/ converting an old dmm fly to leashless
Has anyone on here managed to bodge a petzl trigrest onto an old dmm fly?
Having been tolsd that it can be done i'vee been trying but without succes so far.Tto begin with it wouldn't fit round the shaft so i cut away a bit of the rubber round the grip and it now fits a little better.
Now the bolt won't tighten into the nut.
I could buy a new nut and bolt but even if i could get it tight I'm not sure i'd be happy with it - mainly bacause the only thing holding it on would be the bolt holding it tight, whereas from what i can see its designed for the bolt to also go through a hole in thespike which i presume would give a lot of added strength. There is no way that the bolt could go through the spike on an old fly.
Anyone done better than me and can share their wisdom?
there was a thread here (maybe another site?) where a guy made triggers using a bolt and lots of epoxy... the finished product looked good from what i recall
I'd link a picture but won't come up as my facebook is private, send me an email if you want to see some pictures of how i had mine set up.
I have replaced the Grivel trig rests in that photo with the Petzl ones. As you found, they won't fit over the grip tape so I had to trim that away to allow them to sit in the right place. A plus side is that the latch mechanism still works, so I can slide them up the shaft if I need to.
Someone will no doubt pitch in and question the wisdom of modifying Flys instead of buying new axes designed for leashless. However: (a) I enjoy a bit of DIY, and then using the result of my handiwork, and (b) as 'a lakeland climber' said in another recent thread: "Pretty well every axe produced in the last thirty years is more than good enough up to grade VI."
I use the original Grivel spring leash, with a marine grade stainless steel swivel (available on eBay for just a few pounds) to give the same effect as the Black Diamond spinner leash. See what I mean about DIY?
i might have a try with the grivels.
Go and buy the biggest hose clamp you can find, and attach so that the nut acts like a finger rest, then wrap the handle in self amalgamating rubber tape, (can be found from Clas Ohlson for £5, rather than the more expensive, and smaller roll from Petzl).
This works reasonable well, and has held up to three seasons use so far.
Also make some lanyards, using the sheath of a rope, with bungee threaded inside it, tie an overhand on a bight at the bottom, so this can be larks-footed to your belay loop, and then attach some small carabiners (or the black diamond micron s, which is a perfectly sized, metal accessory crab) to either end with a barrel (or scaffold) knot. This will keep them oriented correctly.
I hope that makes sense!
Elsewhere on the site
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
So, just what is the Petzl RocTrip? Every year French climbing manufacturer pick a sport climbing area that has potential... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more