/ Eastern Grit v Western Grit grades

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snapperdan - on 08 Aug 2013
Been climbing trad for less than six months (indoors since last October) and I'm steady at VS and just starting to lead HVS and trying the odd E1.

I've mainly been climbing in the Chew Valley and other crags near that part of the Peak (Over the Moors guide area).

I'm off to Stanage at the weekend for the first time and want to find out how the grades compare there to places like the Chew - don't want to try and push my grade and end up sandbagged clinging on for dear life!!!!
Simon Caldwell - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to snapperdan:
Until OtM, Chew grades tended to include more than their fair share of sandbags. Many/most of these have been sorted in the new guide, though I'm sure there are still a few horrors lurking up there.
But to answer your question - you're unlikely to find Stanage grades harder than you're used to, possibly the reverse.
Skip - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to snapperdan:

Steady VS and beginning to lead HVS after less than six months!

What am i doing wrong?

:(
BnB - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to Skip: That's what I thought. I started in March and I'm getting used to FOLLOWING up VS. Only lead a couple at that grade and not yet ready to be steady!!
CurlyStevo - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to snapperdan:
Its not really just the grades that are easier on the East, I think the style of climbing tends to be a bit easier, often more horizontal breaks and ripples (so more rests / semi rests / gear), and the rock is in general slightly less sandy IMO.
Skip - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to BnB:

Maybe it's an age thing? Just checked your profile and you got into climbing at about the same age as me.
CurlyStevo - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to Skip:
I think progression to trying the odd E1 on lead after 6 months outdoor climbing and 1 year total climbing whilst not phenomenal is quite a bit above the norm.
snapperdan - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: Thanks! I'm a fellrunner too so the fitness from that has probably helped a bit.
BnB - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to Skip: Yep. Just taking our time to smell the roses on the way up, eh?
Al Evans on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to Skip:
> (In reply to snapperdan)
>
> Steady VS and beginning to lead HVS after less than six months!
>
> What am i doing wrong?
>
> :(

Climbing on indoor walls too much?
BnB - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Skip)
> [...]
>
> Climbing on indoor walls too much?

I rather thought the comment was meant slightly tongue in cheek. Surely if you're enjoying yourself you're not going completely wrong.
Skip - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Skip)
> [...]
>
> Climbing on indoor walls too much?


I very seldom use indoor walls (effectively never), maybe six times in the last year (max). I don't like indoor walls.

Jon Stewart - on 08 Aug 2013
In reply to snapperdan:

I think Eastern grades are easier than Western on average. Moorland grit can be particularly sandbaggy. Stanage Popular is also the spiritual home of the soft-touch E1, there are more than you can shake a a stick at. It seems that by quirk of fate there are lots of good routes with a short 5b crux that's not well protected. The other end of the crag is a different story.

But beware, not all the routes are soft at the grade, some sandbags lurk, even at the Popular end.
snapperdan - on 08 Aug 2013
Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm really enjoying my climbing on Moorland grit so far, but I thought I should venture to Stanage to see what all the fuss is about!
Jonny2vests - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Skip:
> (In reply to snapperdan)
>
> Steady VS and beginning to lead HVS after less than six months!
>
> What am i doing wrong?
>
> :(

Not climbing indoors enough?
Offwidth - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to snapperdan: Not all Stanage is popular you can get a bit of the Moorland feel by going to the quiet sections. Popular End classics are not far off a full grade easier than the tougher Moorland crags, before you even consider sandbag grades. This isnt always the case though: the odd Stanage Popular route is tough for the grade.
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snapperdan - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to snapperdan: Went to Stanage last Saturday felt pretty knackered after pushing my grade and failing on a couple of hard (for me) routes at Wilton and Anglezarke, so I just had a steady day leading HS and VS routes.

I wouldn't say they were all easier than places like the Chew but some were. The best routes were High Neb Buttress and Inaccessible Crack at Stanage High Neb. In fact Inaccessible Crack is one of the best VS routes I've done!

Can't wait to go back and try to push my grade got my eye on Goliath's Groove and Tower Face....

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