/ Bernia ridge, costa blanca

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mook456 - on 24 Aug 2013
I'm heading to the costa blanca in October for sports climbing but we also fancy doing the bernia ridge whilst we are there. Our guide book recommends taking a vary small rack however I have read on numerous websites that only quick draws are required as the route is bolted. Any advice from anyone who has done it recently would be greatly appreciated.

Martin Bennett - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to markymark31:

There's really only one pitch of climbing "proper". It's a traverse along a ridge with a bolt every two feet - you won't need to clip them all, I'm sure, so 3 or 4 quickdraws should be fine. Apart from that I only recall a few equipped abseils and a great deal of enjoyment and great views.
mook456 - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Martin Bennett: cheers. So for the trickier scrambly bits moving together and clipping the odd bolt will do? Or do people tend to solo it? From what I've seen in books etc it looks like a great day out with fantastic views as you say
Rick Graham on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Thats spot on.

All new fixed gear and more appearing everytime I have done it.

Only one abseil essential ( I have not found a way past it yet ) , about 15-20 m so 40m rope required.

Hardest pitch 4+ I think and OK in trainers or you can pull on a draw or two.

Most folk go East to West. Best day out is full ridge traversing E + W summits. 5 hours round trip from the Cafe at a steady pace if you are finding the climbing easy. Allow 8 if you are nervous. Route finding is easy if you spot the red paint.

Ryan Glass website has a fuller description, but you dont really need any more info than on this post, apart from finding the easy way off the West Summit.
Donnie - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to markymark31: My girlfriend and I attempted the ridge in June, but came across a herd of mountain goats on a narrow bit of the ridge and couldn't get past. Waited a good hour and decided we'd need to go back so had to climb back up the abseil. The climbing wasn't too hard but you wouldn't want to solo it.... I was delighted to have a a few wires.
mook456 - on 24 Aug 2013
Thanks for the replies. I suppose throwing a few nuts in the bag won't hurt, also god to chuck at the mountain goats if they get in the way!
Just out of interest did you solo the scramble sections or move together ?
Donnie - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to markymark31: We soloed the scrambling, which was fine. We only got about a quarter of the way along though.
A Mountain Journey - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to markymark31: Done this a couple of times. Soloed most of it no problem. We only took quickdraws (about 8) and abseil kit. 40 metre rope would be ideal. The climbing sections are obvious, first bit is just extremely exposed scrambling but worth getting the rope out. 2nd bit is about grade 4, very nice and plenty bolts, doable in trainers but does feel much harder (as you might expect).
Worth having a bit of tat as the bolts on the 2nd abseil aren't the best (that was the case in january), so could back it up if needs be.

There's a few photos and notes in the below blog posts, might be useful:


Have a great time.

mook456 - on 24 Aug 2013
Thanks all for the info and links. Much appreciated. Roll on October......

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