In reply to nicholas.groom:
For basic, position-only GPS receiver, the suggestions of old-model Garmins are probably good & cheap. Etrex-H, or Geko 201 are the first to use the SiRFStarIII high-sensitivity chipset (which was a fairly significant step in receiver sensitivity).
As for modern smartphones, whilst their antennas might be somewhat compromised due to the form factor, screen and general RF crud from all the processing going on, they are likely to be using very modern chipsets, and benefit from the improved sensitivity & increased numbers of parallel correlators available, thus allowing them to receive & track more satellites than the 12-channel SiRFStarIII; my recent Hudl was tracking 13 GPS satellites the first time I used it (and that's probably how many are visible at one time).
The downside of increased sensitivity is the ability for the receiver to track reflections, so the receiver can sometimes be fooled into giving a fix that is some distance from 'reality'; I've experienced this in hilly areas, and spotted the problem only for the receiver to snap back to where I thought we ought to be (using a prominent landmark as reference).
As for all GPS receivers providing a position display, this is, oddly, not true... There are some very cheap receivers available that are intended for 'point me to the car' use. These aren't much use in the hills, and could be dangerous if a naiive user simply followed the line-of-sight path back to the marked point; off a cliff, for instance... This latter is true for any receiver that offers such a facility, and must only be used with brain engaged. SPOT trackers don't have a display, either, but do include a GPS receiver for position reporting.
One option that I haven't seen mentioned is to buy a cheap GPS tracker device which has a Bluetooth connection; use this to find and track your position, and connect to it with a smartphone when you need it (you'll need an app that is able to take Bluetooth GPS data). Saves having the smartphone turned on all the time.
My suspicion of the iPhone flight mode not being able to use GPS is that they may have used the phone RF subsystem to generate the GPS local oscillator (LO).
I think smartphone manufacturers will eventually cotton on that there's a market for a rugged phone with good battery life and power control. Sony & Motorola have produced more robust phones, and Decathlon announced an 'outdoor smartphone' only last week.
http://www.quechuaphone.com/
One other thing to bear in mind with the 'GPS receiver only turned on in an emergency'; remember that, if it has been turned off for a long time, it will need to acquire almanac and ephemeris data, and that can take a while (12.5 minutes) if you don't have A-GPS, and can only see one satellite.
You could always build your own receiver...
http://www.holmea.demon.co.uk/GPS/Main.htm
Funnily enough, he uses two technologies I'm familiar with; fractional-N synthesizers (where I started my career, developing an ASIC for Vodafone's first GSM service), and Forth programming (which I played with in my youth...)