/ Climbing coaching?
I'm a relatively new climber who's really keen to get better. I'm a bit stuck on 5a/b routes and want to get better so that I can learn to lead climb. I don't have a regular climbing partner. I've been wondering whether some sort of climbing coaching might help me. Does such a thing exist? I'm in Essex/London.
> I'm a bit stuck on 5a/b routes and want to get better so that I can learn to lead climb.
You don't have to have reached any standard to learn to lead. The sooner you do it the better.
I met someone new in my club who claimed they were a solid VS leader who turned out to be nervous seconding a grade II scramble on Milestone Buttress, you can't make up how dumb some people are based on ego.
Given all the complications and expense I think people are better off learning to lead mostly with experienced climbers they know, on well protected routes that are easy for them (getting feedback on placements tactics etc). If you dont know anyone like this join a club. This is similar say to getting extra driving lessons outside your formal instruction but in this case there is no formal requirement and the test is really the risk of screwing up. Formal instructors need to be careful when they teach leading so its slower and way more expensive and I've known the liability issue to bite back (dishonest client fell and blamed guide).
I'm not a weirdo stalker by the way, a happily married man in fact.
I learnt with friends rather than in a formal setting so I certainly don't discount this. using an Instructor can help explain the whys of how things are done and give a good grounding but that will need building on long term and having an experienced eye to give feedback is priceless. Whoever (Instructor or experienced climber) is giving that feedback is best to understand that their way is not the only way and to help novices play with simple tools in a controlled situation first. The only downside of learning with your mates is that they often (not always) push you too fast, too hard and without any real structured progression- after all they often have an agenda of routes they want to do too whereas an Instructor should be designing a day about the client.
I've taught dozens of folks to lead in summer and winter and am far better at it now than as a recently passed MIA. I tend to take far more time about what I do. I also find it really rewarding... especially when I later see them burning me off at the crag!
Ha! but you would say that, as you need to make a living !;-)... free with experienced mates is obviously still best for the poorer rock climbers. Sound advice though for those with the will and the dosh (and some good pointers for all).
I've given up being 'rewarded' in that way (and never got paid) as I couldn't really do the guidebook work I wanted to and be heavily involved in a student club (with all the H&S gubbins they increasingly faced).
I miss the winter club trips where we did use guides more extensively: winter climbing is way more expensive in kit and petrol and I still think good advice saved more (in so many ways) than the initial (club subsidised) outlay. I also miss working with Cubby and Mr Ettle: great guys and highly recommended guides.
Elsewhere on the site
Climbing as a discipline offers plentiful metaphors for tackling life's obstacles - bravery, courage, climbing to... Read more
More than 20 years after first setting eyes on the peak and noting it as a potential objective, Mick Fowler, with Paul Ramsden,... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more