/ Getting new tape/slings for Friends
how old are they WC will not resling if older than 10 years.
Rethread them with (suitable) accessory cord, tied with an appropriate knot. A forum search will give you the info you need.
ps - usual disclaimer e.g. "you may die if you f*ck this up" etc etc
pps - in anticipation of the predictable "this is the worst advice I've ever heard" flaming - c'est la vie (or not, as the case may be).
Done it for you...
From NeedleSports friends & cams page...
"Marlow - 5.5mm Dyneema Cord x 1 metre
Static cord that almost as strong (15.89kN) as 9mm rope. Use it for restringing nuts etc to save weight and bulk, but tie a triple rather than a double fisherman's knot (if you don't know the difference then ring us up and we'll explain!), and also you must cut it with a hot knife, pull the sheath back 5mm, chop this amount from the core, pull the sheath over the end of the core and heat seal it in place - you need to do this because the core and sheath do not bond together when cut. Colourful Black only."
A couple of years ago I replaced tapes on three WC friends using the stuff above.
I found the 1m length too much so cut them down further, which is not easy unless you have a very good blade or hot knife, so maybe get them to do this for you. If you're tall and/or don't mind stuff swinging low on your harness then this might not be an issue.
To make sure the triple fishermans were never going to slip or work loose I preloaded them, clipping the knotted slings to an overhead beam and then bouncing on them with bodyweight.
Reslinging as above works okay - I've fallen on all my reslung friends and they were fine - but maybe it's something not worth doing and you might be better off leaving your friends as they are. I don't know how old your friends are, but even if the slings have lost 50-60% of their original 22-24kN strength (after say 10-15 years?) they are still very strong, stronger than some of the other gear you're probably happy to trust. For further info see strength tests/results for old friends and slings easily found online, e.g. BMC technical reports, KP at BD amongst others. The original slings are much neater than knotted dyneema replacements, as well as the sizes being more easily identifiable by sling colour.
With hindsight I don't think I'd bother replacing nylon slings again. By the time an original nylon sling is weak enough to worry about I'll probably be more concerned about other parts such as the wire stem and be happy to replace the whole unit anyway.
No, really, you're most welcome!!
> No, really, you're most welcome!!
Yes, I can see his appreciation :-)
I decided to invest in new cams.
Search the forums.
WC won't re-sling anything over 10 years old.
I just got 20cm 6mm slings, doubled them through the holes, clip them doubled or larksfoot to extend. 8 or 10mm slings will fit in rigid friends and they're easier to find. If you larksfoot it make sure you knock down any sharp edges that wouldn't normally have touched the sling.
Elsewhere on the site
Skiing Baffin’s couloirs has been on my to do list ever since I saw Andrew McLean and Brad Barlage’s inspirational... Read more
The Christmas Gift Guide at Outside.co.uk Check out our top selection of Christmas Gift Ideas for climbers,... Read more
In this excellent film from Latitude Photography we see Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to... Read more
Make the most of this months HALF PRICE OFFER on the Five Ten Guide Tennie Mid!! Designed as a hybrid approach and... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more