/ Oldest piece of in situ gear?
I have used a pitony thing that I think dated from the 1920s. Can anyone better that?
When were the spikes placed on Pink Wall Traverse at Avon? Supposedly placed by workers in quarrying days, long ago, wish I knew when.
How about the wooden wedges around and about the place? I've seen quite a few of these about trying to think what the oldest one may be? This year I remember using one on Osiris at lewes castle but I doubt that was older than 1920's (don't have the guide book on me)
Some of the hand placed chock stones on grit must be pretty old. Probably some older than 1920's.
Is the answer Dennis Gray?
I'm pretty sure the Matterhorn had a lot of in-situ gear by the 1890s, some of which is bound to be still in place.
Some of the crack lines at Black rocks have chock stones which may be the original ones placed around 1900?
I thought they might be... And thanks very much for your reply.
Does anyone know how old the spanner is at Running Hill Pits?
There's probably plenty of ~100 yr old stuff in Saxon sandstone; I have a mate who comes from around there, I'll ask him at the wall this evening if I remember
The oldest "Ringe" (of course they don't call them bolts, or use regular bolts as across the border in Czech sandstone, that would be too easy) must be around 100 years. However, they tend to come out eventually, often by erosion of the surrounding rock, and have to be replaced at regular intervals.
Yes, I suppose the main thing you need for an old relic surviving is a)climbing to have been taking place then and b) really heavy-duty bits of gear. Apparently the 'bolts' on Czech Sandstone(and German) had to be large enough for you to put your shoulder through, so that you could untie, feed the rope through, and then retie. That means they're pretty big and can survive pretty well. Climbing has also being going on for yonks too.
If you're talking about UK gear that was placed for the intention of recreational climbing, then I guess you'd have to go to the lakes?
Depends a bit though. It isnt until the 1950s that you start to get gear that will still be surviving (pre 50s gear tends to be wooden wedges and hemp rope). Ethical concerns would also ensure cleanish crags. The oldest UK gear I can think of is the machine nut left at the top of wall buttress of presumably 1950s vintage.
I thought I'd heard stories of spikes being banged into sea cliffs to help people get to guls nests for the eggs. Not sure where I heard this or how old they might be.
If the iron pipe at the belay of Jeffcoat's Buttress (Roaches) dates from the first ascent then it is 100 years old this year!
1/7/1936, Munich Climb Tryfan. 2 pegs which Menlove Edwards then removed using a poker before leading the route.
kinda cheating, but i climbed huashan in central china (often seen in 'how crazy is this!! websites, been on here a few times), and some of the stuff up there is centuries old
> This year I remember using one on Osiris at lewes castle but I doubt that was older than 1920's (don't have the guide book on me)
Osiris was climbed in 1967. Not 1920s old. Don't think people really started climbing much on the Gower till the 1950s (going by FA details).
There was an old piece of hemp dangling from the innards of Mackinder's Chimney on Mt Kenya when we did it; it's thought that it could well go back to M's first ascent in 1899.
> There's probably plenty of ~100 yr old stuff in Saxon sandstone; I have a mate who comes from around there, I'll ask him at the wall this evening if I remember
... nearly everything re-equipped since reunification, was the disappointing answer.
The bedouin have been climbing in the mountains of Wadi Rum for, I imagine, centuries, and there's plenty of jammed blocks, tree branches, teetery cairns and cut holds (are they in situ *gear*?) to assist.
A couple of years ago, in the Dolomites, I was abseiling the second Sella tower in that gully between the second and third tower and at some point there was an “anchor” with 2 or 3 pitons (cant’ recall)…one of them were not old, but two were really old and once I let myself go, put weight on the “anchor” and saw them moving in some sort of f**ked up synchronization, they looked like a thousand years old to me! So I guess age is somewhat relative
Elsewhere on the site
Urban climber James Kingston will be on stage at all UK screenings to answer questions about his remarkable film... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
Save £20 when you buy a Petzl Elios Helmet!! The Petzl Elios helmet (2013 Version) is tough & durable,... Read more
Shortly after the sun crested Half Dome on 28th October, two of Yosemite Valley’s fastest women started up the Yosemite... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more