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Topic - Open Letter to the Scottish Mountain Guide, Tour Ronde 03/09/13

simone.lombardi - on 07 Sep 2013
Dear Scottish Mountain Guide who totally ignored us on the SE ridge of Tour Ronde after the difficult on-sight ascent of its north face and an unscheduled bivouac just below the summit with no equipment, no water, rockfall and -5 degrees:

it's nice to see that you put your business interests and daily fee before solidarity and kindness towards other Alpinists.

For your information:

The German Guide who spotted us at 07:30 offered us full support, giving up food, water and lots of beta for the descent, a slightly different approach from yours.

We told you we had just been through a terrible bivouac and you said "us too": sleeping in a tent the day before with full comfort in the middle of the glacier is not an emergency bivuoac, it's Glamping.

You told us: "We saw you yesterday on the face, you started late and were slow". You have no right to criticise the style of our ascent, especially considering it was on-sight, while you probably have done it a million times. Also, the day after the descent, it was nice to observe how you followed our alternative line to the middle of the face and used our tracks and beta to get to the gulley.. what an hypocrite.

When, completely exhausted, we asked you if you could follow you across the crux section of the descent, you replied: "Have you not got a guide book?" and then overtook us. I wonder if Walter Bonatti replied the same to Pierre Mazeaud on the Center Pillar of Freney.

If you think this behaviour helps ring-fencing your business, I sincerely hope you won't need the help of other people when you find yourself in trouble.

Let's see if you have the guts to reply with your name and surname.

Yours sincerely,

Simone Lombardi

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