UKC

I'm going to have 11 days off in march and wanted to go climbing somewhere different in uk (I usually climb in the peaks). Basicly I was looking for suggestions for good venues at that time of year for trad up to HVS grade.

In reply to andy.smythe:
Leave the decision to the last minute, study the forecasts then go for wherever looks best from West Penwith/Lakes/North Wales - loads of sub E grade classics at all these venues. Pembroke has some great climbs up to HVS, but for 11 days you want to be leading into the E grades to make the most of it. Not so familiar with North of the border, but sure there are good options there if weather is playing ball. If elsewhere is rained off then Dorset might still be OK and there is plenty of exciting VS/HVS climbing at Swanage.

In reply to andy.smythe:

SW Road Trip, go to a couple of venues.

Cornish Sea Cliffs, Dartmoor, Swanage and Avon Gorge should give you a good 11 days.

Obviously needs weather to play ball

In reply to The Ivanator:

There's plenty to do at vs/hvs in pembroke, more than enough for 11 days, but you just have to watch out in case the range is closed during the week.

I would second the suggestion of keeping an eye on the weather, and deciding at the last minute. Cornwall is often better weather at that time of year, so should be a high contender, especially if you haven't climbed there before...

I'd go for SW roadtrip too.
Pembroke is better in the extremes. There is stuff to do up to HVS, but not for 11 days and also if the weather was unfavourable there is not much alternative.

I'd do a circuit like:

Shorn Cliff (loads of quality HVS, a few easier numbers)
Baggy Point (great up to HVS)
Vicarage Cliff
Dewerstone
Dartmoor (Hound Tor, Bonehill (both better with a pad), HayTor)
Swanage/Portland (more than 1 day's worth opf climbing)

No reason why any of them shouldn't be in condition in March, and all without going west of Plymouth! Rockfax WC Climbs should cover all of the above except Shorn Cliff for which there are topos online.

I left off Avon and Cheddar crags since IMO they are either under represented or underprotected sub-E1. More knowledgeable climbers could argue otherwise.

In reply to Owen W-G:

There is plenty of reasonably well protected VS and HVS climbs in Avon gorge.

In reply to andy.smythe:

If you can get a team of four then going to Spain might not actually be much more expensive, and probably much more productive. March in the UK can be pretty bitter, tho of course you might get lucky in the south/south-west.

In reply to andy.smythe:

Ofcourse we can get any weather at any time of year anywhere in the UK pretty much, however if you are after maximising your chances of getting climbing done in March I'd concentrate on stuff in southern England and then south facing climbing on the sea cliffs.

As long as you are sheltered from the wind and its sunny 8 degrees is t shirt weather on the swanage sea cliffs!

In reply to CurlyStevo:


<chuckling at reasonably well Protected>

:-

Only Joking Avon fans.

In reply to CurlyStevo:


For 11 days?!

In reply to andy.smythe:

I'd places that would be a proper treat with a good variety like Several areas of Scotland, N Ireland, Lakes, Cornwall/Devon, Snowdonia and choose whatever is the best on the forecast as you approach the time.

In reply to andy.smythe:

cheers for the advice guys but I've just been called up to do jury service when I had planned to go so I'll have to have a rethink. Might try and go to spain in feb

In reply to andy.smythe:
Possibilities for climbing high quality sub extreme in Pembroke are endless! Dozens of excellent crags and routes on the Castlemartin peninsula, similar in the St Non's bays, St David's Head and some forgotten crags on the cardigan coast. It won' t be dry for 11days so you might have to do some coastal walking, castles, surfing or just watch the oil tankers go by.

Of course the SW peninsula is just as good and with ten times more to go at......

In reply to andy.smythe:

pembers?The climbing can feel warmish even in the winter!