This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Having gone clipless for a few weeks. It feels like my legs are constantly pulled in a direction that is not natural to them. This has been causing me pain on the front and inside of my knee. I have tired moving the saddle front and back and up and down, no enjoy.
I’ve had knee pain in the past and takes forever to clear up, I don’t want to risk this again.
So I’ve gone back to flats, arriving tomorrow, in time i may fit cages too! can’t wait no more toppling over at the lights!
I’ve had knee pain in the past and takes forever to clear up, I don’t want to risk this again.
So I’ve gone back to flats, arriving tomorrow, in time i may fit cages too! can’t wait no more toppling over at the lights!
In reply to goldmember: pain most likely caused by cleat alignment, if you were comfy on flats, there shouldnt be any need to adjust seat, the only thing you changed was pedals,
What clip pedal system are you using?
What clip pedal system are you using?
In reply to gear boy: I've measured, re-measured and measured again. the cleats are but plumb. I changed bike then added the spds.
they are SPD m-530, the kick out, twist exit is also fairly uncomfortable on the knees.
they are SPD m-530, the kick out, twist exit is also fairly uncomfortable on the knees.
In reply to goldmember: Don't measure the cleats, your feet aren't aligned perfectly so the cleats shouldn't be either. It is a trial and error usually to get the right balance of toe in toe out and fore aft positioning. Moving the cleats further back usually helps for general riding, further forwards if you like to use your calf muscles more i.e. when sprinting or dancing on the pedals.
In reply to goldmember: Shimano pedals are well known for being hard to get used to for people that havn't used clips. Get some egg beaters from Crank Bros, much easier to release and with more float, they're also easier to engage.
In reply to mark catcher: Cheers pal, i thinking egg beaters or speedplay's but seems to have more float. But my bank balance wont allow it ATM. Also I didnt much different in terms of speed between spds and my old cages.
In reply to Guy: I have then cleats set up under the balls on my feet. I have has the cleats pointing out to match my natural duck foot style of walking. Now they are in line.
In reply to mark catcher:
Ditto but Time pedals for me.
> (In reply to goldmember) Shimano pedals are well known for being hard to get used to for people that havn't used clips. Get some egg beaters from Crank Bros, much easier to release and with more float, they're also easier to engage.
Ditto but Time pedals for me.
In reply to mark catcher:
Agree with your comments about Crank Brothers Eggbeaters, I guesstimate about 10° of float either way which means you can get comfy
They also release well so no traffic light panic moments.
> (In reply to goldmember) Shimano pedals are well known for being hard to get used to for people that havn't used clips. Get some egg beaters from Crank Bros, much easier to release and with more float, they're also easier to engage.
Agree with your comments about Crank Brothers Eggbeaters, I guesstimate about 10° of float either way which means you can get comfy
They also release well so no traffic light panic moments.
In reply to goldmember:
I had a bit of knee pain on longer rides (100km+) and though it might be the lack of float in my cleats (grey Look KEO). The guy in my LBS recommended sitting on a high table with legs dangling down for a few minutes and then glancing down to see how they naturally angled. Then, adjusting the angle of the cleats to mimic this angle rather than buying cleats with more float (which apparently can cause more problems than they solve)
I had a bit of knee pain on longer rides (100km+) and though it might be the lack of float in my cleats (grey Look KEO). The guy in my LBS recommended sitting on a high table with legs dangling down for a few minutes and then glancing down to see how they naturally angled. Then, adjusting the angle of the cleats to mimic this angle rather than buying cleats with more float (which apparently can cause more problems than they solve)
In reply to goldmember: OK, should be a fair amount of float on those, if possible while riding feel how much float you have either way of your standard riding position, then adjust cleat to suit so you are as central as possible
Stiffness in new springs for release, assume they are wound back fully, spray some lube on them, they will soften with use, other option is a multi direction release cleat, these will release with a firm upward pull too
there is another possibility which is causing you some pain and that would be CANT, sometimes this needs to be adjusted, harder on an SPD but possible on the footbed, try other things first though
Stiffness in new springs for release, assume they are wound back fully, spray some lube on them, they will soften with use, other option is a multi direction release cleat, these will release with a firm upward pull too
there is another possibility which is causing you some pain and that would be CANT, sometimes this needs to be adjusted, harder on an SPD but possible on the footbed, try other things first though
In reply to FrankBooth:
that's a good tip
the other i would add, is slacken off the release tension a bit if knees are sore
that's a good tip
the other i would add, is slacken off the release tension a bit if knees are sore
What do you mean by float? How much my legs can move?
If so i can move my legs plenty, but I feel like they are being pushed back into line with the pedals.
I looked at the multi direction cleats, but they seem pointless if you can’t pull up on the pedals. May just stick to flats or cages.
I tried to get used to the pedals building up the KM's gradually
That’s how I tried to set up my cleats at first dangling legs over a table.
If so i can move my legs plenty, but I feel like they are being pushed back into line with the pedals.
I looked at the multi direction cleats, but they seem pointless if you can’t pull up on the pedals. May just stick to flats or cages.
I tried to get used to the pedals building up the KM's gradually
That’s how I tried to set up my cleats at first dangling legs over a table.
In reply to goldmember: Slacken the adjustments on the pedals. I started out with mine really slack and would sometimes come unclipped when riding, but it gave me the confidence to get used to them and the comfort to make adjustments to the angle as needed. I have them tighter now. If yours feel like they are pulling your feet it sounds like they are way too tight.
In reply to goldmember:
I have the same issue. You can also move SPD cleats left or right. There is an article on bikeradar.com. It seems to work for me on the few km I've ridden since the adjustment.
I have the same issue. You can also move SPD cleats left or right. There is an article on bikeradar.com. It seems to work for me on the few km I've ridden since the adjustment.
In reply to Martin1978: cheer Martin. The pedals are as loose at they can be. The unclipping movement is just not very comfortable on the knee
In reply to goldmember:
In line should be better - you're not walking are you so that should have nothing to do with it. Above all you don't want to put any twist in you knees due to misalignment - that's what'll cause the pain.
Float is how much you can move your feet when clipped in. As mentioned, wind down the tension.
In line should be better - you're not walking are you so that should have nothing to do with it. Above all you don't want to put any twist in you knees due to misalignment - that's what'll cause the pain.
Float is how much you can move your feet when clipped in. As mentioned, wind down the tension.
In reply to Calder: http://www.getprice.com.au/images/uploadimg/2459/PD-M520W.jpg here are the pedals (same colour too) i have turned that screw anti clockwise as far as it will go, is that the tension screw?
In reply to goldmember:
I've used spds for years with no problems. Just switched to spd-sl with new pedals and shoes. Mild discomfort in one knee. Just means I need to make minor adjustments to the angle the cleat is set at during the next ride.
The tip about dangling your feet is a good one.
Small adjustments make a big difference.
I've used spds for years with no problems. Just switched to spd-sl with new pedals and shoes. Mild discomfort in one knee. Just means I need to make minor adjustments to the angle the cleat is set at during the next ride.
The tip about dangling your feet is a good one.
Small adjustments make a big difference.
In reply to gear boy:
Saddle height may need to change, sole to axle dimensions will be different.......
> (In reply to goldmember) ..... there shouldnt be any need to adjust seat, the only thing you changed was pedals,
>
> What clip pedal system are you using?
>
> What clip pedal system are you using?
Saddle height may need to change, sole to axle dimensions will be different.......
In reply to Dark-Cloud:
>sole to axle dimensions will be different.......
You have lost me
> (In reply to gear boy)
> [...]
>
> Saddle height may need to change,
Get this bit. > [...]
>
> Saddle height may need to change,
>sole to axle dimensions will be different.......
You have lost me
In reply to Tim Davies:
As i said above, you may need to change your saddle height, your legs are big levers and a few mm difference in pedal to axle will mean raising or lowering depending on what you change to/from to knee things the same.
> (In reply to goldmember)
>
> I've used spds for years with no problems. Just switched to spd-sl with new pedals and shoes. Mild discomfort in one knee. Just means I need to make minor adjustments to the angle the cleat is set at during the next ride.
>
> The tip about dangling your feet is a good one.
>
> Small adjustments make a big difference.
>
> I've used spds for years with no problems. Just switched to spd-sl with new pedals and shoes. Mild discomfort in one knee. Just means I need to make minor adjustments to the angle the cleat is set at during the next ride.
>
> The tip about dangling your feet is a good one.
>
> Small adjustments make a big difference.
As i said above, you may need to change your saddle height, your legs are big levers and a few mm difference in pedal to axle will mean raising or lowering depending on what you change to/from to knee things the same.
In reply to Tim Davies: Its not worth me risking damaging my knees. Until i get it spot on
In reply to goldmember: Distance from the centre of the pedal axle to the sole of your shoe, its different depending on which pedal system you use.
In reply to goldmember:
The benefit of pulling up on the pedals is a myth that has been exploded by a number of studies. It's more accurate to think of clipless pedals allowing you to push through the top part of the pedal stroke (ie before the crank reaches the vertical) and pull through the bottom part. But pulling up is biomechanically counter-productive (except perhaps for very short bursts of power). You should be able to find plenty of information about this by Googling and generally reading around. Here's one (two-part) article to get you started:
http://www.over40cyclist.com/correct-pedalling-technique/
http://www.over40cyclist.com/correct-pedalling-technique-part-2/
Some people will claim that they go faster using clipless pedals ergo it must be the pulling up that's making them faster. That's arguing from a flawed premise ie that pulling up increases efficiency. They probably aren't even pulling up at all, although they might well be weighting the pedal less on the upstroke than they would if they weren't using clipless pedals (very likely because there is less risk of the foot coming off the pedal when they're clipped in).
> I looked at the multi direction cleats, but they seem pointless if you can’t pull up on the pedals.
The benefit of pulling up on the pedals is a myth that has been exploded by a number of studies. It's more accurate to think of clipless pedals allowing you to push through the top part of the pedal stroke (ie before the crank reaches the vertical) and pull through the bottom part. But pulling up is biomechanically counter-productive (except perhaps for very short bursts of power). You should be able to find plenty of information about this by Googling and generally reading around. Here's one (two-part) article to get you started:
http://www.over40cyclist.com/correct-pedalling-technique/
http://www.over40cyclist.com/correct-pedalling-technique-part-2/
Some people will claim that they go faster using clipless pedals ergo it must be the pulling up that's making them faster. That's arguing from a flawed premise ie that pulling up increases efficiency. They probably aren't even pulling up at all, although they might well be weighting the pedal less on the upstroke than they would if they weren't using clipless pedals (very likely because there is less risk of the foot coming off the pedal when they're clipped in).
In reply to Martin W: I concur, pulling up is VERY bad pedalling technique.
In reply to FrankBooth:
Yup; that's exactly the technique I'd recommend. Get the cleats aligned so your feet are in a natural, neutral position.
The alternative is to cycle with a pair of normal pedals, to observe the natural angle of the foot.
<I confess that I think of things like SPDs and Egg-beaters to be pedals with clips, but it seems the road biking community call them clipless...>
> The guy in my LBS recommended sitting on a high table with legs dangling down for a few minutes and then glancing down to see how they naturally angled
Yup; that's exactly the technique I'd recommend. Get the cleats aligned so your feet are in a natural, neutral position.
The alternative is to cycle with a pair of normal pedals, to observe the natural angle of the foot.
<I confess that I think of things like SPDs and Egg-beaters to be pedals with clips, but it seems the road biking community call them clipless...>
In reply to captain paranoia:
Not old enough or been riding long enough then !
It's referring to pedals without the old style toe clip and strap, hence clipless....
> (In reply to FrankBooth)
>
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> <I confess that I think of things like SPDs and Egg-beaters to be pedals with clips, but it seems the road biking community call them clipless...>
> <I confess that I think of things like SPDs and Egg-beaters to be pedals with clips, but it seems the road biking community call them clipless...>
Not old enough or been riding long enough then !
It's referring to pedals without the old style toe clip and strap, hence clipless....
In reply to goldmember:
>sole to axle dimensions will be different.......
Adding cleats, or simply changing shoes or pedals to something with a different thickness can change the distance between the sole of your foot and the saddle. That's why you may need to change the saddle height to compensate.
>sole to axle dimensions will be different.......
> You have lost me
Adding cleats, or simply changing shoes or pedals to something with a different thickness can change the distance between the sole of your foot and the saddle. That's why you may need to change the saddle height to compensate.
In reply to Dark-Cloud:
Only 50 years old, and 45 years riding a bike...
I've always called them 'cages', not clips. Or have I.... Thinks back to 'toe clips'. Hmmm... Memory fading, then...
> It's referring to pedals without the old style toe clip and strap, hence clipless....
Only 50 years old, and 45 years riding a bike...
I've always called them 'cages', not clips. Or have I.... Thinks back to 'toe clips'. Hmmm... Memory fading, then...
In reply to captain paranoia: We used to call them "rat trips" when I was a youngster. Or was that just the pedals?
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...