/ Best single pitch E2s in Britain

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Owen W-G - on 29 Jan 2014

Putting a ticklist together. Aiming for 100. My list so far is biased towards my usual haunts (ie south of Manchester).

Any obvious candidates I've missed, in particular Yorkshire, Lakes, Lancs and the mysterious land of the Scots?


Scotland

Geriatrics Sheigra Sea Cliffs
Bloodlust Direct Sheigra Sea Cliffs
The Pillar Diabaig
The Bug Tollie Crag

N Wales

Excursion Pen Trwyn
Psychotherapy Vivian Quarry
S S Special Clogwyn y Grochan
The Strand Gogarth North Stack...
Aardvark Gogarth North Stack...
Left Wall Dinas Cromlech
Pull My Daisy Rainbow Walls
German Schoolgirl Rainbow Walls

South West

The Conger Fishermans Ledge...
Gypsy Boulder Ruckle
Four Steps to Heaven Fairy Cave Quarry
Yesterday's Dreams Wintour's Leap
New Horizons II Avon Gorge (Sea...
Hostile Witness Bench Tor
Machete Wall Chudleigh Rocks
Combined Ops Chudleigh Rocks
Sacre Coeur Blackchurch
Haile Selassie Gull Rock - Marsland
Harpoon Vicarage Cliff
Out of the Blue Lower Sharpnose...
Crimtyphon Compass Point - Bude
Rainbow Games Carn Gowla
West Wing Trewavas Head Main...
Desolation Row Great Zawn

Pembroke

Bon Voyage Misty Wall
Silver Shadow Stackpole Head
Chimes of Freedom Mowing Word
Brazen Buttress Mother Carey's...
Deranged St. Govan's Head
First Blood St. Govan's East
The Beast from the Undergrowth Huntsman's Leap
Keelhaul Bosherston Head

Clwyd/borders

Black Bastard Llanymynech Quarry
Digitron Craig Arthur
Any Which Way Trevor Rocks Area
Red Square Nesscliffe

Peak

Elegy Roaches Lower Tier
Regent Street Millstone Edge
Suspense Lawrencefield
Fern Hill Cratcliffe Tor
Five Finger Exercise Cratcliffe Tor
The Rasp Higgar Tor
Brown's Eliminate Froggatt Edge
Darius High Tor
Welcome to Hard Times Staden Main Quarry
Silenus Pic Tor
Scoop Wall Stoney Middleton

Up North

Thin Red Line Heptonstall
The Golden Tower Anglezarke Quarry
Cracked Actor Trowbarrow
Bloodhound Gouther Crags
Spring Bank Gimmer Crag
Aphasia Sergeant Crag Slabs
Bleak How Buttress Bleak How
Black Wall Eliminate Almscliff
The Witch Back Bowden Doors
Post edited at 15:16
Robert Durran - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Obvious ones off the top of my head:

Childeren of the Sea (Lewis)
Neptune (Lewis)
Edge of Beyond (Kilt Rock)
The Executioner (Reiff)
Post edited at 15:31
elliptic on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Gillette Direct (Neckband)
Equus (Gimmer)
Insanity (Curbar)
Bob on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

N. Wales

Digitron, Craig Arthur

Lakes:

Saxon, Scafell
Ichabod, East Buttress
The Cayman, Gable Napes
Gillette Direct, Neckband Crag
Fastburn, Bowfell
Equus, Gimmer Crag
Astra, Pavey Ark
Tumbleweed Connection, Goat Crag
Where Eagles Dare, Eagle Crag


York Lime
Wombat, Malham
The Diedre, Kilnsey
TRip - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

I'm not sure why you are ignoring multipitch routes.

> N Wales

>

> Excursion Pen Trwyn

Really?

> Psychotherapy Vivian Quarry

Really?

> S S Special Clogwyn y Grochan

Good but not that good.

> The Strand Gogarth North Stack...

> Aardvark Gogarth North Stack...

> Left Wall Dinas Cromlech

> German Schoolgirl Rainbow Walls

Really

Some routes that might be worth considering.

Pull My Daisy is much better than those slate suggestions.

Plastic Nerve or Falcon (E1 in my book) are of worthy consideration

Savage Sunbird and The Sun at Rhoscolyn are both very good.

Silhouette at Cloggy

Suicide Wall Route 1

Branflake at Holyhead Mountain

Aura at Craig Yr Ysfa





> Lakes

> Bloodhound Gouther Crags

> Spring Bank Gimmer Crag

Not done it but I'd have thought Equus was the obvious contender from that crag.

> Aphasia Sergeant Crag Slabs

> Bleak How Buttress Bleak How

I remember this being good, but not one of the best E2s in the UK?!

Hiddenite at Iron Crag is very good.

Pink Panther at Dow maybe?

Copenhagen at Hardknott Crag

Cayman at the Napes?

Finger Flake Finish to the Rack at Reecastle?

Ted Cheasby - Castle Rock

Through the Looking Glass - Hodge Close


Robert Durran - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Bob:

He said single pitch!
Heike - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Buenavista
Dave Kerr - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Not been many places in Scotland have you!

Got to disagree with Robert on The Executioner - Better routes at Reiff and it's not even E2! ;)

Space Monkey at Ardmair
Plague of Blazes in Glen Nevis
Anger and Lust Pass of Ballater
The Hill and Jump so High Creag Dubh
Wall St and Wish you were Here at Neist
Edge of Beyond at Kilt Rock
Owen W-G - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Single pitch please, will do a second list for MP
Chris the Tall - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Wuthering at Stanage
Robert Durran - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Dave Kerr:

> Got to disagree with Robert on The Executioner.

I am aware that some people do not share my love of this route, but, having done it about twenty five times: hands full of chunky, clean rough sandstone, steep enough to swing around on, bomber gear, a bit of technicality for the feet, best setting in the world; life does not get any better at E2 for me.
-

> Better routes at Reiff.

Yes, there are lots of even better E3's. No better E2's though!

> .....and it's not even E2! ;)

The sort of route that is easy if you are fit enough and desperate if you are not.


Chris the Tall - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

You've not got anything in North Pembroke and I can think of 3 good E2s - Orogeny at Caefai, Starling by the Seaside and Stingray at Barcud.

The problem is that they are good, not great.
notgnarly - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to TRip:

I'd vote for Pink Panther, memorable crux
Dave Kerr - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

> Single pitch please, will do a second list for MP

All of the ones I suggested are SP or can be done in a single pitch.
Bulls Crack - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Bob:

Good choices!

Pembroke - Lucky Strike


Thin Red Line's E1!

Black Bastard and Any Which Way are ok in the area but not great routes.
mike lawrence? - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Pinnacle Arete on Cloggy? great position for a single pitch route. As above The Sun packs a lot into one pitch.

mike
Dave Kerr - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Bob:

>> York Lime

> Wombat, Malham


I'm going to stick my neck out and say best in country.

Maybe.
biped - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Plague of Blazes, Glen Nevis. A must.
Owen W-G - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to TRip:

Well, some of the routes aren't of the calibre of others, but I wanted all areas covered, hence I bunged in Black Bastard for the sake of things.
saffy - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

commander energy - roaches
handrail - ramshaw
wombat - the roaches
yosemite wall - stanage
wuthering - stanage

mike123 - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:
Surprised at the inclusion of the witch at back Bowden, which is indeed superb, and not Northumberland wall , which is , IMHO , one of the few contenders for 4 stars for a single pitch.
Dave Kerr - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to mike123:
> (In reply to Owen W-G)
> Surprised at the inclusion of the witch at back Bowden, which is indeed superb, and not Northumberland wall , which is , IMHO , one of the few contenders for 4 stars for a single pitch.

Agree.

1poundSOCKS - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to mike123: It says 2 pitches in the logbook.

Tim Sparrow on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:
Extraction at Trem - done as a single pitch - stands out for me though not many will have done it that way. .. try it! You avoid staring into your leader's groin at the belay! Or does that drop it down a bit?!
Mark Collins - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Some more from Up North:
Boadicea
Mandarin
Rhododendron Buttress
End of Time

Didn't you already do this?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=510171&v=1#x6919212
robertmichaeladams - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to mike123:

yes, agreed, that route is mega
Mike Lewis - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

In Scotland, I thought Anger&Lust was even better than The Bug or The Pillar.
ianstevens - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Psychotherapy isn't even among the best E2's on the slate, let alone the country!

Plus it's well soft.
puppythedog on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

I really enjoyed Baptize You at Celestial walls near Dowards in the lower wye.
alan moore - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Chris the Tall:
Orogeny isn't up to much but thought Uncertain Smile was superb and a joke at only one star.....
Robert Durran - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
> It says 2 pitches in the logbook.

You may be confusing the single pitch Northumberland wall at Great wanney with the two pitch and therefore ineligible one at Diabaig.
Both brilliant.
Post edited at 23:05
1poundSOCKS - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Robert Durran: I probably have, I just searched the log book for a look at the route.

MischaHY - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

I see you already have Elegy on the list, but I'll re-iterate just for the sake of it. What. A. Route.
mike123 - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

you need slightly longer ropes fella
Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

I like this kind of thing.

Looking down your list there obviously aren't enough in Scotland. Totally with you on Sheigra, maybe Reiff does need a mention but not with that indifferent HVS crack The Executioner. There was a great, big, very steep juggy E2 I followed up - Cyclops maybe? up at the north end that was really superb.

For Peak grit, Elegy, Five Finger, Regent Street should do it, plus Darius for the lime. The thing about Peak limestone is that the very best routes are so so poor compared to your average Pembroke route and as such one is plenty enough. I will never understand what's supposed to be so amazing about Scoop Wall.

For Yorkshire grit, Earl Buttress and Pillar Front are totally ace. Guess Wombat should go on for Yorks lime (not done it)?

Talking of Pembroke, great choices! But Deep Space (I did it in a one-er) is way better than Beast from the Undergrowth, and Be Clever (should be E2, hopefully is in the new guides) should make it on.

For the Lakes, with you on Bloodhound. Fastburn and Pink Panther have both had a mention - couple of the best E2 pitches anywhere. There must be loads more, but I guess many of the Lakes classics are multipitch. Equus is much better than Springbank as has been said.
Robert Durran - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> Maybe Reiff does need a mention but not with that indifferent HVS crack The Executioner.

You are wrong except in that Reiff should get a mention, though E2 is not Reiff's strongest grade.

> There was a great, big, very steep juggy E2 I followed up - Cyclops maybe? up at the north end that was really superb.

Apart from Westering Home, Cyclops is the most overrated route at Reiff. It wouldn't even get three stars at Stanage. Nondescript climbing and some of the less solid seeming rock.
Double Knee Bar - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Vector, Tremadog
Robert Durran - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Double Knee Bar:
>
> Vector, Tremadog

That would need a very long rope and masterly ropework.

Owen W-G - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Double Knee Bar:

Thanks all.
Ticklist not yet finalised, but tickgeeks can subscribe here

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=762
Offwidth - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to saffy:

Lovely routes but suitable for an inclusion for a best Uk 100, really?
ads.ukclimbing.com
ebdon - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:
Don't forget the Moors! What about Ali Baba at Wainstones, this may be one of my favourite sandstone single pitch climbs
I'is always interesting to see how people's personal experiences on routes influence these things - I remember being distinctly underwhelmed by the pillar at Diabeg although I remember looking up at it and thinking - this is right up my street I should love this. Also the Execution would get HVS on grit!
Post edited at 11:51
Robert Durran - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to ebdon:

> Also the Executioner would get HVS on grit!

Grit grades being very non-mainstream/idiosyncratic and grit HVS being about the most notorious sandbag grade out there....... Having said that, I wouldn't argue with E1 for the Executioner.
Post edited at 12:17
Fiend - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Bloodlust Direct is the worst route on the main wall at Sheigra - a direct finish to much better routes where the crux is fiddling in gear. It wouldn't be in a Top 100 E2s in Scotland let alone the UK.

Executioner is probably the best of a surprisingly poor show at E2 at Reiff but is is neither good enough nor E2 enough.

Buena Vista is an essential part of the trio of steady slabby E2s around Wester Ross along with The Bug and The Pillar

The Hill Direct is truly excellent.

Jump So High Direct is hard for E3 and not as good. Wet Dreams is a better second choice at Creag Dubh.

Space Monkey, Plague of Blazes, Wall St, Wish you were Here and Edge of Beyond should definitely be on the list.

Anger And Lust is good but maybe not quite special enough.

Further additions could include:

Diode @ Glen Nevis - only 20m, but 20m of thin slab perfection.
Afterglow @ Rosehearty - a fine introduction to typical Scottish thuggyness.
Bat's Belfry and Pterodactyl @ Earnsheugh - epic single pitches, as good as Gogarth routes.
Vulture Squadron @ Grey Mare Slabs - as action packed and varied as a single pitch can get.
Warfarin @ Dunkeld - again an epic single pitch, varied, steep, thrilling etc.
Wally 1 @ Ratho - yes, it's a 15m route in a grotty quarry....I dare you to find a route more continously challenging in this style.
Brave New World @ Diabeg - amazing line, amazing climb, in an amazing situation.
Bogie @ Diabeg - would be the route of the crag on any other cliff.
Rough Justice @ Diabeg - or maybe this would?
Bold As Brass @ Stone Valley - a technical and intricate voyage on perfect rock.

Okay throw in some stuff from Caithness, Yesnaby and Ardnamurchan, I'm bored of writing lists now sorry.
Double Knee Bar - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

Doh, Good point..
bpmclimb - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Blind Faith @ Sheigra
West Wing @ Trewavas
The Don and Zulu @ Wynd Cliff
Run for Home @ Shorn Cliff
The Goblin King @ Goblin Combe
Bulging Flies @ Wintour's Leap
Wicamoi on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Fiend:

Some sensible comments and additions here, sprinkled with a piquant dash of idiosyncratic choices (or "nonsense" as some will say).

A couple more Scottish contenders that have not been mentioned:

The Pincer - Garbh bheinn
Lady Jane - Aonach Dubh
Dave Kerr - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Wicamoi:

The pincer is brill. I'd forgotton about it.

Not much from Cornwall on the list.
jon_gill1 - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

not done it but its on my list, bow wall on bosi!?
saffy - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

I suppose so, just trying to fill out the peak section a bit more ;)
Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to jon_gill1:

> not done it but its on my list, bow wall on bosi!?

Another 'long rope' suggestion!
Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to bpmclimb:

> Blind Faith @ Sheigra

What's this? An amazing E2 at Sheigra that I haven't done? There must be some mistake. Is it just another 'climb anywhere' line on 2nd Geo or is it something tucked away?
Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Fiend:
> Bloodlust Direct is the worst route on the main wall at Sheigra - a direct finish to much better routes where the crux is fiddling in gear. It wouldn't be in a Top 100 E2s in Scotland let alone the UK.

I've only second it, but I thought it was the most exciting line on the wall; a good hearty run-out up the steepest bit, finishing on big jugs and big gear just when it's all getting a bit much...what's not to like? Geriatrics is better though, more scenic.

> Executioner is probably the best of a surprisingly poor show at E2 at Reiff but is is neither good enough nor E2 enough.

Elastic Collision is pretty good E1/2 (but hardly one for a UK list)!

> The Hill Direct is truly excellent.

I found it incredibly frustrating trying to find the line (since it doesn't have one). In fact, I spent about an hour doing circuits around the middle of that stinking crag while people shouted contradictory instructions from different books about where I was supposed to go, and it just didn't seem to make any difference - I don't know whether I did some combo of that and the E3 or what. Dreadful.

> Brave New World @ Diabeg - amazing line, amazing climb, in an amazing situation.
> Bogie @ Diabeg - would be the route of the crag on any other cliff.
> Rough Justice @ Diabeg - or maybe this would?

Will have to find these on my next visit, never heard of.

> Bold As Brass @ Stone Valley - a technical and intricate voyage on perfect rock.

E3? Didn't do at as hadn't done E3 before and the name put me off!
Post edited at 18:20
Stone Idol - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Dave Kerr:

Grand Plage, Carn Barra - brilliant. Not that many single pitch E2 in Cornwall. E1 or E3 and we can pull in a few more.

Good lists
bpmclimb - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I haven't done a lot there, just one day last summer, so can't really comment on the relative merits of all the E2s. I did think Blind Faith was outstanding, however.
Fiend - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Yes but your opinion on North West Scottish sea-cliff climbs and their grades is complete arse. No offense or anything :)

Bold As Brass is pretty high in the grade yes.

The Hill Direct, climb The Hill to the big juggy niche and first bomber gear. Traverse down and left to the next big juggy niche. Climb up past this for about 8m until you can step left into the easier ground and finish direct, HTH.
Post edited at 20:03
Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Fiend:

> Yes but your opinion on North West Scottish sea-cliff climbs and their grades is complete arse. No offense or anything :)

I just haven't been brainwashed into thinking a standard 10m jamming crack is E3 by the baby-soft-hands brigade.
Tom Last - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Stone Idol:

> Grand Plage, Carn Barra - brilliant. Not that many single pitch E2 in Cornwall. E1 or E3 and we can pull in a few more.

E4 now though, apparently.
Jon Stewart - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to Stone Idol:

I did a couple of great E2s at Carn Barra, but they weren't best in UK type affairs.

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