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Just two really basic questions for you all.
Alot of skis I'm seeing around have the bindings really far back on the ski, instead of the middle, is there any reason for this?
I'm looking at some new skis currently. I'm on fritschi bindings but want to loose a bit of weight on the set up. This is leading me to dynafit, but I also do a bit of piste skiing on the same set up (maybe one week per year), is this a bad idea? Are there any other major downsides to dynafit?
Alot of skis I'm seeing around have the bindings really far back on the ski, instead of the middle, is there any reason for this?
I'm looking at some new skis currently. I'm on fritschi bindings but want to loose a bit of weight on the set up. This is leading me to dynafit, but I also do a bit of piste skiing on the same set up (maybe one week per year), is this a bad idea? Are there any other major downsides to dynafit?
In reply to dutybooty:
Are you used to skiing twin tips, or something similar? Seems to me that most touring skis with a flat tail have a pretty conventional mounting point. Adding a rockered and tapered tail will push it forwards a bit, and there's also a bit of a trend among some manufacturers for skis that reward a much more centred and upright stance, but I don't think that's quite common place yet? Which skis were you thinking of?
I don't like skiing Fritschis at all, and don't really like skiing dynafits on piste unless there's been lots of snow and even then I don't really want to wear out my expensive touring bindings prematurely by doing lots of lift-served laps. I also don't really like using my lightweight touring skis on pistes either.
You could get a piste-specific (or at least a dedicated in-resort) ski with alpine bindings on it. You could get your skis fitted with binding freedom swap plates (though they don't make any that fit Fritschis, they're find for Dynafits), or get binding inserts fitted. Either of those will let you swap bindings in a couple of minutes, and there are a few places in the UK that'll do binding insert mounts for you if you weren't willing to do it yourself!
Are you used to skiing twin tips, or something similar? Seems to me that most touring skis with a flat tail have a pretty conventional mounting point. Adding a rockered and tapered tail will push it forwards a bit, and there's also a bit of a trend among some manufacturers for skis that reward a much more centred and upright stance, but I don't think that's quite common place yet? Which skis were you thinking of?
I don't like skiing Fritschis at all, and don't really like skiing dynafits on piste unless there's been lots of snow and even then I don't really want to wear out my expensive touring bindings prematurely by doing lots of lift-served laps. I also don't really like using my lightweight touring skis on pistes either.
You could get a piste-specific (or at least a dedicated in-resort) ski with alpine bindings on it. You could get your skis fitted with binding freedom swap plates (though they don't make any that fit Fritschis, they're find for Dynafits), or get binding inserts fitted. Either of those will let you swap bindings in a couple of minutes, and there are a few places in the UK that'll do binding insert mounts for you if you weren't willing to do it yourself!
In reply to dutybooty:
I started on Fritschis and went to dynafits for the last 2 seasons. I have skied quite a lot on piste with them and can't understand why some folks think this is a no-no. Unless perhaps you are 16 stone and into jumping cliffs.
The only down side of Dynafits in my experience is that they are slightly more awkward to get into but you soon get used to them.
As for mounting, the binding might look far back on the ski but its in the middle of the camber/sidecut to facilitate turning. Those that do tricks and ski backwards tend to mount bindings mid ski.
I started on Fritschis and went to dynafits for the last 2 seasons. I have skied quite a lot on piste with them and can't understand why some folks think this is a no-no. Unless perhaps you are 16 stone and into jumping cliffs.
The only down side of Dynafits in my experience is that they are slightly more awkward to get into but you soon get used to them.
As for mounting, the binding might look far back on the ski but its in the middle of the camber/sidecut to facilitate turning. Those that do tricks and ski backwards tend to mount bindings mid ski.
In reply to dutybooty:
If you're only doing a week or so a year on your dynafits I don't see a problem. I ski my volkl shiros (~150 underfoot fat skis) on plum bindings on piste all the time without issue.
Go for it, you'll love the weight saving of the dynafit along with the solid feeling they give.
If you're only doing a week or so a year on your dynafits I don't see a problem. I ski my volkl shiros (~150 underfoot fat skis) on plum bindings on piste all the time without issue.
Go for it, you'll love the weight saving of the dynafit along with the solid feeling they give.
In reply to Dave Kerr:
I wouldn't recommend dynafits for that, either
Fritschis just felt odd to me. Maybe it was the height they leave you off the ski compared to alpine bindings, or maybe it was the slight floatiness you get at the heel cos of the way its fastened, or the slight twistiness of the binding lengthways. I guess you can get used to anything, if you wanted to.
In reply to uncdunc:
More like 120! I assume you're somewhere that gets reliable snowfall and the pistes are nice and soft?
> Unless perhaps you are 16 stone and into jumping cliffs.
I wouldn't recommend dynafits for that, either
Fritschis just felt odd to me. Maybe it was the height they leave you off the ski compared to alpine bindings, or maybe it was the slight floatiness you get at the heel cos of the way its fastened, or the slight twistiness of the binding lengthways. I guess you can get used to anything, if you wanted to.
In reply to uncdunc:
> (In reply to dutybooty)
> If you're only doing a week or so a year on your dynafits I don't see a problem. I ski my volkl shiros (~150 underfoot fat skis) on plum bindings on piste all the time without issue.
> If you're only doing a week or so a year on your dynafits I don't see a problem. I ski my volkl shiros (~150 underfoot fat skis) on plum bindings on piste all the time without issue.
More like 120! I assume you're somewhere that gets reliable snowfall and the pistes are nice and soft?
In reply to dutybooty:
I think the whole Fritschi vs Dynafit issue is a red herring. I know guides in both camps, their choice of binding is not a constraint on their skiing or ski touring ability. If you are choosing new skis then their construction and design will have a much greater impact on the total weight of the set up, and on your piste, off piste skiing and touring performance. Only real downside to Dynafit is that you need to have boots with pinholes (but you knew that)
I think the whole Fritschi vs Dynafit issue is a red herring. I know guides in both camps, their choice of binding is not a constraint on their skiing or ski touring ability. If you are choosing new skis then their construction and design will have a much greater impact on the total weight of the set up, and on your piste, off piste skiing and touring performance. Only real downside to Dynafit is that you need to have boots with pinholes (but you knew that)
In reply to kevin stephens:
Perhaps, but whapping a set of dynafits on them will always save you a kilo plus over Fritschis.
> (In reply to dutybooty)
>
> If you are choosing new skis then their construction and design will have a much greater impact on the total weight of the set up,
>
> If you are choosing new skis then their construction and design will have a much greater impact on the total weight of the set up,
Perhaps, but whapping a set of dynafits on them will always save you a kilo plus over Fritschis.
In reply to DaveHK: If you add brakes to Dynafits (a good idea on piste!) the weight difference will be less
In reply to kevin stephens:
The weights I was working off included brakes.
It comes down to whether you think that about a kilo (or more if you go for the lighter tech bindings) is a worthwhile weight saving. Personally I do. Others are less bothered.
The weights I was working off included brakes.
It comes down to whether you think that about a kilo (or more if you go for the lighter tech bindings) is a worthwhile weight saving. Personally I do. Others are less bothered.
Dynafit vs. Fritschi advantage is lower stack height and lifted weight, Alpine release vs Dynafit is about three dimensional release range. Tendency for lots of daft little falls = safer knees with Alpine, otherwise, Dynafits are good to go anywhere.
In reply to dutybooty:
1. You can't get into the binding in deep snow. ('Cos you can't see the tiddly pins)
2. You can't get into the binding on hard ice on a steep slope. ('Cos the fiddly pins need pressure to activate and the ski slips sideways)
3. You can't get into the binding when it is balled up (all the time when in fresh wet snow (Scottish conditions) (Balls up more than any other binding as the heel unit stays on the ski and is dragged through the snow all the time, with no clearing-tap when the heel comes down, unlike conventional bindings)
4. When iced up (frequently) very difficulty to switch modes
5. DIN settings compromised when heel unit is iced up.
6. Fitting ski brakes makes balling up MUCH worse.
7. Finally, you damage your shoulder as you hurl them over the cornice and into the abyss in sheer rage and your tears of frustration freeze and you can't read the map.
Maybe I should have toured under Alpine sun?
> Are there any other major downsides to dynafit?
1. You can't get into the binding in deep snow. ('Cos you can't see the tiddly pins)
2. You can't get into the binding on hard ice on a steep slope. ('Cos the fiddly pins need pressure to activate and the ski slips sideways)
3. You can't get into the binding when it is balled up (all the time when in fresh wet snow (Scottish conditions) (Balls up more than any other binding as the heel unit stays on the ski and is dragged through the snow all the time, with no clearing-tap when the heel comes down, unlike conventional bindings)
4. When iced up (frequently) very difficulty to switch modes
5. DIN settings compromised when heel unit is iced up.
6. Fitting ski brakes makes balling up MUCH worse.
7. Finally, you damage your shoulder as you hurl them over the cornice and into the abyss in sheer rage and your tears of frustration freeze and you can't read the map.
Maybe I should have toured under Alpine sun?
In reply to top cat:
I've not noticed this problem, but I had already worked out the solution to (2) by the time I got to tour in deeper, softer snow.
Position the toe of your boot, by hand if necessary, and yank up the touring lever to lock yourself in instead of trying to stomp down. It'll be much easier to click the heel in once there's no risk of the toe popping out. Once clicked in at the toe, slide the ski back and forth a bit to make sure any ice in the boot toe holes has been squished out.
Never had this problem, for whatever reason.
The toe's never iced up for me, for whatever reason. I see other folks suggest using something pointy but non-metallic like a golf-tee for dealing with this situation. The heel has never iced up for me at all.
I've seen both Marker and Fritschi touring bindings ice up in touring mode making it quite awkward to get back into ski mode. The owners have threatened to pee on the bindings to get them to defrost, but happily that's never been required in practise.
No idea what this means.
I use brakes and have had no problems with balling up, as above...
I've seen one dynafitted ski pre-release and twiddle the heel into touring mode, letting it slide off into a crevasse, which was entertaining.
I've also seen a guy with dynafits competently mounted to dynafit skis using some other brand of boots and have baffling pre-release problems even in tour mode due to out-of-spec toe fittings... not something you can spot in the shop! Dynafits are very sensitive to imperfect components and mounting, which sucks, but you only need to make sure they work together once (and preferably before you go on a long tour).
You should set em up and then spend a day or two in icy bumps to make sure you've got the release values right and that you've had a chance to practise clicking back in on an inconvenient slope. They're not quite as click-and-forget as other bindings are.
> 1. You can't get into the binding in deep snow. ('Cos you can't see the tiddly pins)
I've not noticed this problem, but I had already worked out the solution to (2) by the time I got to tour in deeper, softer snow.
> 2. You can't get into the binding on hard ice on a steep slope. ('Cos the fiddly pins need pressure to activate and the ski slips sideways)
Position the toe of your boot, by hand if necessary, and yank up the touring lever to lock yourself in instead of trying to stomp down. It'll be much easier to click the heel in once there's no risk of the toe popping out. Once clicked in at the toe, slide the ski back and forth a bit to make sure any ice in the boot toe holes has been squished out.
> 3. You can't get into the binding when it is balled up
Never had this problem, for whatever reason.
> 4. When iced up (frequently) very difficulty to switch modes
The toe's never iced up for me, for whatever reason. I see other folks suggest using something pointy but non-metallic like a golf-tee for dealing with this situation. The heel has never iced up for me at all.
I've seen both Marker and Fritschi touring bindings ice up in touring mode making it quite awkward to get back into ski mode. The owners have threatened to pee on the bindings to get them to defrost, but happily that's never been required in practise.
> 5. DIN settings compromised when heel unit is iced up.
No idea what this means.
> 6. Fitting ski brakes makes balling up MUCH worse.
I use brakes and have had no problems with balling up, as above...
> 7. Finally, you damage your shoulder as you hurl them over the cornice and into the abyss in sheer rage and your tears of frustration freeze and you can't read the map.
I've seen one dynafitted ski pre-release and twiddle the heel into touring mode, letting it slide off into a crevasse, which was entertaining.
I've also seen a guy with dynafits competently mounted to dynafit skis using some other brand of boots and have baffling pre-release problems even in tour mode due to out-of-spec toe fittings... not something you can spot in the shop! Dynafits are very sensitive to imperfect components and mounting, which sucks, but you only need to make sure they work together once (and preferably before you go on a long tour).
You should set em up and then spend a day or two in icy bumps to make sure you've got the release values right and that you've had a chance to practise clicking back in on an inconvenient slope. They're not quite as click-and-forget as other bindings are.
In reply to top cat:
I've waited for enough people faffing to get into Fritschi's (and others) to say its no better/no worse...
See answer to No !
The 'cage' effect of a Fritschi (etc) makes it particularly prone to balling up too...
As per answers to 1 & 4...
Really?
As per answers 1 & 4 !
Just playing Devil's Advocate... sure they take some getting used to, but the advantages far outweigh any disadvantages.
> (In reply to dutybooty)
> [...]
>
> 1. You can't get into the binding in deep snow. ('Cos you can't see the tiddly pins)
> [...]
>
> 1. You can't get into the binding in deep snow. ('Cos you can't see the tiddly pins)
I've waited for enough people faffing to get into Fritschi's (and others) to say its no better/no worse...
> 2. You can't get into the binding on hard ice on a steep slope. ('Cos the fiddly pins need pressure to activate and the ski slips sideways)
See answer to No !
> 3. You can't get into the binding when it is balled up (all the time when in fresh wet snow (Scottish conditions) (Balls up more than any other binding as the heel unit stays on the ski and is dragged through the snow all the time, with no clearing-tap when the heel comes down, unlike conventional bindings)
The 'cage' effect of a Fritschi (etc) makes it particularly prone to balling up too...
> 4. When iced up (frequently) very difficulty to switch modes
As per answers to 1 & 4...
> 5. DIN settings compromised when heel unit is iced up.
Really?
> 6. Fitting ski brakes makes balling up MUCH worse.
As per answers 1 & 4 !
> 7. Finally, you damage your shoulder as you hurl them over the cornice and into the abyss in sheer rage and your tears of frustration freeze and you can't read the map.
>
...>
Just playing Devil's Advocate... sure they take some getting used to, but the advantages far outweigh any disadvantages.
In reply to dutybooty: I think for how good a skier I am (which is crap)...I shall probably have to get fritschis and deal with the extra weight
In reply to top cat:
For all the problems you've met I've either found solutions, not found them to be a problem or found dynafits to be no worse than other bindings.
They are certainly more fiddly to begin with but after a few days I was used to them.
To the OP:
I would say that your prowess or experience as a skier should not be the deciding factor but whether you feel the weight savings, better position and more efficient walk mode out weigh the bit of added faff. Also consider exactly what kind of skiing you will be doing. If you're going to be covering big distances then I'd say dynafits will be of more benefit. If it's more for short tours to access good downs then the benefits of Dynafit are less attractive.
At the end of the day Dynafit, Fritschi, or Marker (just to confuse you further) are all excellent bindings and will do you fine.
For all the problems you've met I've either found solutions, not found them to be a problem or found dynafits to be no worse than other bindings.
They are certainly more fiddly to begin with but after a few days I was used to them.
To the OP:
I would say that your prowess or experience as a skier should not be the deciding factor but whether you feel the weight savings, better position and more efficient walk mode out weigh the bit of added faff. Also consider exactly what kind of skiing you will be doing. If you're going to be covering big distances then I'd say dynafits will be of more benefit. If it's more for short tours to access good downs then the benefits of Dynafit are less attractive.
At the end of the day Dynafit, Fritschi, or Marker (just to confuse you further) are all excellent bindings and will do you fine.
In reply to dutybooty:
Answer no1.
Having mounted various bindings/skis over the years the following applies.........
I. ski manufacturers usually spec where the centre line of the boot sits, so the boot centre line mark on the sole/side should be on top of the mark on the ski.
ii. In telemark the boot would not be mounted this way using the same ski, as the pin line (front of boot) would be on the ski centre line, thus putting the boot further back on the ski.
iii. You can shift the binding forwards or backwards on the ski if you wish depending on your choice, eg I had a lady customer who was only 5ft tall and ski-ed blacks all day, but had problems with the new skis she had bought else where. So I looked at them and yes they had mounted the bindings as per the marks, BUT forgot that the skis (although the shortest made in that type) were too long for her weight/ability! So I moved the bindings forward on the ski and she had no further problems with them!!
iv. My telemarks I chose a slightly longer ski (for better float), and mounted the bindings further forward.
Answer no2.
Hire a set of Dynafits and try them for yourself.............the main "problem" is that to change from downhill to tour or uphill you have to remove the boot from the binding then re-clip back in .......as well as turn the heel unit around!............But they are way better now than when I first saw them back in 1994!!!
> Just two really basic questions for you all.
>
> Alot of skis I'm seeing around have the bindings really far back on the ski, instead of the middle, is there any reason for this?
>
> I'm looking at some new skis currently. I'm on fritschi bindings but want to loose a bit of weight on the set up. This is leading me to dynafit, but I also do a bit of piste skiing on the same set up (maybe one week per year), is this a bad idea? Are there any other major downsides to dynafit?
>
> Alot of skis I'm seeing around have the bindings really far back on the ski, instead of the middle, is there any reason for this?
>
> I'm looking at some new skis currently. I'm on fritschi bindings but want to loose a bit of weight on the set up. This is leading me to dynafit, but I also do a bit of piste skiing on the same set up (maybe one week per year), is this a bad idea? Are there any other major downsides to dynafit?
Answer no1.
Having mounted various bindings/skis over the years the following applies.........
I. ski manufacturers usually spec where the centre line of the boot sits, so the boot centre line mark on the sole/side should be on top of the mark on the ski.
ii. In telemark the boot would not be mounted this way using the same ski, as the pin line (front of boot) would be on the ski centre line, thus putting the boot further back on the ski.
iii. You can shift the binding forwards or backwards on the ski if you wish depending on your choice, eg I had a lady customer who was only 5ft tall and ski-ed blacks all day, but had problems with the new skis she had bought else where. So I looked at them and yes they had mounted the bindings as per the marks, BUT forgot that the skis (although the shortest made in that type) were too long for her weight/ability! So I moved the bindings forward on the ski and she had no further problems with them!!
iv. My telemarks I chose a slightly longer ski (for better float), and mounted the bindings further forward.
Answer no2.
Hire a set of Dynafits and try them for yourself.............the main "problem" is that to change from downhill to tour or uphill you have to remove the boot from the binding then re-clip back in .......as well as turn the heel unit around!............But they are way better now than when I first saw them back in 1994!!!
In reply to Snowdave:
Any notion where you can do this?
>But they are way better now than when I first saw them back in 1994!!!
I think a lot of folks that are anti Dynafit are going on reports about the early ones.
> (In reply to dutybooty)
> [...]
> Hire a set of Dynafits and try them for yourself
> [...]
> Hire a set of Dynafits and try them for yourself
Any notion where you can do this?
>But they are way better now than when I first saw them back in 1994!!!
I think a lot of folks that are anti Dynafit are going on reports about the early ones.
In reply to Snowdave:
You're right to put problem in inverted commas there because it isn't really a problem.
> (In reply to dutybooty)
> [...]
> the main "problem" is that to change from downhill to tour or uphill you have to remove the boot from the binding then re-clip back in .......as well as turn the heel unit around
> [...]
> the main "problem" is that to change from downhill to tour or uphill you have to remove the boot from the binding then re-clip back in .......as well as turn the heel unit around
You're right to put problem in inverted commas there because it isn't really a problem.
In reply to dutybooty: I made the comment about my skiing prowess making me lean towards fritschis as per the "Lots of silly falls", thats me to the ground.
But I do tend to spend alot more of my time on the flats/uphill rather than coming down.
But I do tend to spend alot more of my time on the flats/uphill rather than coming down.
In reply to DaveHK:
I know a few good ski shops in Aviemore................one of which is a specialist and hires out tele and both styles of AT..............
I know a few good ski shops in Aviemore................one of which is a specialist and hires out tele and both styles of AT..............
In reply to Snowdave:
Mountain Spirit? I didn't realise they hired Dynafits.
> (In reply to Dave Kerr)
>
> I know a few good ski shops in Aviemore................one of which is a specialist and hires out tele and both styles of AT..............
>
> I know a few good ski shops in Aviemore................one of which is a specialist and hires out tele and both styles of AT..............
Mountain Spirit? I didn't realise they hired Dynafits.
In reply to Snowdave:
Why the extended ellipsis? Are you typing whilst walking up stairs?
> (In reply to Dave Kerr)
>
> I know a few good ski shops in Aviemore................one of which is a specialist and hires out tele and both styles of AT..............
>
> I know a few good ski shops in Aviemore................one of which is a specialist and hires out tele and both styles of AT..............
Why the extended ellipsis? Are you typing whilst walking up stairs?
In reply to DaveHK:
They certainly did the season before last (G3 not Dynafit, but the same system), and had quite a good range of skis you could try to help you decide what ski suited you best. (Fat, Light, GP etc)
Rob can be persuaded to knock the cost of the hire off, if you go on to buy your outfit from him at the end of the weekend.
> (In reply to Snowdave)
> [...]
>
> Mountain Spirit? I didn't realise they hired Dynafits.
> [...]
>
> Mountain Spirit? I didn't realise they hired Dynafits.
They certainly did the season before last (G3 not Dynafit, but the same system), and had quite a good range of skis you could try to help you decide what ski suited you best. (Fat, Light, GP etc)
Rob can be persuaded to knock the cost of the hire off, if you go on to buy your outfit from him at the end of the weekend.
In reply to DaveHK: Just to balance the veiws out - there are a lot of people who seem to get on really well with the dynafit system but I do find it can be a pain in the *rse.
I've been using Dynafits on my lighter skis for a couple of years now have come across problems with getting in and out of them. Whilst other bindings do ball up with snow (e.g. Markers going from tour to ski mode) it only ever takes a sharp bang, or a jab with a pole tip to sort the ice out. On multiple occasions I've spent at least 20 cold minutes at the top of some coulior trying to get the dynafits to engage, sometimes the toe lugs freeze up, and sometimes the heel unit just won't engage for no obvious reason (it has always started working again some time later). At one point I was about to start walking down, alone, over a glacier until it seemed to fix itself.
The other issue I've had is with pre-release. The toe unit detaches from my boots fairly regularly whilst I'm skinning (and yes, I had locked it out) and when in downhill mode I reckon the toe unit releases (unlocked) at somewhere around DIN7-8 meaning having your heel settings higher than that is fairly futile. As a result I have to use lockout mode when skiing anything that is moderately steep or committing just to keep the damn things attached to my boots.
Yes, they're also a pain to step into when you're on icy or steep slopes but you'll get there eventually so it's more of an inconvenience than a rage-inducing shortcoming (although I have shouted at my dynafits more times than I can remember).
Having said that they do generally perform well and the weight savings are easily worth it for long tours or climbing - they function at their best when they are on your back though
I've been using Dynafits on my lighter skis for a couple of years now have come across problems with getting in and out of them. Whilst other bindings do ball up with snow (e.g. Markers going from tour to ski mode) it only ever takes a sharp bang, or a jab with a pole tip to sort the ice out. On multiple occasions I've spent at least 20 cold minutes at the top of some coulior trying to get the dynafits to engage, sometimes the toe lugs freeze up, and sometimes the heel unit just won't engage for no obvious reason (it has always started working again some time later). At one point I was about to start walking down, alone, over a glacier until it seemed to fix itself.
The other issue I've had is with pre-release. The toe unit detaches from my boots fairly regularly whilst I'm skinning (and yes, I had locked it out) and when in downhill mode I reckon the toe unit releases (unlocked) at somewhere around DIN7-8 meaning having your heel settings higher than that is fairly futile. As a result I have to use lockout mode when skiing anything that is moderately steep or committing just to keep the damn things attached to my boots.
Yes, they're also a pain to step into when you're on icy or steep slopes but you'll get there eventually so it's more of an inconvenience than a rage-inducing shortcoming (although I have shouted at my dynafits more times than I can remember).
Having said that they do generally perform well and the weight savings are easily worth it for long tours or climbing - they function at their best when they are on your back though
In reply to Aly:
What boots are you using Aly? Dynafit seem to be saying that only their own inserts (as used on their boots and Scarpa ones) give optimum performance although it's not clear to what degree this is evidence based or just marketing BS.
What boots are you using Aly? Dynafit seem to be saying that only their own inserts (as used on their boots and Scarpa ones) give optimum performance although it's not clear to what degree this is evidence based or just marketing BS.
In reply to DaveHK: Yeah I saw that but I've got Scarpa boots - and I believe they buy the inserts from dynafit rather than making their own.
In reply to Aly:
Sounds like something is pretty busted there. No-one should be walking out of a working dynafit in tour mode. Deformation of toe holes might be a possibility, but it would appear to be pretty hard to see if there's a problem if you don't know what you're looking for. I certainly don't
Probably a bit late for doing anything under warranty, but a chat with the boot manufacturer might be useful.
In reply to Dave Kerr:
There's doubtless a thick layer of marketing BS, but:
- Salomon's first attempt at making tech toe mounts ended disasterously.
- Garmont's last attempt before being purchased by Scott resulted in some quite subpar fittings that clicked and wore quickly.
- Tecnica's previous attempts were generally okay, but a small number did have similar problems to Garmont. They've made some changes to their newer fittings.
so that's all fun. Not so much 'optimum performance' as 'good reliability'. This is part of the price you pay for not having a well defined and testable tech binding standard.
> The other issue I've had is with pre-release. The toe unit detaches from my boots fairly regularly whilst I'm skinning (and yes, I had locked it out)
Sounds like something is pretty busted there. No-one should be walking out of a working dynafit in tour mode. Deformation of toe holes might be a possibility, but it would appear to be pretty hard to see if there's a problem if you don't know what you're looking for. I certainly don't
Probably a bit late for doing anything under warranty, but a chat with the boot manufacturer might be useful.
In reply to Dave Kerr:
> Dynafit seem to be saying that only their own inserts (as used on their boots and Scarpa ones) give optimum performance although it's not clear to what degree this is evidence based or just marketing BS.
There's doubtless a thick layer of marketing BS, but:
- Salomon's first attempt at making tech toe mounts ended disasterously.
- Garmont's last attempt before being purchased by Scott resulted in some quite subpar fittings that clicked and wore quickly.
- Tecnica's previous attempts were generally okay, but a small number did have similar problems to Garmont. They've made some changes to their newer fittings.
so that's all fun. Not so much 'optimum performance' as 'good reliability'. This is part of the price you pay for not having a well defined and testable tech binding standard.
In reply to Aly:
Have you checked the gap between the boot and the heel unit is correct? Different gaps for different models:
http://www.wildsnow.com/2599/dynafit-tech-heel-space-shim-gauge/
Have you checked the gap between the boot and the heel unit is correct? Different gaps for different models:
http://www.wildsnow.com/2599/dynafit-tech-heel-space-shim-gauge/
In reply to dutybooty:
I would certainly consider this - I broke my leg the year before last skiing dynafits and while I wouldn't put the brake entirely down to the binding it was a factor.
I should point out that I'm also not a great skier and got dynafits to feed my mountaineering habit as a "future proof investment" after talking to a load of people who work in the industry. I should also point out I've skied them and crashed in them again since with no issue.
(FYI very slow fall, in fact I would have laughed at it had my leg not gone snap. Binding didn't release and I was in knee deep powder as part of an off piste lesson.)
> (In reply to dutybooty) I made the comment about my skiing prowess making me lean towards fritschis as per the "Lots of silly falls", thats me to the ground.
>
> But I do tend to spend alot more of my time on the flats/uphill rather than coming down.
>
> But I do tend to spend alot more of my time on the flats/uphill rather than coming down.
I would certainly consider this - I broke my leg the year before last skiing dynafits and while I wouldn't put the brake entirely down to the binding it was a factor.
I should point out that I'm also not a great skier and got dynafits to feed my mountaineering habit as a "future proof investment" after talking to a load of people who work in the industry. I should also point out I've skied them and crashed in them again since with no issue.
(FYI very slow fall, in fact I would have laughed at it had my leg not gone snap. Binding didn't release and I was in knee deep powder as part of an off piste lesson.)
In reply to Shearwater:
A lot of people seem to say that when the subject of Fritschis comes up on online forums. I can feel the height difference on mine, but I don't experience any of the other problems.
I suspect that my bindings feel solid because I'm using a 294 BSL boot in a binding that is designed for a BSL between 245 - 300.
> (In reply to Dave Kerr)
> Fritschis just felt odd to me. Maybe it was the height they leave you off the ski compared to alpine bindings, or maybe it was the slight floatiness you get at the heel cos of the way its fastened, or the slight twistiness of the binding lengthways.
> Fritschis just felt odd to me. Maybe it was the height they leave you off the ski compared to alpine bindings, or maybe it was the slight floatiness you get at the heel cos of the way its fastened, or the slight twistiness of the binding lengthways.
A lot of people seem to say that when the subject of Fritschis comes up on online forums. I can feel the height difference on mine, but I don't experience any of the other problems.
I suspect that my bindings feel solid because I'm using a 294 BSL boot in a binding that is designed for a BSL between 245 - 300.
In reply to dutybooty:
You can change the binding set up Fritschi to take an Alpine boot for piste skiing, then readjust for your lightweight touring boots when heading off into the backcountry.
Plum may also be worth a look - albiet the same system as Dynafit.
I don't know how much merit there is of discussing the differing binding performance when 'driving hard' unless everyone is aware of each others technical ski ability and preferences / style of skiing.
On piste are you cruising Red Runs, powering fast GS turns, spending all day in the bumps?
Touring are you getting from A to B on a hut to hut tour or accessing steeps?
How much you notice subtle differences in binding and ski performance will be governed by your ability.
So many things to balance.
You can change the binding set up Fritschi to take an Alpine boot for piste skiing, then readjust for your lightweight touring boots when heading off into the backcountry.
Plum may also be worth a look - albiet the same system as Dynafit.
I don't know how much merit there is of discussing the differing binding performance when 'driving hard' unless everyone is aware of each others technical ski ability and preferences / style of skiing.
On piste are you cruising Red Runs, powering fast GS turns, spending all day in the bumps?
Touring are you getting from A to B on a hut to hut tour or accessing steeps?
How much you notice subtle differences in binding and ski performance will be governed by your ability.
So many things to balance.
In reply to dutybooty:
All I want to do now is go skiing.
No one really talked much about skis though or did i miss that? What skis are you looking at? There are so many to choose from it can be a challenge deciding what to pick. You asked about binding positions being further back than you expect so I imagine you're looking at a more powder/backcounty specific ski. Simply put, the stance is usually further back on such skis to help provide lift in powder. Moving the stance forward provides more grip on the piste, like for a race ski. As a suggestion, think about getting an all mountain freeride ripper like the Zag H112. It'll give great performance in the backcountry and on the piste.
Have fun.
All I want to do now is go skiing.
No one really talked much about skis though or did i miss that? What skis are you looking at? There are so many to choose from it can be a challenge deciding what to pick. You asked about binding positions being further back than you expect so I imagine you're looking at a more powder/backcounty specific ski. Simply put, the stance is usually further back on such skis to help provide lift in powder. Moving the stance forward provides more grip on the piste, like for a race ski. As a suggestion, think about getting an all mountain freeride ripper like the Zag H112. It'll give great performance in the backcountry and on the piste.
Have fun.
In reply to dutybooty: I'm looking at K2 waybacks. Just a general all round ski.
On piste, I can get down anything without falling, with a modicum of style, but not too much.
Off piste style goes completely out the window on much over 50 degrees. And silly falls off piste in powder really aren't uncommon for me at all.
On piste, I can get down anything without falling, with a modicum of style, but not too much.
Off piste style goes completely out the window on much over 50 degrees. And silly falls off piste in powder really aren't uncommon for me at all.
In reply to dutybooty: How much over 50 degrees do you ski?!
In reply to dutybooty:
You're either a much better skier than your earlier posts suggested or like pretty much every one else (myself included) rubbish at judging angles!
I have Waybacks. A great touring ski, very light with superb soft snow performance for their dimensions. They show their limitations on hard snow though, if you're used to a piste ski and like to charge this may be an issue. They also ski short due to the amount of tip rocker so if you're havering between 2 sizes go for the bigger one.
> (In reply to dutybooty) >
> Off piste style goes completely out the window on much over 50 degrees.
> Off piste style goes completely out the window on much over 50 degrees.
You're either a much better skier than your earlier posts suggested or like pretty much every one else (myself included) rubbish at judging angles!
I have Waybacks. A great touring ski, very light with superb soft snow performance for their dimensions. They show their limitations on hard snow though, if you're used to a piste ski and like to charge this may be an issue. They also ski short due to the amount of tip rocker so if you're havering between 2 sizes go for the bigger one.
In reply to Removed Usercanadian tim:
Im glad youve said this. I have Black diamond skis and after having much problems trying to turn the long planks in soft snow i coincided putting the bindings slightly aft. after reading a few articles on the BD pro callum pettit, he has his 2.5cm aft.. Thankfully a different Black diamond aki with a rocker helped my problems!
> (In reply to Removed Userdutybooty)
the stance is usually further back on such skis to help provide lift in powder. Moving the stance forward provides more grip on the pisteIm glad youve said this. I have Black diamond skis and after having much problems trying to turn the long planks in soft snow i coincided putting the bindings slightly aft. after reading a few articles on the BD pro callum pettit, he has his 2.5cm aft.. Thankfully a different Black diamond aki with a rocker helped my problems!
In reply to DaveHK:
> (In reply to dutybooty)
> [...]
>
> You're either a much better skier than your earlier posts suggested or like pretty much every one else (myself included) rubbish at judging angles!
I've heard folk get their percentages & degrees mixed up before. > [...]
>
> You're either a much better skier than your earlier posts suggested or like pretty much every one else (myself included) rubbish at judging angles!
In reply to DaveHK:
I'm probably rubbish at judging angles! I could probably just about ski the starting snow slope of contamine grisolle however steep that may be.
> (In reply to dutybooty)
> [...]
>
> You're either a much better skier than your earlier posts suggested or like pretty much every one else (myself included) rubbish at judging angles!
>
> [...]
>
> You're either a much better skier than your earlier posts suggested or like pretty much every one else (myself included) rubbish at judging angles!
>
I'm probably rubbish at judging angles! I could probably just about ski the starting snow slope of contamine grisolle however steep that may be.
In reply to dutybooty:
Angles of slopes explained wonderfully by the late Remi Lecluse at Kendal in 2008
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151219739996203&set=pb.113839...
Angles of slopes explained wonderfully by the late Remi Lecluse at Kendal in 2008
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151219739996203&set=pb.113839...
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