/ Rope life
So whats the secret? How and when do you decide a rope has had it?
> So whats the secret? How and when do you decide a rope has had it?
You'll know, you'll just know.
I retired mine last week, was damaged so I cut it short, but the rest of the rope seemed to be really soft, folded too easily, knots became a nightmare to undo, it lost it's dry treatment, and at 5 and a bit years old I decided I wasn't going to lead on it anymore.
Still be happy to top rope with it for a bit longer I guess.
When its nice and furry and takes up your teddy bears place in the bed.
I ditch mine when they become any of the following: Lost, worrying, quite stiff, alarmingly spongey, significantly damaged mid-span, too short, contaminated or redundant beside a shiny new bargain.
Never had one go stiff before.
To the OP: whenever I look at the rope and think "I wonder if this will work?" - if you don't trust it deep down, something isn't right. Plus all the others above.
Not dynamic ropes...But my caving club tends to retire ropes because they get too stiff.
Not sure if its grit in the sheath or abraded fibres not sliding against each other smoothly but they feel like cable.
> I ditch mine when they become any of the following: Lost, worrying, quite stiff, alarmingly spongey, significantly damaged mid-span, too short, contaminated or redundant beside a shiny new bargain.
This must surely be the winner!...:)
But those are factor 1.77 falls, which mean falls well below the belay anchor. You don't do that very often, or am I wrong? ;)
I mostly do single pitch sport routes and I bet my ropes take more than 200 falls before I retire them.
It takes a special kind of neglect. Actually I think it's mostly age and sunlight that does it though washing them seems to make it worse. Hard to tell really from such a small sample what causes it.
Do cavers also use dynamic ropes or are they static? I know on TR routes at indoor walls the ropes are usually a lot stiffer as they're static (or semi-dynamic I think)
In this sense, 'static' is bit of a misnomer. 'Semi-static', 'semi-dynamic', 'static', they all roughly mean the same thing; don't go leading on them.
But they do stretch a bit and yes cavers do favour them for obvious reasons; cheaper and stretch is usually a hindrance rather than an advantage.
Depends, it seems the EU came up with the semistatic standard with caving in mind. Semistatic Type A ropes can take 5 FF1 falls with 100kg, and have a <6kN impact force for a FF0.3 100kg case.
(ie: http://bealplanet.com/sport/anglais/corde-spelenium105.php )
Though then we have some of the iconic american caving ropes like the PMI pit rope. Not sure about the specifics of that rope, I've never seen a copy of whatever standard CI 1801:1998 is that it's advertised as complying with.
Most of the cavers I know only differentiate between dynamic (enough to lead) and static (everything else).
Show it a picture of Margaret Thatcher.
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