/ Troublesome Tendons

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DemRavens on 09 Jun 2013
Hi

I am very new to climbing and also very unfit. From the start of the year I have been making good progress on the fitness but not as much climb time as I want. The main reason has been a persistent ache/pain in the palm of my left hand and a tightness in that wrist.

The first injury occurrence was from a fingerboard used two years ago that was given to me from a friend due to my forearm training obsession. It took a long time to heal up and I ended up having a corticosteroid injection into the tendon. This helped but not fully.

I started climbing at the start of this year, I completed my beginners course at my local wall (undercover rock Bristol) without major problems. I did opt out of circuit board route and bouldering to keep work on tendons to a minimum. I took 2 weeks off to give extra recovery time. I went bouldering twice before attending the new climbers club. After the 2 hours I felt OK but the next day my hand was sore, I didn't climb for 6 weeks.

I'm starting to work my way back again, I find using the bouldering area and using the least overhanging/easiest holds for a very short 30 min session best as I have no climbing partner to aid me though recovery. I give a long rest(1 week) between sessions and alternate session on the wall and doing assisted pull ups on a bar.

I'm finding my hand is good, in fact even when a little tight/sore a light session helps for a day or two. It's day 3 the acke and pain return I get concerned I'm doing too much and back off doing any training the requires grip so left with CV and core training only. This has been going on now for about a month. Any advice welcome please.
woody0606 on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to DemRavens: Tendons are tricky and delicate. The best thing you can do is to find a decent sports physio.
Steve nevers on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to DemRavens:

Shell out for a session with Danny Brown if your in Bristol.

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