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Dodgy peg at Trowbarrow

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 jwdickinson25 30 Jul 2013
Hi, I recently top-roped A Sense of Doubt at Trowbarrow on Assagai wall with intention of leading it, but upon inspection of the pegs I found that the second one down looks really dangerous and is almost coming out! This peg is crucial at this point as there is no other possible protection. So make sure you check it out and make you own judgement should you decide to lead it!
Removed User 30 Jul 2013
In reply to jwdickinson25: Well this sounds like an ideal candidate for a bolt if I ever saw one...
OP jwdickinson25 30 Jul 2013
In reply to Removed User: Hi, Im actually just waiting for a phone call from the BMC to see what can be done about it. The route is a classic but there is a risk of a ground fall if the peg rips. While I appreciate that we climb using our own judgement and I respect that bolts and pegs are no-go on crags like Trowbarrow, I cant help but think that peg replacement is the answer given that this is a classic line based on the in-situ gear from decades ago!
 FreshSlate 30 Jul 2013
In reply to jwdickinson25: Take peg out, use micro gear?
 Enty 30 Jul 2013
In reply to jwdickinson25:

Excellent. Sounds like that wall now has 3 great E5's and not just 2.

E
astley007 30 Jul 2013
In reply to Enty:
More like E6 with a nasty landing!!!
Why let grade creep happen? it will get fewer ascents.
there is nothing wrong with replacing the peg, even if you have to drill a hole near to the original and place one there and keep it at E4?
Be an excellent warm up for the 2 E5's, which are by no means soft touches!! esp Doubting Thomas!!!
Cheers
 greenroom 31 Jul 2013
In reply to jwdickinson25: Leave it alone and use micro-gear if possible. If you really have to then replace the peg. If you can't replace the peg, leave it alone. If you think it should be bolted, bring it up at the next area meeting and see what the consensus is. Respect this consensus.
 AJCW 31 Jul 2013
In reply to jwdickinson25:

Sorry I am not sure I understand which peg it is your referring to?

I remember there being two at the beginning, two slightly higher and then one just before you get into the natural pro.

Which is the bad one?
 GPN 01 Aug 2013
In reply to jwdickinson25:
The pegs aren't decades old - it sounds like it just needs a bit more glue...
OP jwdickinson25 01 Aug 2013
In reply to AJCW: Hi,
The peg below the natural pro is good, its the next one down. All pegs at the start are in situ and good. The bad peg is still in the wall so I dont know if micro gear will fit. I have no intention of removing it or bolting or doing anything that might upset folk, Just wanted to put up a post about it as I felt people should know that its seen better days and could be dangerous.
OP jwdickinson25 01 Aug 2013
In reply to GPN: I reckon some glue/ resin would do the trick!
In reply to jwdickinson25: Pegs and bolts aren't "no go" at Trowbarrow. The obvious answer is to replace the peg. If you have the technology, go do it yourself, or ask someone who has. Easy, simple, sorted.
 Pagan 02 Aug 2013
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Bolts are "no go" - see below:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=185
 GrahamD 02 Aug 2013
In reply to Removed User:

> (In reply to jwdickinson25) Well this sounds like an ideal candidate for a bolt if I ever saw one...

Or a better climber.

In reply to Pagan: Fair enough. Just put a new peg in then. Route restored, problem solved. If you're unable to place a new one try removing the old one, clearing the placement out for either a new peg or a decent wire.

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