UKC

I'm at the very early stage of planning my travels to south America and welcome any suggestions I will be traveling on my own but want to get some decent mountains under my belt that aren't just walks

any particular countries or areas recommended? I will be going from nov 2014 -jan 2015

In reply to Jackspratt:

At that time of year you'll need to avoid Peru and Bolivia. Colombia can be good, but a bit patchy for weather. You're bet bet is to head for Chile and Argentina where it is mid-summer and there are lots of mountains of all shapes and sizes.

In reply to Jackspratt:

The volcanoes of Ecuador and Mexico will be in condition during that time of year.

As are the volcanoes in Southern Peru (Arequippa area) and cantral Bolivia...Sajama et al.

In reply to THE.WALRUS: are they realistic to solo or are they so isolated that it would be reckless? any idea on where to get route information please?

In reply to Jackspratt:

Sajama is in the middle of nowhere!!!!

In reply to Jackspratt:

I think it's safe to solo the volcanoes in Mexico - most people tend to climb a lower peak like Malinche, followed by Iztaccihuatl and then Orizaba.

Orizaba and Izta are glaciated. The glacier on Izta is tiny and there's no need to rope up. There's quite a lot of loose rock and route finding can be difficult, though. If you're climbing alone, I suggest that you climb over a weekend when there will be other parties of local climbers about...I haven't been able to find a decent map and RJ Secor's guide (Mexico's Volcanoes') is no longer accurate (due to volcanic activity, it was accurate when most recently re-printed in 2001).

Climbing Orizaba involves crossing the Jamapa glacier. Many people rope-up for it, but I have seen plenty climb it solo - there are very few crevasses (mostly tiny, you can stride over them), the terrain is pretty straightforward and there's aren't any route finding difficulties. It steepens to about 50deg near to the summit, though - if you slipped here you'd take a huge fall. It wouldn't be wise to climb solo after recent snowfall, as this might cover up the crevasses.

I wouldn't advise climbing any of the big volcanoes in Ecuador solo as they're heavily crevassed. The weather in Ecuador can be quite unstable, too.

The possibly exception to this would be Iliniza Norte - this is a rocky, scrambling peak with no glacier to cross and fairly straight forward route finding. I've climbed this solo a couple of times.

The volcanoes in southern Peru are mostly walk-up's…I've only been there once so I can't really offer much advice. I know that Chachani and El Misti are popular climbs with no technical difficulties and pretty easy access from Arequippa - you can climb them in a couple of days from Arequippa. I climbed Chachani about 10 years ago, solo. It's very high, but the terrain is straight forward.

Sajama is still on the 'to do' list - a good idea would be to head to Arequippa in Southern Peru first for some acclimatisation climbs, then cross into Bolivia and have a crack at Sajama. This would be an excellent trip.

If you're looking to do some research, I'd recommend that you get your hands on John Biggar's book…far and away the best general guide book available for the Andes.

You could start your research here:

Ecuador: www.gorillamountaineering.co.uk/south-america-expeditions/south-america/ecuadors-volcanoes.html

Mexico: www.gorillamountaineering.co.uk/south-america-expeditions/south-america/mexicos-volcanoes.html

In reply to Jackspratt:

Given your level of experience as indicated by your profile(?) I would not recommend soloing Sajama out of season. I have soloed it in season. Though people talk about Sajama and Parinacota/Pomerape being possible in Nov-March, this is really just relative to the rest of the Bolivian peaks which are absolutely not good in that time. Sajama and co are likely to have deep soft snow and bad weather, not the reason you go to this area, Bolivia being great for good weather and good climbing conditions. IN season.

Ecuador might be a good choice, but note that they have banned all unguided climbing above 5000m, so you would need to hire a guide there.

Mexico is not South America, the main drawcard is Orizaba, but that's a long way to go for just that. The 2nd-highest there is currently off limits due to eruptions and the other peaks are unlikely to be what you are after, given your OP.

As John from Andes has rightly said, that time of year is best in the central Andes. I think you'd get a lot more out of visiting Mendoza and, if you want to stay away from Aconcagua, spend a couple of weeks out in the Cordon del Plata http://www.summitpost.org/cordon-del-plata/170924 If you go in November there should still be snow in the couloirs on Vallecitos and Rincon.

Then for something more remote, but also without glaciers so you can solo, visit the Ansilta peaks north of Mercedario. http://www.summitpost.org/mercedario/150323 Check them out on Google Earth, west of San Juan.

This is a beautiful area, these peaks north and south of Aconcagua. Volcan Maipo is also a nice little trip for a few days out of Mendoza - aesthetic peak, no crevasses. You can sleep and eat cheaply in Mendoza, it's a nice place to hang out and there are shops with climbing gear and all you need.

In reply to Damo:

How long has the ban on unguided climbing >5000m been in-force in Ecuador? I heard rumours that this was being considered after a fatal accident on Iliniza Sur earlier in the year...but I assumed they'd though better of it.

Access to Iztaccihuatl is back on, I climbed it last month. That said, the warden at the Altzomoni refuge (who is also a Volcanologist) seems to think that eruptions from Popocateptl are highly likely, so there's a good chance that this could change in the near future, and at a moments notice.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:
[edit] Just checked and it began in 2012 it seems, but then later that year it began to actually be enforced, particularly in after that accident, iirc. There are scattered references to it being enforced this year in some forum threads on Summitpost.

Of course it may die a natural death, or be changed in the future, depending on adherence, enforceability, demand etc. I don't care about Ecuador, but I'd hate to see it used as a precedent for Peru or Bolivia.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/gov-t-restrictions-in-ecuador-t63791.html

In reply to Jackspratt:

Thanks very much for all the info guys I know I'm inexperienced but I'm also not an idiot and know my limits I'm going to use the trip to get my first real experience of altitude climbing and not gonna try anything too technical. I'm a big believer in determination getting you a long way as long as its not all that's relied upon!