/ Getting new tape/slings for Friends

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Giz - on 12 Jul 2013
I have 2 rigid Friends. I reckon all the metal bits are still ok but I really ought to get new tape/slings for them. Any suggestions how? Ask Wild Country...? Also, anyone know how much it would cost? Is it worth it or should I invest in some shiny new ones?
CurlyStevo - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Giz:
how old are they WC will not resling if older than 10 years.
John W - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to Giz:

Rethread them with (suitable) accessory cord, tied with an appropriate knot. A forum search will give you the info you need.

ps - usual disclaimer e.g. "you may die if you f*ck this up" etc etc

pps - in anticipation of the predictable "this is the worst advice I've ever heard" flaming - c'est la vie (or not, as the case may be).
John W - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to John W:

Done it for you...

From NeedleSports friends & cams page...

"Marlow - 5.5mm Dyneema Cord x 1 metre
Static cord that almost as strong (15.89kN) as 9mm rope. Use it for restringing nuts etc to save weight and bulk, but tie a triple rather than a double fisherman's knot (if you don't know the difference then ring us up and we'll explain!), and also you must cut it with a hot knife, pull the sheath back 5mm, chop this amount from the core, pull the sheath over the end of the core and heat seal it in place - you need to do this because the core and sheath do not bond together when cut. Colourful Black only."


A couple of years ago I replaced tapes on three WC friends using the stuff above.

I found the 1m length too much so cut them down further, which is not easy unless you have a very good blade or hot knife, so maybe get them to do this for you. If you're tall and/or don't mind stuff swinging low on your harness then this might not be an issue.

To make sure the triple fishermans were never going to slip or work loose I preloaded them, clipping the knotted slings to an overhead beam and then bouncing on them with bodyweight.

Reslinging as above works okay - I've fallen on all my reslung friends and they were fine - but maybe it's something not worth doing and you might be better off leaving your friends as they are. I don't know how old your friends are, but even if the slings have lost 50-60% of their original 22-24kN strength (after say 10-15 years?) they are still very strong, stronger than some of the other gear you're probably happy to trust. For further info see strength tests/results for old friends and slings easily found online, e.g. BMC technical reports, KP at BD amongst others. The original slings are much neater than knotted dyneema replacements, as well as the sizes being more easily identifiable by sling colour.

With hindsight I don't think I'd bother replacing nylon slings again. By the time an original nylon sling is weak enough to worry about I'll probably be more concerned about other parts such as the wire stem and be happy to replace the whole unit anyway.


John W - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Giz:

No, really, you're most welcome!!
Doghouse - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to John W:
> (In reply to Giz)
>
> No, really, you're most welcome!!

Yes, I can see his appreciation :-)
GridNorth - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Giz: Try here: https://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/cams/mt_camresling.htm

I decided to invest in new cams.
In reply to Giz: Get some 16 mm tape and tie a new sling. It's not a neat as sewn, but its cheap and easy to do. I just re-slung my mambas that way: http://instagram.com/p/cBxILYrvNV/
highclimber - on 23 Jul 2013
In reply to Giz: This is something that comes up quite frequently on here. anything over 5 years and most manufactuers will not touch them (they'll condemn them for you though!). threading regular slings through them is the cheapest, safest option.

Search the forums.
Giz - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to John W: Sorry not been on for a while. That is really (really) useful advice. Ta muchly.
ads.ukclimbing.com
jkarran - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to Giz:

WC won't re-sling anything over 10 years old.

I just got 20cm 6mm slings, doubled them through the holes, clip them doubled or larksfoot to extend. 8 or 10mm slings will fit in rigid friends and they're easier to find. If you larksfoot it make sure you knock down any sharp edges that wouldn't normally have touched the sling.

jk

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