/ Costa Blanca recommendations for this October

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gilliesp on 15 Aug 2013
Five of us, in various stages of ability, fitness and decay, are booked on a flight to Alicante in October. For five days we hope to sports climb (mainly routes graded 4, 5, 5+, some 6 maybe) but with at least a day's trad climbing on a multi pitch 'mountain' route. Some older and recent but relevant UKC posts have been perused and we have had a look at Costa Blanca guides eg Rockfax. But we are looking for specific suggestions, based on some of your personal experiences, regarding your favourite crags, destinations, climbing base, accommodation especially, even car hire. If you've been there in recent years any heads up, information, advice would be appreciated. Thanks in anticipation. The old geezers.
cliff shasby - on 15 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp: go to montesa,its the nearest thing spain has to grit !.
gilliesp on 15 Aug 2013
In reply to cliff shasby:

Tormo Gros and Paret De La Mola look very worthy of consideration. Did you stay nearby? Cheers
Dave Ferguson - on 15 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp:
Our group of old/middle age giffers go out every easter. Have stayed in Benidorm the last 4 years and we love it, central for the crags, you can get on the motorway really easily. Cheap appartments, cheap food, eat out every night, just as cheap as cooking and there's the "evening entertainment" that only the dorm can provide, should you want it. The naysayers will say its cheap and tacky - but thats exactly why we go!

Get your car hire off site from the airport, its cheaper and you're not faced with enormous queues to get your hire car. A minibus will collect you and take you a couple of miles out to pick your car up and bring you back.

Loads of sports crags, one of the few we always go back to is Guadalest
as its got lots of great routes in the 5's and 6's. The Penon for multipitch is great but easy routes are polished, echo valley or the Puig are the other obvious choices. Enjoy - we do.
In reply to gilliesp:
A good place to go is Alcalali in the Jalon valley. There is a good little guide on the <www.rock-topos.com> web site. Lots of stuff in the 4 to 6a range
jamie ward - on 15 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp: 1 -Dossing in your hire car for a week and biving is a good cheap option as there are not that many campsites in Blanca 2 - Cheap digs in Benidorm is a good base next to the motorway and quite central 3 - Rent an apartment although this can be costly and you will hardly use it as you generally start early and come back late.

For Multi-pitch adventure with a remote mountain setting - Leyva is an awesome place and you can get away with camping in the park if your discreet - Carrillo-Cantabella 5+ Carnaval 6a+ (about 3 meters of 6a+ the rest is easy) are brill routes.

Multi-pitch trad - Puig Campana- Espolon Central 4+ (HS) Every pitch is excellent and well protected, start early! Also Diedros Magicos 6a if your felling adventurous - Can Bivi in car park.

Multi- Pitch - Adventurous at Mascarat Gorge with cars whizzing below in an awesome setting - Boulder Terminar 5 + Llobet Bertomeu 5 + and G.E.D.E 6a are all excellent routes

Penon De Ifach - Diedro UBSA 5+ Sustained and excellent, a bit polished but doesn't detract, hard bits are short lived and no extra gear needed as its well bolted

Sierra De Toix - excellent single/multi-pitch routes and soft grading
Marin - Excellent single pitch - Watch out for snakes tho!
Sella - Excellent but busy on weekends
Echo - Excellent but some routes not as well bolted as other sectors

Hope this helps? I persuaded the in-laws to move out there 6 years ago so I get out there a fair bit now - Have a great trip
gilliesp on 15 Aug 2013
In reply to jamie ward: And Dave and Bob:

You've given us things to look at and discuss. Much appreciated.
cliff shasby - on 16 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp: no,the otherside of the costa blanca..!
Sam Mayfield - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp:

Hi Guys

not sure if you have sorted accommodation yet but Orange House in Finestrat is very busy in Oct already, I think the second week is fully booked with only camping left.

We have free topos on our website, you need to email me for a password but feel free to download and take a look.

We have new accommodation at Sella under construction, that will not be open in Oct more like December, however we have been busy this summer with new routing, trad and Sport routes at all grades.

http://theorangehouse.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Orange-House/267418710706

Sam Orange
gilliesp on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Thanks Sam. Looks like Dodgy Dave our travel/accomm man will have been in touch with you by now. He is a frequent visitor to Orange House and speaks well of it. Look forward to seeing you.
Sam Mayfield - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp:

I did wonder if you were part of the groups already booked.

Don't worry about info about the climbing over here the house will be full of folk who "know it all" lol

See you soon.

Sam Orange
Andy Fielding - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp:

Make the effort to drive down to La Panocha. Some good routes on the South Face even though when you first arrive the conglomerate will not fill you with confidence.
icnoble on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to gilliesp: I second Montessa, some great climbing in a great setting.
ads.ukclimbing.com
gilliesp on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to icnoble: & others

Will look into recent suggestions. Lots of passion for some sites. Obviously much to choose from for a five day trip. Many thanks for them.

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