UKC

Has anyone on UKC climbed it?

I'd be interested what sort of acclimitisation programme you used - are there any smaller peaks or a decent trek nearby? And what the best way to get there from La Paz.

Advice appreciated.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

Yes, but not me... Damo might come along and give some good advice...
I did wander up Parinacota a couple of years ago, it's right next to it, a bit lower and a bit easier.


Well, there's Parinacota. I climbed some peaks in the Cordillera Real before heading west, which I'd recommend. There are other lower peaks out near Sajama although it is quite a bleak place, the Cordillera Real is a bit more Alpine-like.


Go to the bus station and find the bus to Arica. I found several buses heading to Arica, and when I asked at the desks if I could get off early some said no, but one company said yes so I took that bus.

In La Paz I was given the phone number of a bloke who lives out there, I can't remember his name or the name of the village off hand but it worked perfectly. I got off the bus right where he lived, he had rooms to let and a 4x4 that he used as a taxi. If you like I could have a look and see if I still have his details.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:
Yes, climbed it several times. I'd also suggest the Cordillera Real for acclimatisation, there isn't much else interesting to do near Sajama. Although Parinacota is easier to climb, it is only a tiny bit lower. Spend a week in the Cordillera Real doing some interesting 5000-5500m peaks first, then jump on that bus!
John

In reply to THE.WALRUS:
Please correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like your profile pic Huayna Potosi? If it is, i'm surprised that you need to ask about how to acclimatise for Sajama.

Thanks for your advice.

Yes, it's HP in the picture. I've climbed extensively in the Cordillera Real, but I haven't climbed anywhere else in Bolivia.

Really, I wanted to know if there was an alternative to the Cordillera Real for acclimitisaing prior to the Sajama climb, as i'd like to see other parts of the country.

However, it seems that the best approach would be to acclimitise around La Paz, and then head off to Sajama.

It'll be happening next June. Can't wait!

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

You could spend a few days around Lake Titicaca, lots of interesting history there, and take a tour of the Salar de Uyuni and wander around that part of the country, plenty ground above 5000m... maybe head up the likes of Lincancubar which is a bit under 6000m so a good bit lower than Sajama.

In reply to Joe G:

Actually, Lincancubar does appeal. Are their any other 5500m+ mountains in the area that can be accessed easily?

I'd rather not spend too much money, so two or three 'tourist' walk-up peaks around Uyni would work well as an acclimitiser.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

Talking Bolivia, might need to go to La Paz (with work) for a few days, anything to do or avoid doing?

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

It's pretty flat around Uyuni...

Licancabur is worth the effort if you are looking for an acclimatisation outing. It's a long slog up volcanic rubble (well, it was in 1997 - there may even be a path by now), but the crater, and the view from it, make it very worthwhile. Both of us just wore fabric boots for Licancabur. The border had a lot of landmines back then, so I don't know how feasible other peaks are around there. We did it from San Pedro de Atacama, getting a lift back over the border. Access may be easier now within Bolivia itself?

Other out the way locations are the volcanoes on the north side of the Salar de Coipasa, such as Tata Sabaya (although it's just short of your 5500m criteria). It's worth a visit just to wander around the debris avalanche deposit (look at the satellite images on Google Maps). I did, for some time in 1994, but then it was the location of my fieldwork for my thesis

I never got up Sajama, but went past it on both my trips in the 1990's the first time, it was an overnighter hitching on the back of a flat bed truck from Patacamaya. That was before the fancy new road was built from Oruro, so it was a very bumpy night.

In reply to Daysleeper:
Getting out of the plane in El Alto having not acclimatised, enthusiastically swinging your heavy rucksack on to your back and run for a taxi. It won't end well.

In reply to Daysleeper:

If you've only got a few days, I'd recommend a couple of the downhill mountain bike rides...sounds like you won't have long enough to climb anything.

http://www.gravitybolivia.com/index.php?mod=homeb

The Chacaltaya to Zongo run is so awesome it feels like you're dreaming!

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

I'd agree with much of the above. It's a peak worth doing but you really need to acclimatise elsewhere. There are some obscure 5000+m volcanoes nearby (smoking, sometimes)but they're probably not worth the hassle, given the ease of access to the peaks of the Real.

I just caught an Arica bus from LaPaz, got dropped off at the turnoff and hitched a ride with a guy driving in. There was not much at Sajama village when I did it, ages ago (1999), but I stayed a night there on the way back. on the way in I walked to the BC area, then up to the high camp area the next day, summited next morning and then all the way down to the BC area that evening. Then did Parinacota a couple of days later. It's very easy, possibly the easiest 6000m *actual mountain* (ie. independent, and with snow on it etc) around.

In reply to Damo:

Is it safe to climb it solo? I take it you can hire mules at Sajama to carry stuff to basecamp??

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

'Safe' is up to you. There are no crevasses, but one place where there has been at least one fatal fall - on the ridge thing leading up to just before the traverse - and maybe on the short traverse itself, though I found it completely uneventful.

I hired a mule and arriero for approaching Parinacota, as its a long walk across a virtual desertscape, but for Sajama I just carried my own full pack and maybe something in my hand, IIRC. In fact one of the reasons I went there was to test the idea of whether I could just walk up to a big mountain and climb it alone solely under my own power. But I'm sure you could get a mule in Sajama village if you want.

In reply to Damo:

Yeah, fair comment. I'll be on my own, and I've no doubt there's plenty or scope for taking a fall and breaking a leg...which could have dire consequences of a remote and rarely frequented mountain. Might be wise to hire a local guide - I'll make the decision when I get there.

Interestingly, I've had a look at the volcanoes near to Arequipa in Peru such as Chachani and El Misti - these look perfect for acclimitisation. They're high and easy to access, non-technical with opportunities for overnight camping at high altitude.

It's possible to travel from Arequipa to Sajama by bus...looks like a winner.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

Mr Walrus

Make sure your mule is attractive and cuddly

Mr T

In reply to THE.WALRUS:
The 5000-5500m peaks in and around Chivay and the Colca canyon are much nicer to acclimatise on than either Chachani and Misti... both of which are fairly brutal (steep and loose) ascents to around 6000m, with (often) no water, so not really an easy stroll!
Around Chivay you have nice camping, running water, gentle valleys up to 4500m etc. etc., plus CHivay at 3500m with the "Worlds Highest Irish Pub", and directly across the square and 5 metres lower, what must be the worlds second highest Irish pub, but they don't bother to advertise the fact!
See here:-
http://www.andes.org.uk/firsts.asp#First Ascents in Peru 2013
John

In reply to Andes:

Thanks, John...I'll take your advice and head to the Irish pub.