/ 80m rope - dmm new breed, mammut galaxy or revelation?

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snomad - on 11 Sep 2013
We're after an 80m rope for sports.

My 3 choices are above. I can't see that there's a lot to choose between them.

I like a bit of extra, erm ... girth. It makes me feel more secure & like it's less likely the rope is going to be dragged across an edge & sheared.

My boyfriend is harder core. He climbs harder routes, on his edge where pulling up extra weight whilst holding onto f*ck all might make a difference.

He wants the 9.1mm, I'm thinking the 10mm.

The weight diff between the lightest rope & the heaviest is 1.23 lbs. Is this enough to matter? Does this equate to pulling up .61 lb at the top of a 40m sports route?

As far as I can imagine, we will only ever use this 80m for sports (unless I'm being short sighted) - we have 50m twins for trad & 60 ice lines for ice.

Which rope shall I get? Any comments from people using any of these ropes?

Thanks.

needvert on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to snomad:

Outdoorgearlab I think has the revelation in its rope review/comparison.

I have a galaxy but haven't much used it so can't comment - other than to say its not the most supple rope - and I wish I got the bipattern version.
snomad - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to needvert:
thank you. i;ll have a look.

:)
Mountain Llama on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to snomad: I've used a 50m revelation for 5 or so years now. Unless things have changed with the rope construction, I would not recommend the rope for working sports routes etc as the sheath is not up to it.

HTH Davey
kipper12 - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Llama:

I have just bought a sterling ion 2, the 70m not the 80, but sr far so good. This is 9.4, I think. Sterling do something around the 9.1 mark too.

I have used new sport rope a couple of times and so far it handles well and does not kink as some other new ropes have a tendencey to.

I went for the 9.4 as a compromise.
Chi Cheng - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to snomad:
Hello,

I would say one of the major factors in buying an 80m rope is weight.

I've used a few DMM rope, the Galaxy and Revelation.

DMM rope are really nice to handed but durability is not great.

Galaxy is stiff but last forever but is not very light and on a 35m sport route you are going to notice it.

I'm using a revelation at the moment more supple than the Galaxy and stiffer then the DMM ropes. Lasting quite a while and not too heavy.

I'm also using a Beal Diablo (9.8mm) for working routes, and RP on a mammut serenity (8.9mm) which is dying extremely fast.

I would look at ropes from 9.4mm to 9.6mm as a good compromise.

Hope this helps,
Chi
Mike Highbury - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to snomad: Previous threads have illustrated that there are fewer rope manufacturers than brands; just like breakfast cereals really.

Whatever else is on your mind, get your partner to carry an 80m rope to the crag.
snomad - on 13 Sep 2013
In reply to snomad:

Appreicate the 2nd opininons, esp since I live in a climbing shop hinterland & need to buy off the net so I can't even see & feel the ropes.

I'll stop yakking about it and bob onto www.cheapoldropesstoredincatpiss.com now & actually buy one.

:)


Toerag - on 13 Sep 2013
In reply to snomad: Joe Brown have deals on 80m mammut ropes at the mo - our club got one recently which I think was the Eternity. Seems alright, we have a rule to not work routes on it - you can push your grade on your own 50/60m ropes on shorter stuff, but the 80 is there to allow members the opportunity to get on long routes without having to shell out on a rope they won't often use.
shark - on 13 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Llama:
>I've used a 50m revelation for 5 or so years now. Unless things have changed with the rope construction, I would not recommend the rope for working sports routes etc as the sheath is not up to it.



I have to say that the Revelation is one of the the best wearing rope Ive had and given that it is 9.2mm that is remarkable. I'm not sure whether you are comparing to thicker ropes or the amount of usage but 5 years use is quite a lot.
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Mountain Llama on 13 Sep 2013
In reply to shark: My revelation is looking good after 5 yrs of alps, trad and Scots winter. Although, I am conscious of it being lite wt and always treat it with respect. So I would agree with you that the rope ware is good for a lite wt rope.

The OP mentioned hard sport climbing and Sharp edges, ie heavy use, so my comment re working grades and sheath ware would be a concern (for me) and maybe a thicker rope or one with a harder waring sheath would be more suited.

The revelation is a good rope but hard use will result in a short life.

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