/ Which approach shoes?

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NorthernClamberer - on 13 Jun 2013
I appear to spend a lot of time wandering around and belaying in bare feet due to the 'shoes of pain'. Seems a good idea to get some approach shoes...

Can anyone recommend anything?

- Sturdy enough for a walk in of a couple of miles
- Light to climb with attached to me
- Fine for easy climbing/scrambling/abseiling down chossy sea cliffs
- Good quality
- Value for money

Thanks!
climber34neil - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: seems like your requirements would lead towards guide tennies, scarpa crux , I have had the tennies and they are a really great shoe and you can quite happily climb stuff in them to, the scarpa seem to be the alternative if you don't fit the 5 10, however I recently bought a pair of addidas terrex solos and am so far mightily impressed by the overall performance and fit. Wether they will last longer than the 5 10 only time will tell but I would highly reccomend them. Whichever you choose , beware of the wet grass!
GridNorth - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: I've got a pair of these: http://bouldersuk.com/climbing-shop/evolv-cruzer

I don't think they are rugged enough to be considered a rugged approach shoe however but I bought them primarily for descending off a route.
NorthernClamberer - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to GridNorth: I see what you mean but they do look good for the climbing part of my requirements.
NorthernClamberer - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to climber34neil: Hmmm, the tennies do look quite good but I heed your point about the wet grass! I saw these but wondered if they would be too bulky, although they look more sturdy for rougher terrain.

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Approach-Shoes/Womens-Camp-Four-FIV-WCAMP#.UboSL9hMfQ...

Too many choices!! Ahhhh!
In reply to NorthernClamberer: Like all shoe/boot/footwear questions, it boils down to 2 things, price and fit. Other people's recommendations are only good for you if they fit you. There is so much variety in foot shape between individuals and shoe fit between manufacturers that other people's recommendations aren't much help to you and your feet unless you and they talk in terms of foot shape and shoe fit.
HeMa on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

Lightweight mountain running shoes, inov and alike.
ice.solo - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to HeMa:
> (In reply to NorthernClamberer)
>
> Lightweight mountain running shoes, inov and alike.

This.

I wear sportiva xplorers for rugged stuff, but unless its cold, long and actual low grade climbing some minimal trail shoes work well.
Nath93 - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to HeMa: Depends how hard you're willing to climb in running shoes i suppose.

I'm in the same situation as the OP, thinking about going for the Guide Tennie for Cuillin stuff this summer, probably only get a few months out them anyway.
IoanTataru - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to ice.solo: http://www.salomon.com/uk/product/speedcross-3.html
Lighter than approach shoes, more confortable, dry quite fast. When climbing with them you can't ever edge but they make up for it in friction.
AlanLittle - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

I have them and quite like them, but they are indeed very bulky - I think they are actually intended as a big wall shoe rather than an approach shoe. The rounded heel is a liability on wet grass, otherwise they grip rather well on most things.
Barney_GT - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: Have a look at this special offer from Needlesports:

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Approach-Shoes/Womens-Raptor

My mate paid a lot more for the mens version and absolutely swears by them. Unless you're having a difficult walk in on a big mountain route, they should fit the bill!
Nille - on 14 Jun 2013
+1 for the Sportiva Raptors
mattrm - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

Fell running shoes basically. Shoes that are labelled 'approach shoes' often aren't good for walking around steep cliffs on wet grass, which is what you want in your cragging shoes. Fell running shoes with the big spikes on the bottom are great on wet grass and are very light. You can generally climb ok in them.

I would imagine any of those would be good:

http://www.peteblandsports.co.uk/trolleyed/228/246/175/

Also, if you explain to Pete Bland's your location and difficulty getting to a running shop, I'm sure they wouldn't mind sending a couple of pairs so you can try them on. They're a really good shop.

re the climbing shoes, if they're that bad, you need a new pair, see what Dave Mac has to say:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2009/10/on-choosing-right-fit-for-rock-shoes.html
The New NickB - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

Most approach shoes are pretty heavy, effectively a low cut boot in many cases. My La Sportivas are very stiff soled as well. Has anyone tried climbing in anything like the Merrill bare foot stuff.

I'm not an advocate of bare foot (sic) shoes for running, but might be good for the OP's requirements.
andic - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

I was wearing mizuno wave harriers and climbing reasonably ard in them last year. Low profile trail shoes are actually quite good on rock not at all lke their big squashy road going cousins, thy usually have grippy rubber and a narrow sole which doesn't stick out from under your big toe so edging can be reasonable etc.
andic - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to The New NickB:

Tried it in 5fingers, requires super human toe strength
In reply to The New NickB: I've also bashed my toes enough for them to hurt for some time after walking up scree approaches to cliffs in Innov8s (mine aren't even the lightest - more mid weight ones.

I think for lightness for carrying up routes fell/trail shoes like innov8s are unbeatable if you need more than flip flops for walking down etc., but for crags where I leave my shoes at the bottom I like something that stops me bashing my feet around a bit more.

I've had these for nearly a year now and used them loads - they're great for UK-like possibly damp and muddy walk ins. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4904
ice.solo - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to The New NickB:
> (In reply to NorthernClamberer)
>
Has anyone tried climbing in anything like the Merrill bare foot stuff.
>
yes, 2 types of the NB minimus range. nothing serious, just messing about on some boulders.

terrible.
almost the opposite of a rock shoe with no lateral or length-wise camber, wide soft toes and soft edges.

nice for walking in tho and feel great after rock shoes, so a good choice for long walk offs.
the merrill ones seem a bit more robust and maybe nicer rubber too.
light enough to clip to a harness or even stuff in a pocket.
The New NickB - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to andic:
> (In reply to The New NickB)
>
> Tried it in 5fingers, requires super human toe strength

The Merrell I am thinking of have a bit more support than 5fingers.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Voltemands - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to HeMa:
> (In reply to NorthernClamberer)
>
> Lightweight mountain running shoes, inov and alike.

+1. I always use my inov8 trail shoes. Great grip ambling around the crag, comfortable and dual purpose!
fairweatherclimber - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

I sense you're erring towards somethig lighter, but I have the Scarpa Crux and find them excellent. Comfy fit for all day use and can still solo easy routes in them. Guide tennies are great but wear more quickly.
HeMa on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to The New NickB:

I have something like these, but with GTX:
http://www.merrell.com/US/en-US/Product.mvc.aspx/31962M/78032/Mens/Barefoot-Run-Trail-Glove-2?dimens...

Worked well enough last year in Lofoten (Presten), but then again the trails there ain't that bad.
syv_k - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to The New NickB:

I did a fortnight of via ferratas last year in Merrell Trail Gloves. They were great, but looking a bit trashed now because I do run in them as well.

They smeared beautifully but the toe end is wide to allow your feet to splay when running, so I couldn't poke my toes in any pockets. If I find any similar shoes that lace down a bit further (any suggestions?) I will get them, otherwise another pair of Merrells for me.
RomTheBear - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: I got the scarpa vortex VCR and they work very well, you can climb ok with them, and are quite good on the wet. Also they are surpringly waterproof.
RomTheBear - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to RomTheBear: Also they are indestructible
PaulTanton - on 14 Jun 2013
Five Ten camp 4 every time. I've several pairs and found them to be good value for the money. I bought a pair of Salomon (widow makers) at the start of last summer. Absoloute cr&p. The friction is rubbish and the tops fell apart.
Gazlynn - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

A bit off the wall here but I find off road crocs great for this sort of stuff.

I wouldn't like to climb anything too difficult in them but they are extremely light and comfy.

http://www.crocs.co.uk/crocs--off-road/10011-280-009,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=men-footwear-clogs&sid=m

cheers

Gaz
ripper - on 14 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: I like my 5.10 Camp Fours - sturdy, supportive, comfy to walk in and I've climbed VS and F5+ in them. However, they're not waterproof and if they get sodden they take an age to dry - and every time I clip them to my harness I kinda wish I had something lighter. Maybe I need an approach shoe AND a belay/descent shoe...
CharlieMack - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:

+1 for Inov8. I'd say the roclites are the best ones, as their different shoes use different rubber. The roclites use a sticky climbing rubber. They also have decent lugs for griping on wet grass and mud, and are very light.
Toerag - on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: I have a pair of sportiva B5s - pretty good, but still not as good on vegetation as fell running or astro shoes. They were surprisingly stiff but have mellowed nicely. One fo the euro brands like Scarpa or Salewa do some approach shoes with decent tread and smearing edge round the front but I can't remember what they are. If you can find mammut shoes with the hexagonal tread pattern get them - I have a pair of Raichle summer boots with those soles and they are excellent on rock and veg.
OwenM - on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer: I've just got a pair of these http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Ganda+Guide for trips to Skye and the Dolomites. So far they seem ok.
alasdair19 on 22 Jun 2013
In reply to OwenM: they look fantastic let us know how they wear early models seemed to have an issue with the glue (see ade nelhams blog for detail?

I have the scarpa crux i liek them though ai really wanted a straight replacement for my Zen's i think sadly not now available in the UK. these were amazing though heavy> i also have a inov for clipping to harness rather than climbing in quite like them.

intrigued buy off road crocs!

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