UKC

Hey, looking to climb Gabarrou-Albinoni soon and was wondering what guide book it is in?

Thanks
Geoff

In reply to geoff.comley: snow ice and mixed, can't remember which volume. But I am pretty sure it's not in condition nowadays until late autumn at the earliest?

In reply to smithaldo: It's in volume 2, and last time I checked (Mid July) the east face of Tacul was as dry as a bone - so depends what you mean by 'soon'. Batoux's guide also has an excellent topo, but it's rather chunky to take on the route...

In reply to geoff.comley:

You don't really need too much of a description to it. Find the bottom, climb the first snow slope and take the left fork after a couple of hundred metres onto the icy bits and climb them. Continue out to Tacul ridge, or rappel according to taste.
Dave

In reply to Dave:

Would echo the same as comment above. We had the Snow, ice and mixed guide but I don't remember using it other than to identify the route on the approach. If you're descending from the Midi direction then you need to avoid baring right too soon. The route itself is very easy to navigate without any kind of description and you will know when you are at the last ab point because the steepness suddenly drops off. You just need to fork left at half height.

In reply to geoff.comley: this is all you need

http://www.chamonixtopo.com/gabarrou-albinoni-mont-blanc-du-tacul-ef/attach...

we rapped it from top of difficulties when we did it which means if doing in winter or early spring you can get back to your skis easily. i

Perfect, will sack the guide book off. And will rap down Whats that route to the right then please. Looks mint too!

How was the route? Scottish grade for it, Not sure it will be in condition though by the sounds of it. We will be going early Sept.

In reply to geoff.comley:

The route to the right is Modica-Noury, slightly harder. My semi-random guess would be around scottish V for Gabarrou, VI for Modica.

Though right now, they are not climbable. The approach gully is a mixed/loose block nightmare and most of the ice is gone. Wait for late fall or better, spring.

In reply to Alex Buisse:

Gabarrou is no way grade Scottish V. Generally considered to equate to IV. Modica-Noury generally considered to equate to Scottish V. Latter is generally a little thinner so even less chance of being in condition I'd say. It got more sun from memory.

Gabarrou traditionally isn't in any sort of condition for the time you are going. Have you got some conditions beta confirming otherwise? Even Jager Couloir has almost disappeared towards the end of summer in recent years.

Brief write-up/photos of mine below. A bit negative reading back but a good route (just very busy that day!). Note that we climbed it in March!

http://www.leeharrisonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/gabarrou-albinoni-td-...

In reply to Mr. Lee:

You're probably right, I haven't climbed Scottish winter in a while, so not sure about the alpine equivalent anymore.

I took a good look at this section of Tacul last Saturday, Jager is non-existent, just as approach gully for Modica/Gabarrou. No ice at all on the classic gullies of Lachenal either. If Geoff wants to get on moderate ice right now, Chéré is the only reasonable option, but he'll have to fight the crowds.

In reply to Alex Buisse: Yeah Chéré it might have to be. Climbed it before but it would be nice for my partner to second and a way to the summit of Triangle.

Whats the best way up maudit that i could take from the telefrique up and down in a day. (Kuffner a good bet, or too long for a day?) Will be doing it before the times change for winter.

Thanks for advice

In reply to geoff.comley:

Kuffner is doable bin to bin, but you need to be fast, efficient, and probably already acclimatized. Also to be avoided on too warm days, as you will be on the sketchy snow parts late in the day. Otherwise, fastest/safest way is via the 3 monts route, going for the summit after col du mont maudit. Bit boring and exposed to seracs/avalanches, but very easy to do bin to bin.