/ Scarpa Jorasses vs Phantoms / Baturas

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Brian Pollock - on 10 Aug 2013
I have managed to find a good deal on a pair of Scarpa Jorasses in my size. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts are on these boots for Scottish Winter, Summer Alps (mountaineering style and technical ice/mixed) and euro ice.

I am saving up for a pair of b3s but want to get something that is going to do all of the above well. My preference was originally for something like the Phantom Guide/Ultras or Sportiva Baturas.

Any thoughts on how the older Jorasses stand up to these more modern boots?
Jayhigh - on 11 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

FWIW, for Euro ice and Scottish winter, I really rate my older model Batura's; but they're overkill for summer Alpine stuff - they're too warm for most of the time.

But unless you're in the high Alps in winter, I'd have thought the Jorasses would do quite well.
davy_boy - on 11 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: I currently have jorasses and are my go to boot for most things there light and climb well the only downside to them is there not as warm as phantoms/baturas so if your planning lots of Scottish winter multipitch then you might suffer cold feet on long belays ie around the hour mark for me. if its more a general mountaineering boot or mixed climbing boot then these are hard to beat in my opinion. I even use mine in the summer for scrambling or easy summer alpine stuff.
Cameron94 on 11 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: I really rate my phantoms, they are brilliant boots if they fit you well.

I used them for everything from grade I romps to IV mixed and it certinally wasn't them holding me back... They held up well to a winter season in the Cuillin with no real signs of use other than a bit grubby with dirt.

I've not used them in the Alps yet but I've used them on rock up to HS and found them alright but not ideal for that kind of grade obviously.

I find them a pretty warm boot for Scottish winter unless they are laced super tight. I've not belayed for more than 50 minutes but up to that they've been excellent.

I can't fault them other than than the dyneema laces which I'm not the biggest fan of, because they are thin they hurt like a bugger when your fingers are cold.

Anything else you're interested in?

Brian Pollock - on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

I think I'm now leaning toward the Jorasses because they are about 200+ cheaper than the new baturas or phantom guides.

Does anyone have any experience using Jorasses on long multipitch technical ice/mixed routes, including summer alpine and Scottish Winter?

If money was no object I'd get the Batura 2.0s as a do anything lightweight but warm boot that excels on steep technical ground. But if the Jorasses will do the same job I can't justify that sort of money.

I'm also in the market for new crampons for the Jorasses if I get them. I currently have G12s but was looking at Petzl Lynx, BD Cyborg or G14s. Again anyone have experience with this boot/crampon combo?
NottsRich on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: Hi Brian, how you doing?

I've got Jorasses and really like them, but I've not got a lot to compare them to. I find them warm enough for Scottish winter (never tested standing still for more than an hour or so though...) and they were fine in the Alps. They seem quite light compared to other boots I've picked up.



Out of interest, what crampons do people use with them? I use BD Cyborg Pros with narrow toe bails. They're an ok fit, but not perfect by any means.
RyanOsborne - on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: For my Jorasses (size 44 I think), the BD Cyborg Pros, with asymmetrical bars fit perfect. I've got G12s, and they're alright for general mountaineering stuff, but the toe of the boot sticks out over the front points a bit.
Gazlynn - on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

I owned a pair of Jorasses which I thought came out about the same time as the Phantom guides so are not an old boot.

I only had them for about 3 or 4 Scottish winter outings and changed to the Phantom Guides.

The Jorasses where as warm as the Guides but felt a little more clunky and not as precise as the Guides.

The main reason I swapped one for the other is that I had quite bad heel lift with the Jorasses but to be fair to the boots I bought them a little to big as I had to go down a half size with the guides.

I know it's the age old advice but try them on and see what fits best for you.

Hope this helps

cheers

Gaz

Brian Pollock - on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Unfortunately I was too slow. My size has sold out but if anyone is after a pair of jorasses for 170 check out snow and rock.

Back to the drawing board.

Now looking at Batura 2.0s, Phantom Guides/ Ultras and the new Rebel Ultras. Unfortunately all ridiculously expensive but I suppose I'll have to bite the bullet.
NottsRich on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to RyanOsborne: Do you not have a gap between the side of the boot and the front bail, on each side? I've got a gap of around 3-4mm on each side and I notice the boot moving across slightly when walking across angled snow/ice, meaning the boot slides sideways in the binding a bit and rolls my ankles. It was worse with the wider (original) bails.
davy_boy - on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: currently using petzl vasak crampons on my jorasses and there a perfect fit. used to have g12 before and these did have a slight side movement on the front bail also the front points didn't stick out the full length.
fil-p - on 12 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: I've got the ultras, then bought the guides with them being warmer. Out of the 2 id go for the guides as they're only slightly heavier but the warmth pays off
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Mr Poo - on 16 Aug 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Hey Buddy,

I am running Sportiva Nepals at the moment and have 2 pairs of crampons, depending on what I am doing is what I will pull out.
the G12 are the best general mtn crampon, I also own a pair of BD Cyborgs for ice. I hate these crampons, if I was to buy again I would go for the G14, they are a little heavier BUT the ABS works a shit loads better and they are easier to swap between mono ad dual point if you would llike to do that.

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