/ First climb outdoors
Following VS. Plenty can do harder, but a decent benchmark. Or, in sport terms, 6a.
> Following VS. Plenty can do harder, but a decent benchmark. Or, in sport terms, 6a.
I think this is about right. I took my kick boxer mate up Fairy steps Direct at Heppy back in the early nineties. First time he'd ever touched rock and he didn't weight the rope at all. But the payback was I had to go to the gym and spar with him for 15 minutes.
There is a grade system for Trad, another for Sport, and a couple for Bouldering.
(If you're not aware what these different styles ask, please ask).
Trad grades have an adjectival part (Diff, HVS, E4 etc) and a (British) technical grade (4b, 5a, 6c etc).
Sport grades have just a (French) technical grade, which looks a lot like the British one from 6a up, but also as optional + levels (4, 4+, 5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b etc)
Bouldering has V grades and/or Fontainbleau grades.
So 6a Sport climbs are (roughly) equivalent in technical difficulty to 5a Trad climbs.
Simple !! ?
Start with some mods and diffs first, and work your way up the grades enjoying them along the way. Too many folk get hung-up on grades I reckon. You should/could climb this etc. Why miss out the lower grade stuff though? And if you are going to do the lower grade stuff why not start with it and work your way up?
It will also depend on the rock, the type of climb, etc. A VS 4C at Bowden Doors is very different to a VS 4C at Peel Crag for example. One suits my climbing style, one doesn't.
I wouldn't stick a new climber on a VS 4c that they might not be able to climb. I'd stick them on something much lower, that I knew they could enjoy and want to come back for more!
The grade won't really tell you a lot about whether you can do it or not. I know that sounds odd, but at VS 4c, you'd be almost certain to get up this (seconding):
But unlikely to have a chance in hell on this:
That's just how it is.
lol - 6a = E4
you have a lot to learn ;)
ditto jcm (and Enty's) view of what is normal.
Yes, if you are really switched on and ok with heights/exposure, you 'may' manage to second VS. Others struggle with V Diffs.
I would challenge any complete novice outdoors to completely breeze up Little Cham for example. It has a unique mix of exposure, awkwardness and just adventure for an almost roadside V Diff. I've seen ok indoors climbers in tears on it. On the other hand an olympic standard sprinter followed me up an E1 with bulging eyes, muscles, determination, and rather impressively made it cleanly.
Kind of depends on the route and your head. Don't worry about grade. Just get out there and see how it feels.
Very true, and partly my point. A little gritcentric though....
Oh I'm sure you would get up any V Diff and many VS's. I just mean I've seen some people who are fit and can do fine indoors struggle to cope on exposed/awkward V Diffs. I'm sure with your experience (which I didn't appreciate) you'll be towards the VS end of the spectrum. Anyway, my point stands, be less concerned about grade and just get out and do classic great routes to start.
I suspect JCM's point is actually a little more subtle - if you are capable then set your sights high and don't get limited by thinking any particular grade is hard. When starting out, I did better when I didn't actually try to push myself but climbed what I fancied. However, it is also said that you will progress faster if you climb with people who are quite good and don't put limitations on themselves.
Elsewhere on the site
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more