UKC

What would be concidered a good grade for a new comer with ok fitness???

In reply to Thegypsy:

Following VS. Plenty can do harder, but a decent benchmark. Or, in sport terms, 6a.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Thanks

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I think this is about right. I took my kick boxer mate up Fairy steps Direct at Heppy back in the early nineties. First time he'd ever touched rock and he didn't weight the rope at all. But the payback was I had to go to the gym and spar with him for 15 minutes.

E

In reply to Thegypsy: OK 4c - vs is my target.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: On the grades i looked at 6a was a e4?

In reply to Thegypsy:

There is a grade system for Trad, another for Sport, and a couple for Bouldering.

(If you're not aware what these different styles ask, please ask).

Trad grades have an adjectival part (Diff, HVS, E4 etc) and a (British) technical grade (4b, 5a, 6c etc).

Sport grades have just a (French) technical grade, which looks a lot like the British one from 6a up, but also as optional + levels (4, 4+, 5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b etc)

Bouldering has V grades and/or Fontainbleau grades.

So 6a Sport climbs are (roughly) equivalent in technical difficulty to 5a Trad climbs.

Simple !! ?

Rug

In reply to rug: simple As a new comer it looks complicated awkard..

In reply to Thegypsy: What grade would i need to be climbing too,to do the cullen ridge on skye??

In reply to Thegypsy: Best thing is to try some low grade climbs and get your technique sorted. You may be able to climb VS 4c as a first climb but it will likely be with very poor technique.

Start with some mods and diffs first, and work your way up the grades enjoying them along the way. Too many folk get hung-up on grades I reckon. You should/could climb this etc. Why miss out the lower grade stuff though? And if you are going to do the lower grade stuff why not start with it and work your way up?

It will also depend on the rock, the type of climb, etc. A VS 4C at Bowden Doors is very different to a VS 4C at Peel Crag for example. One suits my climbing style, one doesn't.

I wouldn't stick a new climber on a VS 4c that they might not be able to climb. I'd stick them on something much lower, that I knew they could enjoy and want to come back for more!

In reply to Martin1978: O yeah,the plan is to work up from v diff,im just aiming high

In reply to Thegypsy:

lol - 6a = E4

you have a lot to learn

ditto jcm (and Enty's) view of what is normal.

Yes, if you are really switched on and ok with heights/exposure, you 'may' manage to second VS. Others struggle with V Diffs.

I would challenge any complete novice outdoors to completely breeze up Little Cham for example. It has a unique mix of exposure, awkwardness and just adventure for an almost roadside V Diff. I've seen ok indoors climbers in tears on it. On the other hand an olympic standard sprinter followed me up an E1 with bulging eyes, muscles, determination, and rather impressively made it cleanly.

Kind of depends on the route and your head. Don't worry about grade. Just get out there and see how it feels.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Very true, and partly my point. A little gritcentric though....

In reply to Jon Stewart: If there both vs 4c ,how can one look alot harder than the other??

In reply to Skyfall: I managed tower ridge (v diff) as a scramble,but yeah your right just cant wait to get out there and do it.

In reply to Thegypsy:

Oh I'm sure you would get up any V Diff and many VS's. I just mean I've seen some people who are fit and can do fine indoors struggle to cope on exposed/awkward V Diffs. I'm sure with your experience (which I didn't appreciate) you'll be towards the VS end of the spectrum. Anyway, my point stands, be less concerned about grade and just get out and do classic great routes to start.

I suspect JCM's point is actually a little more subtle - if you are capable then set your sights high and don't get limited by thinking any particular grade is hard. When starting out, I did better when I didn't actually try to push myself but climbed what I fancied. However, it is also said that you will progress faster if you climb with people who are quite good and don't put limitations on themselves.

In reply to Skyfall: Good advice thank you