/ Fairy Cave Quarry

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John Bradley - on 19 Jun 2013
Any ideas of where to camp/stay for a trip to Fairy Cave Quarry. Any good pubs that do food ?

Thanks.

John.
remus - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley: think there is a caving hut fairly near by so might be worth looking into whether you could use that.
riddle - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley:

There is the Wagon and Horses pub on Old Frome Road. They have some camping and great food.
Neil Williams - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to remus:

It's the Cerberus Speleological Society, it is I understand open to non members.

Neil
useful on 19 Jun 2013
Tom F Harding on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley:

Have you dropped Ian an email yet to get the code? He's a good source of information for the area.
Merlin - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley:

First of all, I'd be asking whether or not Fairy Cave Quarry is the sort of place you want to do a 'trip' to. It's not the nicest crag. Where are you travelling from?

The Pylon King on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to Merlin:
> (In reply to John Bradley)
>
> First of all, I'd be asking whether or not Fairy Cave Quarry is the sort of place you want to do a 'trip' to.


Incorrect.

And thats not what he is asking is it?
Neil Williams - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to The Pylon King:

It's a pleasant enough place for a day or two's climbing, and the caving hut is a nice, cheap, friendly place to stay.

Only thing I'd really warn about is that a lot of routes are poorly protected and there is a lot of loose rock. But if you're careful and wear a helmet I don't see that as a reason not to go.

Neil
JAnders48 - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to Neil Williams: Some of the routes themselves might be OK but pleasant is not the word I would choose to describe the place. Grim. Yes that's much more accurate, unless of course you like starting your climbs from wrecked cars and dumped fridges. Even compared to other quarries I have been to I think this is one of the worst in that respect. Or has it been cleaned up in which case I could be tempted back.
remus - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to JAnders48: I havent seen any wrecked cars or dumped fridges in the 5 or 6 years Ive been climbing there. Perhaps I just haven't been looking very closely.

That being said, if you think fcq is bad I suggest a visit to charnwood quarry. You'll be praising the high quality rock, quality protection and expansive views of fcq before you know it!
deepstar - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to JAnders48: You have`nt been to FCQ for a while then,as it is now a rather pleasnt place.No dumped cars or fridges, lots of Tadpoles in the ponds,Birds of Prey soaring overhead and no traffic noise.
JAnders48 - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to deepstar: That's good. I last went during the period when it was being developed and I haven't been back since. The pools were filthy puddles full of diesel and god knows what else.

It sounds like another visit is on the cards. Even so I wouldn't have thought that it was a venue worth travelling any distance for, more of a place for those who have done it all and/or climbers who live no more than 1 hour away.
lazzaw - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to deepstar: I live closeby and would tend to agree. I'll be back there tonight and see if I've missed stepped over any cars without noticing, but the fence keeps the chavs out so it is kept clean without as much as a crisp wrapper around normally.

Are you thinking of the Holcombe quarries (Bector Wood and Cooks Wood) JAnders48? Common to get stuff dumped in the lane and into the quarries there.
The Pylon King on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to JAnders48:
> (In reply to deepstar) That's good. I last went during the period when it was being developed and I haven't been back since. The pools were filthy puddles full of diesel and god knows what else.
>
> It sounds like another visit is on the cards. Even so I wouldn't have thought that it was a venue worth travelling any distance for, more of a place for those who have done it all and/or climbers who live no more than 1 hour away.

Incorrect, its very popular now with people travelling a reasonable distance to AND enjoying, so it seems.
Steve nevers on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley: FCQ is getting a lot more popular. Guessing due to the extra traffic since development the better lines are kept a little cleaner than they used to be.
Neil Williams - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to JAnders48:

I only bothered because I was specifically going to the caving hut (with some cavers, though I'm not a big fan of that myself) but it is a decent setting these days.

Neil
JAnders48 - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to The Pylon King: Point taken, perhaps I should have added IMO which is after all what this is all about. I went when there were only a couple of routes there and it was grim. The rock had a flakey layer that used to peel off when you touched it and there were rusty cars, fridges and washers all over the place. Just goes to show I was lacking in imagination.
Merlin - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to JAnders48:

I must admit, it's been 3 years or so since I've visited FCQ. Although, at the time I did think it was a grim hole, in addition to not thinking much of the routes.
Ian Butterworth - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley: Fairy Cave Quarry provides the best slab climbing in the area IMO. A few routes have areas of flakey rock but most of the starred routes are on excellent rock - for a quarry. The quarry is quickly returning to a natural state with many trees and plants colonising the quarry floor (the Ox-Eye Daisies are glorious at the moment) and no cars, fridges or other dumping within the quarry.

FCQ is very popular as an evening and weekend venue often with several teams climbing. The majority of climbers are local (Bath, Bristol, Yeovil) but I have received requests for the combination from London, Oxford, the West Midlands and even further afield when people are passing on route to Cornwall etc.

Ian Butterworth
BMC Access Rep for Somerset & Mendips
ads.ukclimbing.com
Davinamo on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley: We often visit FCQ when in the area and have always enjoyed the climbing and environment. Have a peek at this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=151683
Merlin - on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley:

There is some serious advertising of the crag on this thread - are the BMC charging an admission fee or something?? ;0)
John Willson - on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to Merlin:
> (In reply to John Bradley)
>
> There is some serious advertising of the crag on this thread - are the BMC charging an admission fee or something?? ;0)

No, but some serious work (by Ian Butterworth) went into establishing the new access agrement and (by Brian and others) in producing the guidebook.
Steve nevers on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to Merlin:
> (In reply to John Bradley)
>
> There is some serious advertising of the crag on this thread - are the BMC charging an admission fee or something?? ;0)

Its just getting that popular!

The fact theres a nice little guidebook that seems to have come out recently helps, but thats only 4 so I guess thats not much of an conspiracy either!
The Pylon King on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to Merlin:

Nice crag (nowadays)

Nice up to date full colour topo guidebook

Nice access agreement

Win Win Win!
The Ivanator - on 22 Jun 2013
In reply to John Bradley: 'Tis an earthly paradise... ;-)
The Pylon King on 22 Jun 2013
Morgan P - on 23 Jun 2013
In reply to Steve nevers:
> (In reply to Merlin)
> [...]
>
> Its just getting that popular!
>
> The fact theres a nice little guidebook that seems to have come out recently helps, but thats only 4

Yeah was really impressed with the guidebook when I bought it! Was expecting a half-arsed job considering it was 4 as you said but it's a really pretty, nicely done guide!


Steve nevers on 23 Jun 2013
In reply to Morgan P:
> (In reply to Steve nevers)
> [...]
>
> Yeah was really impressed with the guidebook when I bought it! Was expecting a half-arsed job considering it was 4 as you said but it's a really pretty, nicely done guide!


Theres a few placing chucking it in alongside the Cheddar and Avon guides for a mere 25. Bargain!
Merlin - on 23 Jun 2013
In reply to The Pylon King:

Sounds like it is time for a revisit this summer then, with the new guide!

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