/ European sport destinations a day drive from uk?

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pymn nice but dim - on 04 Sep 2013
So me and te Missus are thinking if getting away for ten days in mid October.
This year we have been to el chorro by plane, and i have driven to font twice.
I was hoping someone could suggest a new location we could reach in a days drive (or there abouts) that would offer a good mixture of sport climbing that would be in season.
Preferably with a good amount of grades between 5-7b to cover us both.

I was thinking possibly verdon, or somewhere in Spain but I have a rather limited knowledge of the sport venues available, if worst comes to worst we have agreed to boulder in font but it would be nice to make a trip to somewhere new, and have the ropes involved.
I have considered flying but driving could otentially be cheaper than flying out if we get a good deal on the tunnel/ferry.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated cheers x
Iain Peters - on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to pymn nice but dim:

The Pfalz might suit. Few autoroute tolls, with the chance of cheap(ish) fuel and some climbing in Luxembourg on the way, good camping, unusual but fun climbing and other possibilities such as the gneiss above the fleshpots of Baden Baden not too far away....and few Brits!!
victim of mathematics - on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to Iain Peters:
> (In reply to pymn nice but dim)
>
> The Pfalz might suit. Few autoroute tolls, with the chance of cheap(ish) fuel and some climbing in Luxembourg on the way, good camping, unusual but fun climbing and other possibilities such as the gneiss above the fleshpots of Baden Baden not too far away....and few Brits!!

The Pfalz is great, but it's not really got much that much proper sport climbing below UIAA VII. It's got loads of great trad, and a fair bit of weird hybrid trad/sport though.
earlsdonwhu - on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to pymn nice but dim: Burgundy? 6 hours ish from Calais.
Carless - on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:

Just south of the Pfalz (ie. in France) is loads of fully equipped fine sandstone
http://www.escalade-alsace.com/falaise/intro-falaise.php
Dawlish - on 05 Sep 2013
In reply to pymn nice but dim: Have a look at Orpierre. there is a good guide book in English from Rockfax - Haute Provence. Me and the missus take the 2AM Dover - Dunkirk and make the drive in 8 hours.
1poundSOCKS - on 05 Sep 2013
In reply to Dawlish: Orpierre is great, and there's a cheap campsite in the village and within walking distance of the climbing. Not many people mention Chateauvert, it's a bit further away, but it's a great crag, I preferred the climbing there. The campsite is cheap, but it's a short drive to the crag, maybe 5 minutes.
1poundSOCKS - on 05 Sep 2013
In reply to pymn nice but dim: About Verdon, if you want adventurous, run out multi-pitch, it's the place to go. If you want more friendly single pitch, it has some, but it's a bit spread out and not nearly as extensive as some other crags in the area.
In reply to pymn nice but dim:

We are in the French Jura, drove down yesterday, 7 hours from Zeebrugge. Very quiet, lost of decent little limestone crags scattered around the area.

Chris
GrahamD - on 05 Sep 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Is there a catalogue of venues in the Jura ? we often end up there on family holidays and some escape options are always welcome ! I've got the Jingo Wobbly overview of Europe but there isn't a lot in there
In reply to GrahamD:

I am using the Suisse Plasier guide - it has 62 venues in it. It mostly covers routes up to 6b but there is plenty of harder stuff around.


Chris
GrahamD - on 05 Sep 2013
In reply to pymn nice but dim:

I'm not sure but I'd imagine Verdon could be getting a bit iffy weatherwise in October. Its also a looong drive.

Ardeche might be worth a look (I think thats quicker to get to than e.g. Orpierre)
GrahamD - on 05 Sep 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Up to 6b sounds fine :-) I'll maybe try to look it out
BoulderBus - on 18 Sep 2013
In reply to pymn nice but dim:

Freyr in Belgium....
ads.ukclimbing.com
GrahamD - on 20 Sep 2013
In reply to BoulderBus:

> Freyr in Belgium....

In October ?


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