/ Which approach shoes?
Can anyone recommend anything?
- Sturdy enough for a walk in of a couple of miles
- Light to climb with attached to me
- Fine for easy climbing/scrambling/abseiling down chossy sea cliffs
- Good quality
- Value for money
Too many choices!! Ahhhh!
Lightweight mountain running shoes, inov and alike.
> Lightweight mountain running shoes, inov and alike.
I wear sportiva xplorers for rugged stuff, but unless its cold, long and actual low grade climbing some minimal trail shoes work well.
I'm in the same situation as the OP, thinking about going for the Guide Tennie for Cuillin stuff this summer, probably only get a few months out them anyway.
Lighter than approach shoes, more confortable, dry quite fast. When climbing with them you can't ever edge but they make up for it in friction.
I have them and quite like them, but they are indeed very bulky - I think they are actually intended as a big wall shoe rather than an approach shoe. The rounded heel is a liability on wet grass, otherwise they grip rather well on most things.
My mate paid a lot more for the mens version and absolutely swears by them. Unless you're having a difficult walk in on a big mountain route, they should fit the bill!
Fell running shoes basically. Shoes that are labelled 'approach shoes' often aren't good for walking around steep cliffs on wet grass, which is what you want in your cragging shoes. Fell running shoes with the big spikes on the bottom are great on wet grass and are very light. You can generally climb ok in them.
I would imagine any of those would be good:
Also, if you explain to Pete Bland's your location and difficulty getting to a running shop, I'm sure they wouldn't mind sending a couple of pairs so you can try them on. They're a really good shop.
re the climbing shoes, if they're that bad, you need a new pair, see what Dave Mac has to say:
Most approach shoes are pretty heavy, effectively a low cut boot in many cases. My La Sportivas are very stiff soled as well. Has anyone tried climbing in anything like the Merrill bare foot stuff.
I'm not an advocate of bare foot (sic) shoes for running, but might be good for the OP's requirements.
I was wearing mizuno wave harriers and climbing reasonably ard in them last year. Low profile trail shoes are actually quite good on rock not at all lke their big squashy road going cousins, thy usually have grippy rubber and a narrow sole which doesn't stick out from under your big toe so edging can be reasonable etc.
Tried it in 5fingers, requires super human toe strength
I think for lightness for carrying up routes fell/trail shoes like innov8s are unbeatable if you need more than flip flops for walking down etc., but for crags where I leave my shoes at the bottom I like something that stops me bashing my feet around a bit more.
I've had these for nearly a year now and used them loads - they're great for UK-like possibly damp and muddy walk ins. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4904
almost the opposite of a rock shoe with no lateral or length-wise camber, wide soft toes and soft edges.
nice for walking in tho and feel great after rock shoes, so a good choice for long walk offs.
the merrill ones seem a bit more robust and maybe nicer rubber too.
light enough to clip to a harness or even stuff in a pocket.
> Tried it in 5fingers, requires super human toe strength
The Merrell I am thinking of have a bit more support than 5fingers.
> Lightweight mountain running shoes, inov and alike.
+1. I always use my inov8 trail shoes. Great grip ambling around the crag, comfortable and dual purpose!
I sense you're erring towards somethig lighter, but I have the Scarpa Crux and find them excellent. Comfy fit for all day use and can still solo easy routes in them. Guide tennies are great but wear more quickly.
I have something like these, but with GTX:
Worked well enough last year in Lofoten (Presten), but then again the trails there ain't that bad.
I did a fortnight of via ferratas last year in Merrell Trail Gloves. They were great, but looking a bit trashed now because I do run in them as well.
They smeared beautifully but the toe end is wide to allow your feet to splay when running, so I couldn't poke my toes in any pockets. If I find any similar shoes that lace down a bit further (any suggestions?) I will get them, otherwise another pair of Merrells for me.
A bit off the wall here but I find off road crocs great for this sort of stuff.
I wouldn't like to climb anything too difficult in them but they are extremely light and comfy.
+1 for Inov8. I'd say the roclites are the best ones, as their different shoes use different rubber. The roclites use a sticky climbing rubber. They also have decent lugs for griping on wet grass and mud, and are very light.
I have the scarpa crux i liek them though ai really wanted a straight replacement for my Zen's i think sadly not now available in the UK. these were amazing though heavy> i also have a inov for clipping to harness rather than climbing in quite like them.
intrigued buy off road crocs!
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