UKC Forums - Avon Gorge

Avon Gorge - south side

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Choss 29 Oct 2013

I have Heard a couple of rumours that some routes have been put up recentlyish in the quarries in Leigh Woods.

anybody Know anything more about these developments?

Steve nevers 29 Oct 2013

In reply to Choss: There was some development of bouldering stuff in Leigh Woods that never made it to public knowledge as well, access may likely be an issue, some of the quarries up there are on private land.

OP Choss 29 Oct 2013

In reply to Steve nevers:

The bouldering on the donkey slide wall is good. Give the gift From above a miss though i would say.

deepstar 29 Oct 2013

In reply to Choss: John Nixon`s 1950`s guide mentioned three climbs on the Somerset side of the river."Arete with Cave" V Diff in the Slab Quarry.Then T`ole Bogger V.S A1 followed by Crumble V Diff in the most seaward of the quarries.

OP Choss 29 Oct 2013

In reply to deepstar:

> (In reply to Choss) John Nixon`s 1950`s guide mentioned three climbs on the Somerset side of the river."Arete with Cave" V Diff in the Slab Quarry.Then T`ole Bogger V.S A1 followed by Crumble V Diff in the most seaward of the quarries.

Is there any Chance you have that guide?

I would Love a photocopy, at my Expense of course.

John Alcock 29 Oct 2013

In reply to Choss:
I believe that Martin Crocker has talked to the landowner (s) and discovered that they see no reason why climbing was (supposedly) banned. As a result he and others have been climbing and re-discovering various routes. All I can say it watch out for the top-outs. Some are pretty dodgy.

OP Choss 29 Oct 2013

In reply to John Alcock:

Thanks john.

Might be worth asking Martin then.

Steve nevers 29 Oct 2013

In reply to John Alcock: Thats good news to hear. Will have a chat to Martin about it.

GridNorth 29 Oct 2013

In reply to Choss: Wasn't one of the areas a police firing range for a while?

OP Choss 29 Oct 2013

In reply to GridNorth:

> (In reply to Choss) Wasn't one of the areas a police firing range for a while?

Think that may be Black rocks quarry over portishead way.

John2 29 Oct 2013

In reply to GridNorth: I don't know if this is still the case, but 25 years ago if you stood on the south bank of the Avon next to the police firing range you could see bullet marks on the concrete wall below the Portway on the other bank.