/ Anasazi Verde.

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Malt_Loaf - on 13 Aug 2013
Hi,

I'd be wondering for a while what the fuss was all about with Anasazis...now that I've bought a pair, I understand. I got the greens because I climb on a vast array of rock types, if I climbed on slate all the time I may have gone for the whites but the greens seem more all-round, good on grit but still hold well on small edges.

I must say, they are awesome. They feel completely stable on small edges as well as smears and everything in between! Perhaps I shouldn't have waited so long to get some...tempted to get a loser fitting pair to replace my battered multi-pitch shoes, too!

If you're looking for some new shoes, I'd definitely check them out! Just as good as everyone suggests.

ML.
drolex - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: I have a mixed feeling about them: I find them incredibly comfy the first hour or so and then more painful than any other shoes I have ever tried, including the boot full of pins my borther once prepared for me as a joke.

Love them for short sessions, hate them for long days out.
drolex - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to drolex: I add that if you look at the right shoe from above, it looks like Hitler (that's a fact) - given the possible anagrams with the name, it is highly disturbing.
Malt_Loaf - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to drolex: Can't comment on how they feel after longer sessions, they're my sinlge/short multi-pich shoe-For short sessions they're comfy and really technical/stable on almost anything..imo, anyway.

Currently have a battered pair of Scarpas for longer multi-pitches,Im tempted to get a baggier Verde to replace them OR some Anasazi VCS- any experience of them?

ML.
pebbles - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: absolutely love mine...until now. just bought a new pair in the identical size,or so I thought. although the size on the label is the same as my old ones they are excruciatingly tight. currently trying to stretch them (wore them in the bath, then wore while damp)has anyone ever had any success doing this? it seems to have made no impact at all! they are bad enough that if I cant stretch them I will have to bite the bullet and resell the bloody things
Troy Tempest - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
I love them, but people either seem to get on great with them, or they hate them.

I put mine through the washing machine once when they were particularly filthy, the rubber came out like blu-tak. It was amazing, they stuck to anything.
Malt_Loaf - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to pebbles: That's really strange! I took a bit of a punt and bought an 8, they were brand new, never worn for 55 so I thought it was worth a shot. They fit absolutely bob on!

Hope you manage to stretch them out :(
Malt_Loaf - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Barry Chuckle: Yes, seems so- I love mine from what I've seen so far.

I've heard washing them makes the rubber sticky..wasn't sure whether it was just a myth!

ML.
Troy Tempest - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
Only for a little while, but yes, it does.
Grigor on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
> Currently have a battered pair of Scarpas for longer multi-pitches,Im tempted to get a baggier Verde to replace them OR some Anasazi VCS- any experience of them?
>
> ML.

Before you rush to buy a second pair I'd highly recommend giving the heel pocket on the current pair some time to 'relax'. My VCS's went from nippy to very comfortable over the first month or two of regular climbing.

You might not have the same experience with yours but it changed my purchase plan. I was going to buy a loose pair for multi-pitch but the first pair became comfortable and now (as they wear) are even better. At some stage I'll just buy a fresh pair when the current ones stop edging as well.
Malt_Loaf - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Grigor: These, at present, would be a bit tight for long multi-pitch- not a problem, I bought them for shorter sessions where I'm pushing my grade but I may take your advice and give them awhile to stretch and see if I can get away with using them for longer days too!

Cheers,
ML.
pebbles - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: the difference isnt just marginal, its as if they are a whole size smaller, although I cant see that much difference in the sole length, I think it may be the heel cup being much more pull-forward-y ((sure there must be a proper term for that). or maybe although the sole is approx the same size the upper material has been cut smaller - beats me really. but thats the last time I go into a shop and think "these feel very tight but these are the same as I had last time so theyre bound to loosen"
Malt_Loaf - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to pebbles: Very strange, I guess every shoe feels different even when labelled the same size! I'll be sure to remember not to do the same when come to replacing these!

If it's the heel cup, that looks like it has the potential to loosen after a while...

Ml.
dr_botnik - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to pebbles: Bit of the legendary 5.10 quality control there. I've often found quite vast size difference in the moccasym range, but then they were different batches years apart with different coloured pull cords. I think when you get two left foots in a boot that's down to the distributer (incidentally this has also happened to me with 5.10s!!!)
pebbles - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to dr_botnik: actually managed to keep the bastard things on for a 2 hoyr bouldering session (with the occaisional few minutes shoeless rest) so maybe I'll tame them yet...
KingStapo - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to pebbles:

I had the whites and they were murder for about the first 4 weeks, then one day they tamed my feet (it was more them breaking my feet than the converse). Then they were fine.

I now have the Anasazi LVs and they're effing epic, right out of the box; great fit, great rubber, really good on little edges. I'll be buying another pair when they go through.
SGD - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to pebbles: Ive had similar issues with verdes with the same size tags feeling like different shoes. I tried on 3 different pairs in the same shop all from different batches and they all felt different. 1 pair was incredibly painfull and the other 2 were very similar but the one pair felt softer so I plumbed for the stiffer shoe. I did all this because I was stung buying a pair in my size online which felt like flippers, they were at least a full size to big.

still love them though
timstyles - on 13 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
> ...tempted to get a loser fitting pair to replace my battered multi-pitch shoes, too!

If you're looking for a second pair for less technical climbing, a different shoe might be better than a a looser pair of verdes. Otherwise you'll end up with a baggy heel. Dick's climbing in Bristol recommended Evolv Bandits to me as a cheaper, less aggressive shoe with a similar shape to the verde. I've been very happy with them and now only use the verdes for bouldering and short climbs where I think I'll notice the difference. Your local climbing shop should suggest some alternatives.
mrlucky on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: I have replaced my velcros and verdes ,the heels are a lot less aggressive on both new pairs.this makes the fit completely different to the ones I replaced.
execlimber - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to pebbles: Yup exactly the same thing happened to me. Had a 9 for years. Absolutely spot on. Popped in to grab a new pair, size 9 again. The bloody things are so much smaller and the uppers are synthetic now. So no stretch at all. I tried the bath thing,the fold them up thing etc etc. All have failed.
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