/ Excellent Everest Article
"A Sherpa working above Base Camp on Everest is... more than three and a half times as likely to perish than an infantryman during the first four years of the Iraq war... There’s no other service industry in the world that so frequently kills and maims its workers for the benefit of paying clients.
"Reinhold Messner... had harsh words for mountaineers who want it both ways. “Climbers who cross ladders set by Sherpas at the Khumbu Icefall,” he told the crowd, “then go up without ropes and claim to be special are parasites.”
Good article and I like the Messner reference.
Overall quite an interesting read. The part about the Steck/Moro/Griffith episode, which is obviously the only part most people will read, is of course pure bullshit.
apart from that paragraph the overall read is interesting and touches across various subjects
In a way though the worst victims are porters, who may get treated really badly. I remember on a trek arriving in village below Mera Pk where they had a dead body. No-on knew who he was except that he got ill and was sent back down from the pass by the trekkers he was carrying for.
> In a way though the worst victims are porters, who may get treated really badly.
Yes, I agree. The porter situation for trekking and expedition approaches can be terrible and, in numbers, affects a lot more people than the Everest show.
The article is not saying that. It's saying that *commercial expeditions* would not climb anything big without Sherpas. It's not talking about more traditional, smaller expeditions of regular, unguided climbers on other peaks.
As far as the Mazeno ascent? I thought it was a bit incongruous, but I don't know the exact nature of the relationship between them all when they went into it. It seems to me they were hired as 'help', which is incompatible with the Piolets d'Or thing, fwtw. On the other hand what Rick and Sandy did in the end was incredibly impressive. Could they have done it without their strong paid Sherpa friends? Unlikely.
> .. The part about the Steck/Moro/Griffith episode... is of course pure bullshit.
In what way?
Why is it presumptuous? They did use the ladders. Everyone does. That's why it's hypocritical to make a big deal about what you do above them, as if you don't need them. I don't think it should have been left out at all, not only because it will probably be seen in time as a catalyst for change. It was an example of people not respecting the work of the Sherpas in the icefall - one of whom died working there not long before the 'fight' - but still seeking glory on their backs. Ueli offering to fix ropes was not helping, it made things worse. Basic stuff.
I'm with Damo.
A cheap, and nasty, shot.
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