belaying. Tried to wash it, but it doensn't come off all that easily.


jon on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to kos_os:

> the original grigri is all metal from what i remember, so wouldn't cause this problem.

Hmmm, so Grigri 2s are plastic?
kos_os - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to kos_os: part plastic, yes.

you can see the black section on the 5th photo in on the link, that's the plastic i'm referring to...

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belay-devices/grigri
jon on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to kos_os:

It's more complicated than you think. I only have an original Grigri. My two current ropes are a Beal Stinger and a Simond (Decathlon) rope. The Simond is absolutely clean but the Beal is filthy, just like yours, half of it. They are about the same age, a couple of years. The problem is aluminium - karabiners/quickdraws and the little bit of the Grigri that the rope runs over. You'd think that the more abrasive the rope the dirtier it'd become and the opposite for a very smooth rope. In fact the Simond which is clean is about the roughest rope I've ever owned and the Beal which is dirty is very smooth. I can't explain that, but it shows that the rope itself has some bearing on this problem. The discolouration you describe being on one half of the rope only is normal and is due to the rope's 'memory'.
Craig Geddes - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to kos_os: Jon has the straight of this one.
James Malloch - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to kos_os: I've noticed this too on both my ropes. Guessing it wont have any adverse effects?
Craig Geddes - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to James Malloch: extremely long term this is what cause ropes to take on a somewhat oval profile towards the end of their life but this happens regardless of the belay device used in my experience.
Zebdi - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to kos_os:

grigri2 seems to be made of softer metal than the original version. I bought mine two years ago and I've already noticed significant wear (even a sharp edge similar to that on reverso3)on that rounded metal edge (not sure how to describe it more accurately). I've never seen that happen on older versions - not even after 10+ years of use. Has anyone else noticed that? I've no problem with discoloration of metal, but sharp edges can't be good for the rope... will post some pics later today and also mail them to Petzl...
In reply to Zebdi:
> (In reply to kos_os)
>
> grigri2 seems to be made of softer metal than the original version. I bought mine two years ago and I've already noticed significant wear (even a sharp edge similar to that on reverso3)on that rounded metal edge (not sure how to describe it more accurately). I've never seen that happen on older versions - not even after 10+ years of use. Has anyone else noticed that? I've no problem with discoloration of metal, but sharp edges can't be good for the rope... will post some pics later today and also mail them to Petzl...

Hi!

I only ever used the GriGri2 ever since it came out. Later recalled and replaced by Petzl. I think you're talking about the edge clearly visible in this picture? http://www.fuorivia.com/forum/download/file.php?id=32605 If that's the case, I was also concerned it could cause damage to the rope, but so far I have not heard or read about any official reply from Petzl. I found the GriGri2 works best with super skinny ropes only (< 9.5 mm, e.g. Mammut Serenity, Beal Joker, Millet Absolute, Tendon Master 9.2, etc.) It works with fatter ropes too, as per Petzl rating, but I suspect that edge was caused by using the GriGri2 with my 9.8 and 10 mm ropes.

Ciao!

Nic
ex0 - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to kos_os:

I have the same problem with my Python going black as well. I wondered if it was due to the dye they'd used being pressed out when the rope went under load. I use a grigri2 as well.
In reply to ex0:
> (In reply to kos_os)
>
> I have the same problem with my Python going black as well. I wondered if it was due to the dye they'd used being pressed out when the rope went under load. I use a grigri2 as well.

Hi,

All my dry treated ropes have gone black over time. The dry treatment definitely plays a role, maybe it's not the only cause, but I picked up the habit of lowering off holding the rope with a white cloth and even brand new ropes leave black marks on the cloth. If you scroll to minute 4:40 in this video (by Trango's Italian distributor) you'll see what I'm talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dko6ivG45Ko

Having said that, it's just an annoying thing, but I strongly doubt it bears any negative effect on the rope performance. As I said, it happens to brand new ropes too. It's just a sign of the dry treatment giving way I suppose.

Ciao!

Nic
Zebdi - on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to GoCragging.com:

Hi!

No, that's not what I had in mind. See this pic:
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1000413_10151612285296192_1652766647_n.jpg

I don't think use of thinner ropes would help in this case (I use Mammut Infinity 9.5). I wonder what Petzl have to say about this... will post their explanation as soon as I get it :D
UppityClimber - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to Zebdi: I wouldn't worry about it. It looks like the type of rope wear you get with most heavily used metal work. It used to happen with GriGri 1 as well.

http://www.splitterchoss.com/petzl-worn-gri-gri-photo-contest/
Zebdi - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to UppityClimber: Yeah, it's not the wear itself that bothers me the most - it's that sharp edge. If you take a closer look at both pictures, you'll see there's no sharp edge in the pic you posted. It seems all soft and rounded. I've seen such wear on my old figure 8 belay device, but no sharp edges to damage the rope. My guess is that those sharp edges are formed because the eloxation (that thin anodized layer on surface) is a bit harder than the metal beneath it. I don't know how to explain it better, hope it's clear enough :)
Hi,

FYI, I have received a reply from Petzl who confirms the rope is more rapidly wearing the side plate due to the geometry changes applied to the device in order to make it compatible with skinny ropes. The speed of wear depends more generally on several factors, but the side plate is in fact made using exactly the same material as for the old GriGri. They also advise to file down the aggressive part, but at the same time advise to scrap the GriGri2 should the wear get any worse.

This is a fair enough reply and I have nothing to say to that, other than commending the fact that they have replied (this wasn't at all a given).

I personally don't consider faster wear as an engineering/design defect. Any metal will wear out over time and it's ultimately down to the users to assess when excessive wear becomes a danger. As it always has been.

Ciao!

Nic

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