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Topic - Chamonix rock route recommendations

duncan b - on 06 Jan 2014
I'm probably heading to Chamonix over the summer and have an eye on the Swiss direct, Bonatti route, Guliver's travels on the Grand Capucin and the American direct in the Dru. As I'm pretty new to this alpine malarkey I was wondering if anyone could recommend any other rock routes of a similar quality and difficulty with straight forward approaches.

Also, if anyone has any up to date knowledge on the American direct that would be much appreciated. As I understand it the top section was badly affected by a recent rock fall but the bottom is OK? Is it now common for people to ab off from the jammed block because of this or do most traverse in to the north face route. How feasible is the traverse?

Finally, forgive me if this comes across as naive, but I get the impression a lot of the classic routes are crack climbs. Are we talking Yosemite style cracks, i.e. hard and scary, or more amenable cracks supplemented with face holds?


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