UKC Forums - 70 metre rope, 30 metre climb

70 metre rope, 30 metre climb

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Firestarter 17 Nov 2013

Set up a top rope, anchors bombproof. Rope over the edge and abseil down (about 30 meters of rope spare. Should I get belayer to pull that 30 metres back up so I can tie in to end of rope, or is it ok to figure 8 on the bight and clip it to belay loop?

needvert 17 Nov 2013

In reply to Firestarter:

Either's fine. Some recommend two biners in case one undoes its self.

There's a recent huge thread about tying into the middle of the rope somewhere around UKC (and probably a few more in recent history on the same topic).

OP Firestarter 17 Nov 2013

In reply to needvert:

Cheers - I'll have a trawl.

Jonny2vests 17 Nov 2013

In reply to Firestarter:

I'd always to in to the end, purely because I don't like the things dangling down, getting under my feet and stuck around things. Its not dangerous to tie in elsewhere though.

Michael Gordon 18 Nov 2013

In reply to Firestarter:

> Set up a top rope, anchors bombproof. Rope over the edge and abseil down (about 30 meters of rope spare. Should I get belayer to pull that 30 metres back up so I can tie in to end of rope, or is it ok to figure 8 on the bight and clip it to belay loop?

Wouldn't there only be 10m of spare rope?

OP Firestarter 18 Nov 2013

In reply to Michael Gordon:

No. 10 used for anchors, 30 down wall, 30 left.

Michael Gordon 18 Nov 2013

In reply to Firestarter:

Ah right, gotcha

Otis 18 Nov 2013

In reply to Firestarter:

ere's an alternative. Throw enough rope down to safely abseil on, tie a figure 8 on a bight in the bit of rope you're holding, clip this to your anchors and then ab down.

Hey presto-you're at the bottom with just enough rope to tie into the end. The 30m of rope you're not interested in stays at the top of the crag.

mike

OP Firestarter 18 Nov 2013

In reply to Otis:

That'll do. Cheers!

Jimbo C 18 Nov 2013

In reply to Firestarter:

So, the belayer is staying at the top right? If they're sittiing nicely without the rope running over the edge, you could tie into the end, let them lower you down, and then you're already on belay and ready to climb as soon as you touch down.