/ beginner alpine

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AdCo82 on 17 Jun 2013
So I've a few seasons guided in the Alps and now want to consider a trip with just mates rather than supported.

Can anyone recommend an area and some good starter mountains and routes.

I am comfortable with UK winter and rock climbing and just want to try the alps alone. I have regularly practiced crevasse rescue in the alps and so not worried about that.

thanks in advance.

AT
Kid Spatula - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to An Triubhas:

Arolla for the Pigne D'Arolla (easy peasy) and Mont Blanc Du Cheilon (not so easy peasy).

Saas Fee for the Allalinhorn (easy), Weismiess (easyish), and the Nadelhorn NE Ridge (Long, and can be tricky, hope you hate your knees)
Mark / Alps - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to An Triubhas:

You could start in an area you've been to before and try one or two routes you have previously been guided up for confidence and then try some routes that are new to you.
Perhaps start with shorter / less committing routes. Your profile suggests you have a range of skills and experience so Chamonix could work for you. From the Torino Hut there are many shorter routes to cut your teeth on. From the Col du Midi there are, again, a wide choice of shorter and medium length routes. Depends on the types of routes you want to do.
AdCo82 on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Mark / Alps:

Mixed routes with rock and snow ridges and big snow fields.

The odd rock and ice pitch.

AT
pec on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: You might consider heading East to Austria. The mountains are (in general) a bit lower, the routes a bit shorter, the weather a bit better and things altogether a bit less serious than the Pennine Alps or Chamonix etc.
This book covers a wide range of areas (rather than having to buy separate guides or only going to one area) and only describes easier routes, F's and PD's so there's plenty of choice.
http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Maps-DVDs/Foreign-Climbing-Guides/Europe/Austria/Eastern...
Its out of print but you can get it from Amazon or Ebay.
davidoldfart - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to An Triubhas: You might consider the Oberland. Plenty of routes that fit your bill, both on the 4,000 metre peaks (the Jungfrau, Finsteraarhorn and Aletschhorn might be good choices when you are acclimatised) and the lower ones: try the Doldenhorn, Sustenhorn, the rock peaks around the Mittelaletsch hit, etc etc. Plus load of great rock climbing at Fisch, Grimsel, Salbit and Handegg.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Solaris - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to An Triubhas:

I'd suggest the Saas valley or the Ecrins. The latter has generally more reliable weather than elsewhere. Valley cragging not particularly good in Saas valley. Oberland is good but there are fewer (obvious) acclimatisation peaks and is prone to afternoon storms.

The Martin Moran/AC 4000m guide will give you a good idea of higher routes in these areas, though the Ecrins is a bit lower overall and only the Barre des Ecrins gets in above the magic altitude. As elsewhere, there are plenty of good routes on lower peaks.

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