/ Best single pitch E2s in Britain
Putting a ticklist together. Aiming for 100. My list so far is biased towards my usual haunts (ie south of Manchester).
Any obvious candidates I've missed, in particular Yorkshire, Lakes, Lancs and the mysterious land of the Scots?
Geriatrics Sheigra Sea Cliffs
Bloodlust Direct Sheigra Sea Cliffs
The Pillar Diabaig
The Bug Tollie Crag
Excursion Pen Trwyn
Psychotherapy Vivian Quarry
S S Special Clogwyn y Grochan
The Strand Gogarth North Stack...
Aardvark Gogarth North Stack...
Left Wall Dinas Cromlech
Pull My Daisy Rainbow Walls
German Schoolgirl Rainbow Walls
The Conger Fishermans Ledge...
Gypsy Boulder Ruckle
Four Steps to Heaven Fairy Cave Quarry
Yesterday's Dreams Wintour's Leap
New Horizons II Avon Gorge (Sea...
Hostile Witness Bench Tor
Machete Wall Chudleigh Rocks
Combined Ops Chudleigh Rocks
Sacre Coeur Blackchurch
Haile Selassie Gull Rock - Marsland
Harpoon Vicarage Cliff
Out of the Blue Lower Sharpnose...
Crimtyphon Compass Point - Bude
Rainbow Games Carn Gowla
West Wing Trewavas Head Main...
Desolation Row Great Zawn
Bon Voyage Misty Wall
Silver Shadow Stackpole Head
Chimes of Freedom Mowing Word
Brazen Buttress Mother Carey's...
Deranged St. Govan's Head
First Blood St. Govan's East
The Beast from the Undergrowth Huntsman's Leap
Keelhaul Bosherston Head
Black Bastard Llanymynech Quarry
Digitron Craig Arthur
Any Which Way Trevor Rocks Area
Red Square Nesscliffe
Elegy Roaches Lower Tier
Regent Street Millstone Edge
Fern Hill Cratcliffe Tor
Five Finger Exercise Cratcliffe Tor
The Rasp Higgar Tor
Brown's Eliminate Froggatt Edge
Darius High Tor
Welcome to Hard Times Staden Main Quarry
Silenus Pic Tor
Scoop Wall Stoney Middleton
Thin Red Line Heptonstall
The Golden Tower Anglezarke Quarry
Cracked Actor Trowbarrow
Bloodhound Gouther Crags
Spring Bank Gimmer Crag
Aphasia Sergeant Crag Slabs
Bleak How Buttress Bleak How
Black Wall Eliminate Almscliff
The Witch Back Bowden Doors
Obvious ones off the top of my head:
Childeren of the Sea (Lewis)
Edge of Beyond (Kilt Rock)
The Executioner (Reiff)
Gillette Direct (Neckband)
Digitron, Craig Arthur
Ichabod, East Buttress
The Cayman, Gable Napes
Gillette Direct, Neckband Crag
Equus, Gimmer Crag
Astra, Pavey Ark
Tumbleweed Connection, Goat Crag
Where Eagles Dare, Eagle Crag
The Diedre, Kilnsey
I'm not sure why you are ignoring multipitch routes.
Good but not that good.
Some routes that might be worth considering.
Pull My Daisy is much better than those slate suggestions.
Plastic Nerve or Falcon (E1 in my book) are of worthy consideration
Savage Sunbird and The Sun at Rhoscolyn are both very good.
Silhouette at Cloggy
Suicide Wall Route 1
Branflake at Holyhead Mountain
Aura at Craig Yr Ysfa
Not done it but I'd have thought Equus was the obvious contender from that crag.
I remember this being good, but not one of the best E2s in the UK?!
Hiddenite at Iron Crag is very good.
Pink Panther at Dow maybe?
Copenhagen at Hardknott Crag
Cayman at the Napes?
Finger Flake Finish to the Rack at Reecastle?
Ted Cheasby - Castle Rock
Through the Looking Glass - Hodge Close
He said single pitch!
Not been many places in Scotland have you!
Got to disagree with Robert on The Executioner - Better routes at Reiff and it's not even E2! ;)
Space Monkey at Ardmair
Plague of Blazes in Glen Nevis
Anger and Lust Pass of Ballater
The Hill and Jump so High Creag Dubh
Wall St and Wish you were Here at Neist
Edge of Beyond at Kilt Rock
Single pitch please, will do a second list for MP
Wuthering at Stanage
I am aware that some people do not share my love of this route, but, having done it about twenty five times: hands full of chunky, clean rough sandstone, steep enough to swing around on, bomber gear, a bit of technicality for the feet, best setting in the world; life does not get any better at E2 for me.
Yes, there are lots of even better E3's. No better E2's though!
The sort of route that is easy if you are fit enough and desperate if you are not.
You've not got anything in North Pembroke and I can think of 3 good E2s - Orogeny at Caefai, Starling by the Seaside and Stingray at Barcud.
The problem is that they are good, not great.
I'd vote for Pink Panther, memorable crux
All of the ones I suggested are SP or can be done in a single pitch.
Pembroke - Lucky Strike
Thin Red Line's E1!
Black Bastard and Any Which Way are ok in the area but not great routes.
Pinnacle Arete on Cloggy? great position for a single pitch route. As above The Sun packs a lot into one pitch.
>> York Lime
I'm going to stick my neck out and say best in country.
Plague of Blazes, Glen Nevis. A must.
Well, some of the routes aren't of the calibre of others, but I wanted all areas covered, hence I bunged in Black Bastard for the sake of things.
commander energy - roaches
handrail - ramshaw
wombat - the roaches
yosemite wall - stanage
wuthering - stanage
Surprised at the inclusion of the witch at back Bowden, which is indeed superb, and not Northumberland wall , which is , IMHO , one of the few contenders for 4 stars for a single pitch.
> Surprised at the inclusion of the witch at back Bowden, which is indeed superb, and not Northumberland wall , which is , IMHO , one of the few contenders for 4 stars for a single pitch.
Extraction at Trem - done as a single pitch - stands out for me … though not many will have done it that way. ….. try it! You avoid staring into your leader's groin at the belay! Or does that drop it down a bit?!
Some more from Up North:
End of Time
Didn't you already do this?
yes, agreed, that route is mega
In Scotland, I thought Anger&Lust was even better than The Bug or The Pillar.
Psychotherapy isn't even among the best E2's on the slate, let alone the country!
Plus it's well soft.
I really enjoyed Baptize You at Celestial walls near Dowards in the lower wye.
Orogeny isn't up to much but thought Uncertain Smile was superb and a joke at only one star.....
You may be confusing the single pitch Northumberland wall at Great wanney with the two pitch and therefore ineligible one at Diabaig.
I see you already have Elegy on the list, but I'll re-iterate just for the sake of it. What. A. Route.
you need slightly longer ropes fella
I like this kind of thing.
Looking down your list there obviously aren't enough in Scotland. Totally with you on Sheigra, maybe Reiff does need a mention but not with that indifferent HVS crack The Executioner. There was a great, big, very steep juggy E2 I followed up - Cyclops maybe? up at the north end that was really superb.
For Peak grit, Elegy, Five Finger, Regent Street should do it, plus Darius for the lime. The thing about Peak limestone is that the very best routes are so so poor compared to your average Pembroke route and as such one is plenty enough. I will never understand what's supposed to be so amazing about Scoop Wall.
For Yorkshire grit, Earl Buttress and Pillar Front are totally ace. Guess Wombat should go on for Yorks lime (not done it)?
Talking of Pembroke, great choices! But Deep Space (I did it in a one-er) is way better than Beast from the Undergrowth, and Be Clever (should be E2, hopefully is in the new guides) should make it on.
For the Lakes, with you on Bloodhound. Fastburn and Pink Panther have both had a mention - couple of the best E2 pitches anywhere. There must be loads more, but I guess many of the Lakes classics are multipitch. Equus is much better than Springbank as has been said.
You are wrong except in that Reiff should get a mention, though E2 is not Reiff's strongest grade.
Apart from Westering Home, Cyclops is the most overrated route at Reiff. It wouldn't even get three stars at Stanage. Nondescript climbing and some of the less solid seeming rock.
> Vector, Tremadog
That would need a very long rope and masterly ropework.
Lovely routes but suitable for an inclusion for a best Uk 100, really?
Don't forget the Moors! What about Ali Baba at Wainstones, this may be one of my favourite sandstone single pitch climbs
I'is always interesting to see how people's personal experiences on routes influence these things - I remember being distinctly underwhelmed by the pillar at Diabeg although I remember looking up at it and thinking - this is right up my street I should love this. Also the Execution would get HVS on grit!
Grit grades being very non-mainstream/idiosyncratic and grit HVS being about the most notorious sandbag grade out there....... Having said that, I wouldn't argue with E1 for the Executioner.
Bloodlust Direct is the worst route on the main wall at Sheigra - a direct finish to much better routes where the crux is fiddling in gear. It wouldn't be in a Top 100 E2s in Scotland let alone the UK.
Executioner is probably the best of a surprisingly poor show at E2 at Reiff but is is neither good enough nor E2 enough.
Buena Vista is an essential part of the trio of steady slabby E2s around Wester Ross along with The Bug and The Pillar
The Hill Direct is truly excellent.
Jump So High Direct is hard for E3 and not as good. Wet Dreams is a better second choice at Creag Dubh.
Space Monkey, Plague of Blazes, Wall St, Wish you were Here and Edge of Beyond should definitely be on the list.
Anger And Lust is good but maybe not quite special enough.
Further additions could include:
Diode @ Glen Nevis - only 20m, but 20m of thin slab perfection.
Afterglow @ Rosehearty - a fine introduction to typical Scottish thuggyness.
Bat's Belfry and Pterodactyl @ Earnsheugh - epic single pitches, as good as Gogarth routes.
Vulture Squadron @ Grey Mare Slabs - as action packed and varied as a single pitch can get.
Warfarin @ Dunkeld - again an epic single pitch, varied, steep, thrilling etc.
Wally 1 @ Ratho - yes, it's a 15m route in a grotty quarry....I dare you to find a route more continously challenging in this style.
Brave New World @ Diabeg - amazing line, amazing climb, in an amazing situation.
Bogie @ Diabeg - would be the route of the crag on any other cliff.
Rough Justice @ Diabeg - or maybe this would?
Bold As Brass @ Stone Valley - a technical and intricate voyage on perfect rock.
Okay throw in some stuff from Caithness, Yesnaby and Ardnamurchan, I'm bored of writing lists now sorry.
Doh, Good point..
Blind Faith @ Sheigra
West Wing @ Trewavas
The Don and Zulu @ Wynd Cliff
Run for Home @ Shorn Cliff
The Goblin King @ Goblin Combe
Bulging Flies @ Wintour's Leap
Some sensible comments and additions here, sprinkled with a piquant dash of idiosyncratic choices (or "nonsense" as some will say).
A couple more Scottish contenders that have not been mentioned:
The Pincer - Garbh bheinn
Lady Jane - Aonach Dubh
The pincer is brill. I'd forgotton about it.
Not much from Cornwall on the list.
not done it but its on my list, bow wall on bosi!?
I suppose so, just trying to fill out the peak section a bit more ;)
Another 'long rope' suggestion!
What's this? An amazing E2 at Sheigra that I haven't done? There must be some mistake. Is it just another 'climb anywhere' line on 2nd Geo or is it something tucked away?
I've only second it, but I thought it was the most exciting line on the wall; a good hearty run-out up the steepest bit, finishing on big jugs and big gear just when it's all getting a bit much...what's not to like? Geriatrics is better though, more scenic.
Elastic Collision is pretty good E1/2 (but hardly one for a UK list)!
I found it incredibly frustrating trying to find the line (since it doesn't have one). In fact, I spent about an hour doing circuits around the middle of that stinking crag while people shouted contradictory instructions from different books about where I was supposed to go, and it just didn't seem to make any difference - I don't know whether I did some combo of that and the E3 or what. Dreadful.
> Bogie @ Diabeg - would be the route of the crag on any other cliff.
> Rough Justice @ Diabeg - or maybe this would?
Will have to find these on my next visit, never heard of.
E3? Didn't do at as hadn't done E3 before and the name put me off!
Grand Plage, Carn Barra - brilliant. Not that many single pitch E2 in Cornwall. E1 or E3 and we can pull in a few more.
I haven't done a lot there, just one day last summer, so can't really comment on the relative merits of all the E2s. I did think Blind Faith was outstanding, however.
Yes but your opinion on North West Scottish sea-cliff climbs and their grades is complete arse. No offense or anything :)
Bold As Brass is pretty high in the grade yes.
The Hill Direct, climb The Hill to the big juggy niche and first bomber gear. Traverse down and left to the next big juggy niche. Climb up past this for about 8m until you can step left into the easier ground and finish direct, HTH.
I just haven't been brainwashed into thinking a standard 10m jamming crack is E3 by the baby-soft-hands brigade.
E4 now though, apparently.
I did a couple of great E2s at Carn Barra, but they weren't best in UK type affairs.
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