/ converting an old dmm fly to leashless

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
jbb on 10 Oct 2013
Hi,
Has anyone on here managed to bodge a petzl trigrest onto an old dmm fly?
Having been tolsd that it can be done i'vee been trying but without succes so far.Tto begin with it wouldn't fit round the shaft so i cut away a bit of the rubber round the grip and it now fits a little better.
Now the bolt won't tighten into the nut.
I could buy a new nut and bolt but even if i could get it tight I'm not sure i'd be happy with it - mainly bacause the only thing holding it on would be the bolt holding it tight, whereas from what i can see its designed for the bolt to also go through a hole in thespike which i presume would give a lot of added strength. There is no way that the bolt could go through the spike on an old fly.
Anyone done better than me and can share their wisdom?
valjean - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to jbb:

there was a thread here (maybe another site?) where a guy made triggers using a bolt and lots of epoxy... the finished product looked good from what i recall
valjean - on 11 Oct 2013
Nath93 - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to jbb: Buy Grivel trig rests and saw off the metal part, turn it around and put it at the bottom of the fly rest, no modification to the tool necessary. I did this with mine and they were bomb proof. Petzl rests have a habit of snapping from the constant abuse they'll inevitably get.

I'd link a picture but won't come up as my facebook is private, send me an email if you want to see some pictures of how i had mine set up.
Lennybelz - on 11 Oct 2013
It would be very interesting to make the triggers. What is the procedure of making it..??
-------------
http://www.selogerneuf.com/immobilier/bretagne.htm
Martin W on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to jbb: I used the Petzl grip rests for the pre-2010 Quark for my Flys. It did require drilling through the web of the spike (hard work), but it is utterly bombproof and allows you to use the full length of the axe, unlike the alternatives which clamp round the bottom of the shaft. See here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=127421 The axe still plunges well with the grip rests fitted. Unfortunately Petzl no longer make those particular grip rests :-(

I have replaced the Grivel trig rests in that photo with the Petzl ones. As you found, they won't fit over the grip tape so I had to trim that away to allow them to sit in the right place. A plus side is that the latch mechanism still works, so I can slide them up the shaft if I need to.

Someone will no doubt pitch in and question the wisdom of modifying Flys instead of buying new axes designed for leashless. However: (a) I enjoy a bit of DIY, and then using the result of my handiwork, and (b) as 'a lakeland climber' said in another recent thread: "Pretty well every axe produced in the last thirty years is more than good enough up to grade VI."

I use the original Grivel spring leash, with a marine grade stainless steel swivel (available on eBay for just a few pounds) to give the same effect as the Black Diamond spinner leash. See what I mean about DIY?
jbb on 25 Oct 2013
Thanks for the tips guys.
i might have a try with the grivels.
cheers,
Ben
Andy DB - on 25 Oct 2013
In reply to jbb:I managed to fit the new petzl trig rests to mine. I didn't use the orange bit of plastic that came with it and just did the whole thing up round the base of shaft. did have to file out a bit of plastic to get it to fit and doing up the bolt was a swine and took two people.
ads.ukclimbing.com
andy_e on 25 Oct 2013
In reply to jbb:

Go and buy the biggest hose clamp you can find, and attach so that the nut acts like a finger rest, then wrap the handle in self amalgamating rubber tape, (can be found from Clas Ohlson for 5, rather than the more expensive, and smaller roll from Petzl).

This works reasonable well, and has held up to three seasons use so far.

Also make some lanyards, using the sheath of a rope, with bungee threaded inside it, tie an overhand on a bight at the bottom, so this can be larks-footed to your belay loop, and then attach some small carabiners (or the black diamond micron s, which is a perfectly sized, metal accessory crab) to either end with a barrel (or scaffold) knot. This will keep them oriented correctly.

I hope that makes sense!

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.