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Topic - "Pant Filling" moves on a scramble

Jim Walton on 08 Jul 2013
Now, I'm a fairly experienced climber and scrambler. I've climbed most of the grade 3 and 3S scrambles in England and Wales and quite a few of the big ones in Scotland. Led E3 on rock, but I got PROPER SCARED yesterday. I was meant to be climbing yesterday but my partner was ill and had to drop out at the last min. As I was in N Wales and the sun was out it seemed a shame not to go out and play.

A quick flick through the guidebook for a west or north face scramble and I fell upon Wrinkle Tower on the west face of tryfan. Grade 3, never done it before, a surprise. It would be nicely out of the sun :-) Sandwiches packed, midge cream applied, time to play.

The scramble was really easy to find and the guidebook description accurate and easy to follow. Romped along up lovely bubbly rock slabs, over pinnacles, up a squeeze chimney (love chimneys!) until suddenly I'm in a "pant filling" position of the most gut wrenching exposure.

You exit this chimney halfway up on the left. Traverse left along a narrow sloping ledge on a vertical wall. In the distance (well 3m anyway) is a thank god flake. It's obviously a big hold but it's a long reach. Nothing really to hold onto for your hands (small side pull) and your feet are on a 6" sloping ledge that gets smaller and more sloped the closer you get to the flake.

A some point you are going to have to commit (I was on my own) but what a commitment. You're 30m vertically above some well placed skewers of rock, on a part of he mountain where no-one else goes. A fall from here would be fatal at best.

I must have been on that ledge for 5mins but it felt like hours. It was without doubt the scariest move I've EVER done on any scramble I've been on before.

My question is what other scrambles are there out there with a "pant filling" move. I can't think of any others that I've done with a move like that.
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