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Edelrid Mega Jul. Not impressed. can I return it?

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 NIGBEE 17 Jun 2013
Tried one at a demo at a wall and was very impressed, it auto locked on leader falls and whilst abbing. (big fat wall ropes)

Got round to buying one today along with a Black Diamond Grid Lock karabiner, have brought them home and had a practice with them.

With my ropes they just dont auto lock neither my Revalation 9.2mm single or my 8.2mm half ropes, this has been tested by a hanging set up and I just slide down the rope (very slowly admitedly) it does lock on the 9.2mm if I change the biner to my old HMS but still not on the half ropes

I know all the instructions state that you must hold the dead rope at all times but I am surprised by the amount of difference in performance by switching karabiners (nothing is stated about karabiner requirements in the instructions)

Anyway I am not impressed with it and feel I have wasted my money as it does not work as I was expecting with my existing ropes and any extra holding power seems not worth the more down sides to using it.


Short question after all that is can I return it or is there some PPE ruling or the shop can just say no as it does work buy the strictest letter of the instructions?

 Run_Ross_Run 17 Jun 2013
In reply to NIGBEE:

> Short question after all that is can I return it

Sales of good act would override any return policy irrespective of whether's its PPE or not.

U might have a prob convincing them its 'Not fit for purpose" though.

 angry pirate 17 Jun 2013
In reply to NIGBEE:
Short answer: no
As there is no actual fault in it and it is sold as braking assisted rather than auto lock it is fit for purpose so there is no obligation to refund you.
As an aside, mine works well with a bd gridlock on singles and nearly autolocks on single 8.5 when playing. Copes with double halfs well (tried hands free ab)
 jimtitt 17 Jun 2013
In reply to NIGBEE:

Belay plates aren´t PPE so that´s irrelevant. Whether you can send it back depends on the returns policy of the shop.
 BnB 17 Jun 2013
In reply to jimtitt:

Stick with it a little and get used to the configuration. I'm the first to admit I'm a little slow at mechanical engineering and I took a few goes to get confortable with the Megajul. Now I think it's the dogs. Works great with a fat Petzl carabiner with a thick rounded profile.

Trying to copy the fellas in the video isn't a lot of help. Instead, protecting a leader, try setting it up like a regular tuber (green handle foremost) and keep the dead rope snapped back at all times. It WILL lock almost instantly with no effort on your part. You can get really fast taking in or feeding out with it. And the locking feature saves effort and stress.

The video doesn't show how to bring up a second but that is again a matter of setting up like a tuber and pulling on the dead rope which inverts the device (ie it turns upside down) and then pulls easily though, while locking instantly if any weight is exerted on the live rope. I'm a convert.
 itsThere 17 Jun 2013
In reply to NIGBEE: From the instructions, it also says this on the back of the packet if i remember right. Diameter range 8.9 to 12.0 mm for single ropes. So your 8.2mm ropes are not going to work even if they are half ropes with both of them. However on their website page for it, it states Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes. So maybe your half ropes will work. Whats it say on the back of the pack, is there any talk of sigle or half ropes. The instructions dont say much on the subject.

I dont think it would be wise for a shop to not give a refund and talk to Edelrid for which rope dia to use.

I just noticed that if you go on the website and click instructions it gives them for the JUL not mega jul. http://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/products/hardware/mega-jul.html
 cliff shasby 17 Jun 2013
In reply to NIGBEE: I have the mega and micro version,i think if you like the device (i do)you need both to fit all rope diameters,also both of mine work well with a petzl attache 3d,i found a more rounded biner reduced the locking ability.
 Nick_Scots 17 Jun 2013
I have a JUL and it only works with certain sizes of rope. Wall ropes tend to be furrier than your own. The GRGRI is size limited too.
In reply to NIGBEE: Surely this is incredibly basic. Would you like them to belay for you aswell?

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