UKC

Nut sizes for Cairngorms?

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 crayefish 13 Jan 2014
I wondering what nut sizes are more useful there? I can't remember for the life of me.

Only doing an easy route so don't want to take a full set of nuts/hexes so wondering whether I could drop a few from either end of the range.

Any thoughts?
 jimjimjim 13 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish: jesus h christ....I seen all the questions now. I hope ive just been successfully trolled.

OP crayefish 13 Jan 2014
In reply to jimjimjim:

Just one of those days I have lots to ask You'll have peace tomorrow.
 JohnnyW 14 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:

Did four routes at the weekend, II, III and IV, and if I recall, I used big hexes and nuts, medium ones, and a couple of wee ones.....

Seriously though, I like having my tricams for the horizontals, and used them a good bit.
 CurlyStevo 14 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:

Cairgorms tends to large ones but small nuts weigh hardly anything. Personally I'd chuck a set in, gives you more options in case routes are busy etc.
OP crayefish 14 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:

Brilliant. Thanks. Looks like old clanky blue hex will be joining.

Yeah I've always been curious about tri cams. When I have money perhaps I'll try a couple of sizes.
 CurlyStevo 14 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:

Sorry my comment was about nuts, certainly here you want a good selection of medium to large nuts. For hexes I'd probably take a couple of medium ones.
 BnB 14 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:

I love my tricams. Far more secure than cams in icy cracks and sometimes nothing else will fit on rock. Slotted one in a shothole (yes, you read that right) on Saturday two thirds of the way up a grit VS on an otherwise blank slab. Easyish ground but 10m above gear makes for a bold mantel without that reassurance.
 CurlyStevo 14 Jan 2014
In reply to BnB:

The thing is as you progress above VS gear placement tends to be a lot less sedentary and tricams are pretty fiddly to place in extremis. I guess that's why you don't tend to see many people pushing E grades regularly carrying them.

I agree they are great in winter.
 BnB 14 Jan 2014
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Agreed. I have a full set of cams and three duplicates in the common sizes. Just occasionally only a tricam with fit. But they are fiddly to place, requiring two hands.
 CurlyStevo 14 Jan 2014
In reply to BnB:

3 duplicates! You've got it bad (The magpie disease I mean)
 BnB 14 Jan 2014
In reply to CurlyStevo:

To clarify, only one duplicate in each of three sizes. They belong to a mate. He quit climbing and told me to make good use.
 CurlyStevo 14 Jan 2014
In reply to BnB:

Ahh got you... Similar set up to me then
OP crayefish 14 Jan 2014
In reply to BnB:

They require two hands? I heard they were fiddly but I would have thought that requiring two hands would limit their use not just to E grades but a bunch more as well, except on slabs of course.
 BnB 14 Jan 2014
In reply to crayefish:

You CAN place with one hand, but two makes it easier. Sometimes you need to hold them in place with one hand while tugging to set with the other.
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