This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
I have been working within climbing walls now for the past 4 years. The question I always get asked when buying new climbing shoes is "do you get a shoe that fits or get a size down?". I have personally tried having the climbing shoes a size down and my climbing suffered as a result of this because it made my feet hurt! But the climbing shops seem to be giving advice on getting a smaller size of shoe. I would personally recommend climbing with a shoe that fits. What are your thoughts on this? Would you go for a climbing shoe a size down or that fits?
In reply to Hardmanryan:
Its depends entirely on the particular shoe and what you want it for.
This is a useful article: http://www.rockrun.com/wp/rock-shoe-sizing-guide/
Its depends entirely on the particular shoe and what you want it for.
This is a useful article: http://www.rockrun.com/wp/rock-shoe-sizing-guide/
In reply to Hardmanryan:
The size that fits best. If that also happens to be comfortable, then you're onto a winner.
Choosing a shoe that is comfortable but doesn't fit is idiotic. Choosing a shoe that fits, then randomly buying a smaller size is also idiotic.
> This is a climbing shoe for indoor use, most of the time it is a first time buy. I still would go with the shoe that fits most comfortable. Would you do for a size down or a size that is conforable?
The size that fits best. If that also happens to be comfortable, then you're onto a winner.
Choosing a shoe that is comfortable but doesn't fit is idiotic. Choosing a shoe that fits, then randomly buying a smaller size is also idiotic.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
That's my thoughts completely! Why has this myth come about that if you get a shoe that is a size down, then your going to climb better and this is some of the advice that my clients at the wall have been given from shops!
That's my thoughts completely! Why has this myth come about that if you get a shoe that is a size down, then your going to climb better and this is some of the advice that my clients at the wall have been given from shops!
In reply to Hardmanryan:
I wonder how many people out there have bought shoes that are too small and ended up with painful feet for months. I know I have.
I wonder how many people out there have bought shoes that are too small and ended up with painful feet for months. I know I have.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
I guess the problem is that a shoe that fits out of the box won't necessarily fit once you've broken it in. That means you have to play a bit of a guessing game to get a good fit in a months time after the shoe is broken in.
Given the large variability in the shape of peoples feet, the shape of shoes and the amount of stretch in shoes it's hardly surprising that some people downsize too far. Barring a monumental leap in shoe design I can't see this changing.
I guess the problem is that a shoe that fits out of the box won't necessarily fit once you've broken it in. That means you have to play a bit of a guessing game to get a good fit in a months time after the shoe is broken in.
Given the large variability in the shape of peoples feet, the shape of shoes and the amount of stretch in shoes it's hardly surprising that some people downsize too far. Barring a monumental leap in shoe design I can't see this changing.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
Buy shoes that fit. If it were sensible to buy shoes a size too small, then they would be sized that way in the first place.
Buy shoes that fit. If it were sensible to buy shoes a size too small, then they would be sized that way in the first place.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
I have about 4 pairs of different brands and sizes all are comfortable one brand i have is actually half size bigger!!
I have about 4 pairs of different brands and sizes all are comfortable one brand i have is actually half size bigger!!
In reply to Hardmanryan:
The advice printed on the back of the box that my 5.10 Anasazis came in;
- PAIN IS INSANE – DO NOT FIT YOUR SHOES TOO TIGHT. (This was in red capitals)
- Rock shoes are unique, no 2 designs fit alike. Generally, softer shoes perform best with a snug fit. Stiffer shoes can be worn looser.
- Eliminate dead space but don't fit so tight as to create hot spots.
- Climbing shoes should not be uncomfortably tight otherwise tears might keep you from seeing micro edges.
- Feet swell during the day , from ½ to a full size. Try on shoes in the afternoon if possible.
- Synthetic uppers won't stretch – you'll have the same fit in six months. You should have no hot spots when you are up on your toes.
I'd stick with the manufacturer's advice for a shoe that fits.
The advice printed on the back of the box that my 5.10 Anasazis came in;
- PAIN IS INSANE – DO NOT FIT YOUR SHOES TOO TIGHT. (This was in red capitals)
- Rock shoes are unique, no 2 designs fit alike. Generally, softer shoes perform best with a snug fit. Stiffer shoes can be worn looser.
- Eliminate dead space but don't fit so tight as to create hot spots.
- Climbing shoes should not be uncomfortably tight otherwise tears might keep you from seeing micro edges.
- Feet swell during the day , from ½ to a full size. Try on shoes in the afternoon if possible.
- Synthetic uppers won't stretch – you'll have the same fit in six months. You should have no hot spots when you are up on your toes.
I'd stick with the manufacturer's advice for a shoe that fits.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
There really can be no hard rule, in the more technical La Sportiva shoes you need to go at least 2 sizes down.
There really can be no hard rule, in the more technical La Sportiva shoes you need to go at least 2 sizes down.
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:
That sounds like a hard rule?
Chris
> There really can be no hard rule, in the more technical La Sportiva shoes you need to go at least 2 sizes down.
That sounds like a hard rule?
Chris
In reply to Hardmanryan:
It's easy to get a comfortable shoe that fits and performs well straight out of the box. The trick is picking one that is the same after a few outings. , that's why my miuras are 2 sizes down from my shoe size.
It's easy to get a comfortable shoe that fits and performs well straight out of the box. The trick is picking one that is the same after a few outings. , that's why my miuras are 2 sizes down from my shoe size.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I'll admit to this, it's also cost me a few quid selling on shoes I've bought that turned out to be to small. Sometimes this is due to the shoes not stretching as much as anticipated, other times it's just my stupidity.
> I wonder how many people out there have bought shoes that are too small and ended up with painful feet for months. I know I have.
I'll admit to this, it's also cost me a few quid selling on shoes I've bought that turned out to be to small. Sometimes this is due to the shoes not stretching as much as anticipated, other times it's just my stupidity.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
Initially, I think, you're confusing fit and size; they're not the same thing. Feet come in a variety of different shapes and, to accomodate this phenomenon, so do shoes; a good fit, therefore, is one that closely approximates your foot shape. A shoe that isn't a good fit, but is large enough to be comfortable, won't actually hurt; fine - except that it will probably also be neither precise nor sensitive. So, clearly, the first thing that a buyer must do is identify which models fit and which don't; and any reasonable range on offer will almost certainly include a few of the former. So try on as many as you can find. Try them in tight sizes; a tight shoe that also doesn't fit well will probably hurt in specific locations with "dead space" in others, whereas a tight shoe that fits will just feel....tight.
Once you've identified an actual model, the size you use will probably be best determined by what you're going to use them for; yes, I know - climbing! But is that entry level indoor climbing/hard indoor climbing/everyday outdoor climbing/everyday outdoor easy or warmup routes/outdoor "hardest edging you've ever done" routes - etc? I'm probably making that sound more complicated than it actually is; several of the broad use categories will happily be undertaken using the same footwear. As a (very) rough guide, I generally use suitable models of shoe in three different sizes - ie three adjacent euro sizes (inc halves), in my case 39, 39.5, and 40.(These tend to be La Sportiva Miura and Katana, so the fact that they range from tight to comfy, and that my shoe size is UK8, rather lends support to the idea that you need to go "small" with Sportiva.) The large size is probably the one that I would buy if simply going for what felt snug in the shop. The middle size would probably be a struggle to get on initially, but would soon feel a bit better and possibly wearable; once worn in, this is the size that I use most, and perfectly comfortably. The smallest size would possibly be dismissed in the shop as I probably wouldn't be able to get into them; but I buy them anyway because, with experience (ie many pairs of each), I know they'll fit with a bit of persistence and wearing in, and be the best thing in the arsenal for anything particularly small and edgy.
A cautionary point: the Sportiva models - and others - on which my experience is based are largely made of suede leather, which stretches; some shoes - 5.10 Anasazis, for example - are made of a synthetic material that doesn't stretch as much. This is probably common knowledge among 9 out of 10 climbers, but as it's maybe the 1(or fewer) out of 10 who need advice on shoe selection it's worth mentioning.
To (finally!) answer the question; if I were starting out again I would buy my "large" size - ie the ones that feel snug in the shop; they'll be fine on most walls indoors (I still use my old large ones with holes in the toes as a warm-up pair indoors) and at this stage you're unlikely to be doing anything on rock that will require the precision of a tighter fit. By the time you've worn them out and are looking for a replacement you'll have a much better idea of what you need, how tight they need to be, whether you could have used your first pair in a smaller size, whether it would be better to have a couple of pairs on the go instead of just one, etc....in short, you'll probably know the answer and won't have to ask.
Initially, I think, you're confusing fit and size; they're not the same thing. Feet come in a variety of different shapes and, to accomodate this phenomenon, so do shoes; a good fit, therefore, is one that closely approximates your foot shape. A shoe that isn't a good fit, but is large enough to be comfortable, won't actually hurt; fine - except that it will probably also be neither precise nor sensitive. So, clearly, the first thing that a buyer must do is identify which models fit and which don't; and any reasonable range on offer will almost certainly include a few of the former. So try on as many as you can find. Try them in tight sizes; a tight shoe that also doesn't fit well will probably hurt in specific locations with "dead space" in others, whereas a tight shoe that fits will just feel....tight.
Once you've identified an actual model, the size you use will probably be best determined by what you're going to use them for; yes, I know - climbing! But is that entry level indoor climbing/hard indoor climbing/everyday outdoor climbing/everyday outdoor easy or warmup routes/outdoor "hardest edging you've ever done" routes - etc? I'm probably making that sound more complicated than it actually is; several of the broad use categories will happily be undertaken using the same footwear. As a (very) rough guide, I generally use suitable models of shoe in three different sizes - ie three adjacent euro sizes (inc halves), in my case 39, 39.5, and 40.(These tend to be La Sportiva Miura and Katana, so the fact that they range from tight to comfy, and that my shoe size is UK8, rather lends support to the idea that you need to go "small" with Sportiva.) The large size is probably the one that I would buy if simply going for what felt snug in the shop. The middle size would probably be a struggle to get on initially, but would soon feel a bit better and possibly wearable; once worn in, this is the size that I use most, and perfectly comfortably. The smallest size would possibly be dismissed in the shop as I probably wouldn't be able to get into them; but I buy them anyway because, with experience (ie many pairs of each), I know they'll fit with a bit of persistence and wearing in, and be the best thing in the arsenal for anything particularly small and edgy.
A cautionary point: the Sportiva models - and others - on which my experience is based are largely made of suede leather, which stretches; some shoes - 5.10 Anasazis, for example - are made of a synthetic material that doesn't stretch as much. This is probably common knowledge among 9 out of 10 climbers, but as it's maybe the 1(or fewer) out of 10 who need advice on shoe selection it's worth mentioning.
To (finally!) answer the question; if I were starting out again I would buy my "large" size - ie the ones that feel snug in the shop; they'll be fine on most walls indoors (I still use my old large ones with holes in the toes as a warm-up pair indoors) and at this stage you're unlikely to be doing anything on rock that will require the precision of a tighter fit. By the time you've worn them out and are looking for a replacement you'll have a much better idea of what you need, how tight they need to be, whether you could have used your first pair in a smaller size, whether it would be better to have a couple of pairs on the go instead of just one, etc....in short, you'll probably know the answer and won't have to ask.
In reply to Hardmanryan: buy the size that fits - as you say ( and I experienced ) your climbing suffers because your feet hurt so much - where's the fun in that !!?
In reply to Hardmanryan:
Thank you all for your views on this matter. It's interesting to hear everybody's perspectives.
Thank you all for your views on this matter. It's interesting to hear everybody's perspectives.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
The implied assumption here is to have only one pair of shoes, which means you always compromise on something.
For my feet, I've found Sportiva to suit and perform. A worn in pair of Cobras one size down for all day wear, grit slabs and swollen feet in Spain. Two size down cobras for harder bouldering, and 2.5 down Solutions for stuff I'm really struggling with.
So it's worth having more than one pair, sized to the type of climbing you do.
The implied assumption here is to have only one pair of shoes, which means you always compromise on something.
For my feet, I've found Sportiva to suit and perform. A worn in pair of Cobras one size down for all day wear, grit slabs and swollen feet in Spain. Two size down cobras for harder bouldering, and 2.5 down Solutions for stuff I'm really struggling with.
So it's worth having more than one pair, sized to the type of climbing you do.
In reply to Ian Parsons:
Good advice for keen talented climbers Ian but not so much for the beginner or low performing average climber. The result of over-tight shoes can be permanently damaged feet, including bunions or worse. From wearing over-tight shoes you get maybe to stand more easily on edges for a few minutes that, better technique from climbing longer in more comfy shoes would eventually enable anyhow.
In an ideal world I'd force anyone selling shoes to some classes with a climbing podiatrist. Anyone in their first year or so of climbing or barely climbing harder than Font5 should be wearing snug shoes with thin socks. The 5.10 advice on the box is spot on.
Good advice for keen talented climbers Ian but not so much for the beginner or low performing average climber. The result of over-tight shoes can be permanently damaged feet, including bunions or worse. From wearing over-tight shoes you get maybe to stand more easily on edges for a few minutes that, better technique from climbing longer in more comfy shoes would eventually enable anyhow.
In an ideal world I'd force anyone selling shoes to some classes with a climbing podiatrist. Anyone in their first year or so of climbing or barely climbing harder than Font5 should be wearing snug shoes with thin socks. The 5.10 advice on the box is spot on.
In reply to Offwidth:
That's great advice, that is exactly what I tell my clients when they ask. I was a fond believer that if I wear no socks I could feel the rock better, my shoes then stunk and my shoes got slimy inside. I now wear a thin sock and have shoes that fit comfortably but not over tight. My climbing has improved! Does anyone else wear socks when climbing. Does this really make a difference on the feel of the rock?
That's great advice, that is exactly what I tell my clients when they ask. I was a fond believer that if I wear no socks I could feel the rock better, my shoes then stunk and my shoes got slimy inside. I now wear a thin sock and have shoes that fit comfortably but not over tight. My climbing has improved! Does anyone else wear socks when climbing. Does this really make a difference on the feel of the rock?
In reply to Hardmanryan:
I have always worn socks, it means I can wear rock shoes for several hours with no discomfort.
Tight shoes is one option, learning to use your feet is another!
Chris
> Does anyone else wear socks when climbing. Does this really make a difference on the feel of the rock?
I have always worn socks, it means I can wear rock shoes for several hours with no discomfort.
Tight shoes is one option, learning to use your feet is another!
Chris
In reply to Hardmanryan:
I always wear socks when climbing. A lot more comfortable, warmer and protect the ankles a little (important on grit). I don't think it affects my climbing negatively, although at my level routes have massive footholds.
I always wear socks when climbing. A lot more comfortable, warmer and protect the ankles a little (important on grit). I don't think it affects my climbing negatively, although at my level routes have massive footholds.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Hi Chris, I don't think they're mutually exclusive are they?
> Tight shoes is one option, learning to use your feet is another!
> Chris
Hi Chris, I don't think they're mutually exclusive are they?
In reply to Offwidth:
Barring the socks, I think that as far as first-time buyers are concerned we're saying more or less the same thing; you mentioned the word "snug", as indeed did I. To be honest I'd completely forgotten about socks; I wore them for the first twenty years or so of my climbing "career" - up until the late 1980s - and pretty much never since then. But I agree; a first-time buyer isn't likely to be doing anything noticeably taxing shoe-wise, and wearing something that needs to be removed after each climb (for reasons of comfort) isn't particularly convenient.
I certainly share your concern about damaged feet - having suffered that myself - but I'm inclined to believe, in my case at least, that it was due to poorly-fitting rather than poorly-sized shoes; specifically - in that instance, and I'm sure no further explanation is necessary - the result of trying to stuff a "Morton's" foot into a radically asymmetric shoe.
Having said all that, though, I don't think that the OP specifically defined his "client base". One assumes that he instructs them to some degree at a climbing wall, but I think that that's all we know. Judging by the degree to which shoe rental seems to be a part of the modern indoor scenario I would guess that the people to whom he refers are not complete beginners; I would imagine that they've got beyond that stage and are first-time buyers who are hoping to strike out a bit further, certainly into harder stuff at the wall but also presumably onto proper rock. That immediately begs the question "what sort of rock?". If we're talking Peak District, then the easy stuff is more-or-less confined to gritstone - manageable, as I recall from the days before rockboot-ownership - in pretty much anything. Unless, of course, you're trying "easy" limestone; the big boot and/or plimsoll approach always seemed less effective at Stoney Middleton. In the same vein moderate routes on North Wales mountain rock probably don't demand too much of ones footwear, while similar stuff on the limestone around Chepstow or Bristol probably do. The point that I'm trying to make in all this is that the degree to which one requires "performance" from ones chosen footwear depends not only on the level of difficulty at which one hopes to perform, but also upon the type of rock one hopes to do it on.
Were I a young and committed climber I probably wouldn't worry too much about the risk of buying a shoe that - at the moment - seemed either too tight or too big; one way or another I'd get use out of it, either as a super-technical half-hour-at-a-time sort of shoe, or as a long-route real comfy one. I'd simply buy another more immediately appropriate pair (possibly for less than the price of a pair of trendy trainers) and - hey presto! - I would now have the nucleus of an arsenal!
Merry Christmas, one and all!
> Good advice for keen talented climbers Ian but not so much for the beginner or low performing average climber. The result of over-tight shoes can be permanently damaged feet, including bunions or worse. From wearing over-tight shoes you get maybe to stand more easily on edges for a few minutes that, better technique from climbing longer in more comfy shoes would eventually enable anyhow.
> In an ideal world I'd force anyone selling shoes to some classes with a climbing podiatrist. Anyone in their first year or so of climbing or barely climbing harder than Font5 should be wearing snug shoes with thin socks. The 5.10 advice on the box is spot on.
Barring the socks, I think that as far as first-time buyers are concerned we're saying more or less the same thing; you mentioned the word "snug", as indeed did I. To be honest I'd completely forgotten about socks; I wore them for the first twenty years or so of my climbing "career" - up until the late 1980s - and pretty much never since then. But I agree; a first-time buyer isn't likely to be doing anything noticeably taxing shoe-wise, and wearing something that needs to be removed after each climb (for reasons of comfort) isn't particularly convenient.
I certainly share your concern about damaged feet - having suffered that myself - but I'm inclined to believe, in my case at least, that it was due to poorly-fitting rather than poorly-sized shoes; specifically - in that instance, and I'm sure no further explanation is necessary - the result of trying to stuff a "Morton's" foot into a radically asymmetric shoe.
Having said all that, though, I don't think that the OP specifically defined his "client base". One assumes that he instructs them to some degree at a climbing wall, but I think that that's all we know. Judging by the degree to which shoe rental seems to be a part of the modern indoor scenario I would guess that the people to whom he refers are not complete beginners; I would imagine that they've got beyond that stage and are first-time buyers who are hoping to strike out a bit further, certainly into harder stuff at the wall but also presumably onto proper rock. That immediately begs the question "what sort of rock?". If we're talking Peak District, then the easy stuff is more-or-less confined to gritstone - manageable, as I recall from the days before rockboot-ownership - in pretty much anything. Unless, of course, you're trying "easy" limestone; the big boot and/or plimsoll approach always seemed less effective at Stoney Middleton. In the same vein moderate routes on North Wales mountain rock probably don't demand too much of ones footwear, while similar stuff on the limestone around Chepstow or Bristol probably do. The point that I'm trying to make in all this is that the degree to which one requires "performance" from ones chosen footwear depends not only on the level of difficulty at which one hopes to perform, but also upon the type of rock one hopes to do it on.
Were I a young and committed climber I probably wouldn't worry too much about the risk of buying a shoe that - at the moment - seemed either too tight or too big; one way or another I'd get use out of it, either as a super-technical half-hour-at-a-time sort of shoe, or as a long-route real comfy one. I'd simply buy another more immediately appropriate pair (possibly for less than the price of a pair of trendy trainers) and - hey presto! - I would now have the nucleus of an arsenal!
Merry Christmas, one and all!
Post edited at 01:47
In reply to Hardmanryan:
my shoes then stunk and my shoes got slimy inside.
Were these shoes made of a synthetic material, by any chance? Not a problem from which I - or others nearby - normally suffer, but I recall a couple of synthetic pairs from a Spanish manufacturer (who will remain anonymous) that produced an effect akin to having a ripe Stilton strapped to each foot. Great with the post-turkey port, but a bit of a faux-pas at Malham!
my shoes then stunk and my shoes got slimy inside.
Were these shoes made of a synthetic material, by any chance? Not a problem from which I - or others nearby - normally suffer, but I recall a couple of synthetic pairs from a Spanish manufacturer (who will remain anonymous) that produced an effect akin to having a ripe Stilton strapped to each foot. Great with the post-turkey port, but a bit of a faux-pas at Malham!
In reply to planetmarshall:
I would agree with your argument entirely, were it not for its apparent implication that all rock shoes are sized in the same way; as most of us know, they are not.
> Buy shoes that fit. If it were sensible to buy shoes a size too small, then they would be sized that way in the first place.
I would agree with your argument entirely, were it not for its apparent implication that all rock shoes are sized in the same way; as most of us know, they are not.
In reply to Ian Parsons:
The shoes I had was symthic, I just couldn't shake the smell or the slim that had formed inside I wouldn't buy a symthic again! It made my climbing go down a couple of grades. My advice to people buying climbing shoes would still be get a non symthic shoe and get the shoe to fit comfortably with a thin shock to stop the build up of the odd slimy stuff and smell, not to go a size down either even if climbing hard grades. I have found that people slip of the heal and stand on the heals shoe this will damage the shoe, again all because the idea of a size down will be better for climbing this isn't true I still believe strongly that this is a myth!
MERRY CHRISTMAS!! 🎅🎄
The shoes I had was symthic, I just couldn't shake the smell or the slim that had formed inside I wouldn't buy a symthic again! It made my climbing go down a couple of grades. My advice to people buying climbing shoes would still be get a non symthic shoe and get the shoe to fit comfortably with a thin shock to stop the build up of the odd slimy stuff and smell, not to go a size down either even if climbing hard grades. I have found that people slip of the heal and stand on the heals shoe this will damage the shoe, again all because the idea of a size down will be better for climbing this isn't true I still believe strongly that this is a myth!
MERRY CHRISTMAS!! 🎅🎄
In reply to Hardmanryan:
Sounds like you've had a particularly unsavoury time shoe-wise! If things are slimy to the extent that your well-lubricated feet are rolling inside the shoes that will certainly compromise performance and, by keeping things a bit drier, a sock may well be an improvement. Many people don't seem to suffer in the same way, however, and as you recommend socks specifically to counter this problem - at least that's what your post above appears to suggest - it follows therefore that for many people, and for that particular reason, they are unnecessary. If it's a matter of comfort, of course, they might be entirely appropriate.
I confess I'm still uncertain, though, as to what you actually mean by "going down a size"; down from what? Your normal shoe size? I have a pair of 5.10 Anasazis that are labelled UK8/Euro42 - my normal shoe size; they are about the same size as, although slightly less comfortable than, my size 40 Katanas which are also labelled as UK 6.5. Does this mean that the Anasazis are the correct size because their label happens to say "8", whereas the (in practise more suitable) Katanas are a size-and-a-half too small because their label happens to say something different? With such variation between manufacturers, and occasionally between different models of the same brand, what do you use as a yardstick to determine what size a particular shoe actually is - other than simply trying them on until you find a size that, for you, feels right. If you mean that, having done this, a salesperson then wades in with "right - now go down a size" I would agree with you entirely; ignore him. They're your feet!
Sounds like you've had a particularly unsavoury time shoe-wise! If things are slimy to the extent that your well-lubricated feet are rolling inside the shoes that will certainly compromise performance and, by keeping things a bit drier, a sock may well be an improvement. Many people don't seem to suffer in the same way, however, and as you recommend socks specifically to counter this problem - at least that's what your post above appears to suggest - it follows therefore that for many people, and for that particular reason, they are unnecessary. If it's a matter of comfort, of course, they might be entirely appropriate.
I confess I'm still uncertain, though, as to what you actually mean by "going down a size"; down from what? Your normal shoe size? I have a pair of 5.10 Anasazis that are labelled UK8/Euro42 - my normal shoe size; they are about the same size as, although slightly less comfortable than, my size 40 Katanas which are also labelled as UK 6.5. Does this mean that the Anasazis are the correct size because their label happens to say "8", whereas the (in practise more suitable) Katanas are a size-and-a-half too small because their label happens to say something different? With such variation between manufacturers, and occasionally between different models of the same brand, what do you use as a yardstick to determine what size a particular shoe actually is - other than simply trying them on until you find a size that, for you, feels right. If you mean that, having done this, a salesperson then wades in with "right - now go down a size" I would agree with you entirely; ignore him. They're your feet!
In reply to Ian Parsons:
I tollaly agree the "size down" I mean if your 9 then a climbing shoe I would be a size 8 to 8 and a half. I wouldn't listen to the sells people but so many people are doing this at the mo, there are at least 5-6 people I have come across at the climbing wall I work complaining about the climbing shoes hurting due to the sells person advising a size down. The advise needs to change.
Merry Christmas.
I tollaly agree the "size down" I mean if your 9 then a climbing shoe I would be a size 8 to 8 and a half. I wouldn't listen to the sells people but so many people are doing this at the mo, there are at least 5-6 people I have come across at the climbing wall I work complaining about the climbing shoes hurting due to the sells person advising a size down. The advise needs to change.
Merry Christmas.
In reply to Hardmanryan:
It's all quite simple really. Go to a good climbing shop, try loads of shoes on, find a pair that fits well (snug and comfortable yet you feel are supportive enough to edge, smear etc), spend a good while in them in the shop (i've spent a full afternoon in a shop doing this before) and check for hot spots etc. If you feel more comfortable with socks and all the above boxes are ticked then wear them.
Things to think of though; laced shoes allow you to tighten/loosen them in different parts of the shoe. Leather uppers will stretch, synthetics wont (maybe a little bit sometimes). Shoes with a curved heal cup will push your toes forward to maximise the closeness of the fit and bring more power to standing in tiny edges, straight heal cups are usually more comfortable but provide a less secure fit, but not in all cases if they fit you really well. Soft shoes will be better for smearing, a stiffer shoe will perform better on edges.
For beginners; if they look like they are not designed for human feet when you see them on the shelf then they are probably not for you JUST YET!
It's all quite simple really. Go to a good climbing shop, try loads of shoes on, find a pair that fits well (snug and comfortable yet you feel are supportive enough to edge, smear etc), spend a good while in them in the shop (i've spent a full afternoon in a shop doing this before) and check for hot spots etc. If you feel more comfortable with socks and all the above boxes are ticked then wear them.
Things to think of though; laced shoes allow you to tighten/loosen them in different parts of the shoe. Leather uppers will stretch, synthetics wont (maybe a little bit sometimes). Shoes with a curved heal cup will push your toes forward to maximise the closeness of the fit and bring more power to standing in tiny edges, straight heal cups are usually more comfortable but provide a less secure fit, but not in all cases if they fit you really well. Soft shoes will be better for smearing, a stiffer shoe will perform better on edges.
For beginners; if they look like they are not designed for human feet when you see them on the shelf then they are probably not for you JUST YET!
In reply to Hardmanryan:
When you put your shoe on with your toes comfortably curled in the front of the shoe, point your toe like a ballet dancer.
If there is bagginess in the heel, the shoe is too big.
If you cannot size down until this bagginess goes away without ludicrous discomfort, the shoes are not the right shape for your foot. Try again.
As an example; Street 9. I can barely get a 7 anasazi on, but even when I do with a plastic bag, there is some bagginess in the heel. 6.5 Miuras or 6 pythons, however, fit comfortably with no bagginess.
When you put your shoe on with your toes comfortably curled in the front of the shoe, point your toe like a ballet dancer.
If there is bagginess in the heel, the shoe is too big.
If you cannot size down until this bagginess goes away without ludicrous discomfort, the shoes are not the right shape for your foot. Try again.
As an example; Street 9. I can barely get a 7 anasazi on, but even when I do with a plastic bag, there is some bagginess in the heel. 6.5 Miuras or 6 pythons, however, fit comfortably with no bagginess.
Post edited at 23:35
In reply to Hardmanryan:
I would recommend for beginners getting a shoe that it's all around the foot (no gaps in the heel) and so that the all the toes are touching the front of the shoe but are not bent or crushed. Otherwise the discomfort can put them off climbing. It's also worth checking how much a shoe will stretch. Some shoes don't stretch at all, others can stretch anything from half to a full size. So it's worth knowing so the customer can make an informed choice and not just go by what the sales person wants to sell.
A couple of other tips would be to start off with your street shoe size but also try half a size up and down.
Make sure you try the shoes on a hold
Try shoes with and without socks. (Choose based on your preference)
Only buy the shoes if u can try them out for size at home if you're unsure of fit (obviously not on a wall or outdoors)
Don't go in with a shoe in mind to buy. Try a range on and don't ask friends what shoes are comfortable. Everyone's feet AND idea on comfort is different.
Check the sales person actually climbs before asking advice. Otherwise they are probably going on myths. (In the shop I work,the non climbing staff will always come and grab a staff member who climbs to serve on climbing equipment.)
When you find a good comfortable shoe, buy that exact pair. Don't buy the same model and size online as the fit could easily be slightly different. (Most shops will prove match if you have found it cheaper, but if they don't it's still worth paying that bit extra for a shoe you know fits)
The sizes on the box is also just a guide. My street size is 9.5. I have 3 pairs of climbing shoes;
Evolv pontas 2 - size 8.5
Evolv Optimus prime -size 9
La sportive mythos - size 6.5
The mythos, despite being the "smaller" size are actually the shoe with the most room and at my all day shoes. My Optimus primes are the tightest fitting shoes even though that are the "largest"
I would recommend for beginners getting a shoe that it's all around the foot (no gaps in the heel) and so that the all the toes are touching the front of the shoe but are not bent or crushed. Otherwise the discomfort can put them off climbing. It's also worth checking how much a shoe will stretch. Some shoes don't stretch at all, others can stretch anything from half to a full size. So it's worth knowing so the customer can make an informed choice and not just go by what the sales person wants to sell.
A couple of other tips would be to start off with your street shoe size but also try half a size up and down.
Make sure you try the shoes on a hold
Try shoes with and without socks. (Choose based on your preference)
Only buy the shoes if u can try them out for size at home if you're unsure of fit (obviously not on a wall or outdoors)
Don't go in with a shoe in mind to buy. Try a range on and don't ask friends what shoes are comfortable. Everyone's feet AND idea on comfort is different.
Check the sales person actually climbs before asking advice. Otherwise they are probably going on myths. (In the shop I work,the non climbing staff will always come and grab a staff member who climbs to serve on climbing equipment.)
When you find a good comfortable shoe, buy that exact pair. Don't buy the same model and size online as the fit could easily be slightly different. (Most shops will prove match if you have found it cheaper, but if they don't it's still worth paying that bit extra for a shoe you know fits)
The sizes on the box is also just a guide. My street size is 9.5. I have 3 pairs of climbing shoes;
Evolv pontas 2 - size 8.5
Evolv Optimus prime -size 9
La sportive mythos - size 6.5
The mythos, despite being the "smaller" size are actually the shoe with the most room and at my all day shoes. My Optimus primes are the tightest fitting shoes even though that are the "largest"
In reply to billyf1:
That's great advice, that is what I have been telling people about choosing a climbing shoe. There still seem to a consensus amoung some climbers that getting a smaller shoe is better for climbing this is what I'm having trouble with is telling people to get a shoe that fits so that your foot doesn't move around in the shoe it's self. The myth still is get a shoe that is tight Maybe a size smaller then your normal sizing of shoe so your climbing shoe fits like a glove, but this where all the problems start: cramping of the foot, blisters, hard skin forming on the nuckles of your toes,not been able to smear as well due foot pain from the small shoe. These a just a few of things I have notice over the years with poor choose size when coming to climbing shoes. Again there is still a myth of SMALLER SIZE OF CLIMBING SHOE IS BETTER FOR CLIMBING!
That's great advice, that is what I have been telling people about choosing a climbing shoe. There still seem to a consensus amoung some climbers that getting a smaller shoe is better for climbing this is what I'm having trouble with is telling people to get a shoe that fits so that your foot doesn't move around in the shoe it's self. The myth still is get a shoe that is tight Maybe a size smaller then your normal sizing of shoe so your climbing shoe fits like a glove, but this where all the problems start: cramping of the foot, blisters, hard skin forming on the nuckles of your toes,not been able to smear as well due foot pain from the small shoe. These a just a few of things I have notice over the years with poor choose size when coming to climbing shoes. Again there is still a myth of SMALLER SIZE OF CLIMBING SHOE IS BETTER FOR CLIMBING!
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...