UKC

One patch of the very lowest tier has been cleared of vegetation, and a couple of bolt lines have been installed. Does anyone have any grade/FA information? Thanks.

In reply to bpmclimb:

There are three routes - 5+,6b+,6b+/c - listed in the new routes section on the CC website.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Thanks for the info - but I can't find them in the CC new routes section. Can't find anything for Wyndcliffe Quarry in fact.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Sorry - my bad. Got them now. Thanks

In reply to bpmclimb:

Shunted Fraxinus Excelsior and Eeyore's Place today, and just put both in the database. Grades seemed about right.

Didn't climb Performance Review as it was far too wet, and didn't put it in the database. No bolts - it needs a trad or boulder grade rather than sport, surely?

In reply to bpmclimb:

Any idea on what the new route is just to the left of Mr Whippy? There are 2 new bolts there but no info on it anywhere that I can see...

In reply to tommccluskey:


No idea, sorry. I was wondering the same thing yesterday. The first bolt looks pretty high up.

In reply to bpmclimb:

This is off topic i'm afraid. Do you know if much is dry in the Wye Valley? Wyndcliffe, Woodcroft Quarry or Fly Wall may be possibilities for Sunday. I might be being optimistic!

In reply to richardr:

I thought Wyndcliffe Quarry might be dry yesterday, as it didn't really rain all day, but it was mostly dripping. Just cold and damp air inhibiting the drying process, I guess. I'm not holding much hope for the next few days.

In reply to bpmclimb:

There will be dry stuff on Sunday as the winds are back to westerlies. Yesterday was the result of easterly high pressure weather with overnight drizzle and still air. Anstey's was well climbable apart from the odd bit of seepage.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Are they any good? Do you think they will stay clean or are they looking to be high maintenance? Nice to see it being developed anyway

In reply to tommccluskey:
This one?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=46169

Think it's given E2 for the high bolt? Most fairies seem to stick clip it haha

In reply to bpmclimb:

Thanks both of you. Anstey's will be a little far for the day. I'll try a tour of the Wye on Sunday and failing the climbing find a pub with a fire and some cake.

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

I think it's the line immediately right of that. I'm starting to doubt myself now, though - maybe it was CP and all the damp made it look different. Will have another look.

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

The FA details said that they didn't need much cleaning before ascent, so that projecting slice of rock is probably naturally unvegetated. Just need enough traffic to keep down the plant life at the base, I'd say.

In reply to richardr:


Talking of non-climbing attractions: did you see Choss' post about the Severn Bore forecast? Apparently a big 5-star wave due at about 9am on Sunday. I'm planning to get up early enough to see it, with a bonus of some LWV climbing afterwards if conditions permit.

In reply to bpmclimb:
Well if I remember right the line I'm thinking of is just to the left and its in logbooks like that too. Will be getting on it next time!

While we're on the Wyndcliff subject whats the deal with Bogger Bob/Shin Gi Tai? The new lower off is convenient for both routes but I think the grade of Bogger Bob is significantly easier? Looks like the old lower off for BB is 4m higher. Will lead it happily next time to the lower one!

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Yes BB easier than the given grade for most of the route, although it's quite a challenge to clip the lower-off in control.

It's a shame the lower-off is shared; it slightly spoils the finish of both routes IMO.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Agreed. I would like I to move the lower off rightwards onto Shin Gi Tai so its well out of reach of BB and renew the original lower off on BB. I'm not exactly emotional about it though

In reply to tommccluskey:

Is it actually an independent line? Studying it from Mr Whippy I thought it was probably a variant on that route; reach up left (instead of right) from the undercut below Mr W's first bolt to some crimps and the first new bolt, then straight up to join Mr W at the top. Just a guess.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

If you start left of the undercuts on Mr Whippy and climb direct to the first bolt there is a pretty much independent line which only joins the last few moves of MW. The lower section before the first bolt is quite hard and high though (similar to the Corrective Party, but harder) unless you clip the first bolt of MW, but then it seems a bit silly not to use the holds right next to it, which would make it a lot easier...

In reply to tommccluskey:

The route starts below the obvious sloper , up to very small crimps then move left up to the the big break , if you stay left of the bolts if stays tricky all the way :] it's called " Timmy's poorly hand " 7b..a tad eliminate but good climbing :]

In reply to johncorber:

cool, cheers