UKC

Over the last two winters I have been using la Sportiva trango's for winter walking and climbing up to grade III. I'm going up to Scotland in two weeks time and will probably be climbing up to at least grade IV (all following though not leading) and I am worried that my boots might not be up to the job. I didn't experience any real problems last year apart from my feat getting very cold on one especially time consuming belay but am worried this year that my boots are bendier (after a summer in the Alps and a lot of winter walking) and less waterproof than they were.

I've tired on some discounted Scrapa Jorasses which seem to fit well although they don't seem much better insulated and I worry about their long term waterproofness, not being full leather. Given the fact that I live far south of the border I don't feel that I can justify splashing out on a pair of full price Nepal's.

Any advice?

In reply to sheelba:

There will be a lot more experienced people on here but I recently got a pair of Nepal extremes for just over 200 on price match at go outdoors. £207 I think it was exactly, can't argue with that but it's still a good chunk of cash.

Matt

In reply to sheelba:

Jorasses and Trangos are quite similar in terms of the insulation structure.

If you're on a budget and are not planning any vertical ice I'd say get a pair of Mantas, they're very good boots, lot stiffer than trangos and very comfy. next step up would be a pair of second hand Nepals or MtBlancs. These two are very very good, put these together with a pair of good gaiters and you're pretty much sorted. If you think you will push harder (as it usually happens with us once up there.. go for Phantom guides or Baturas. Salewa also make amazing quality B3s for much less money it's just a bit harder to get them in the UK. Mammut Nordwands are insanely light and comfy and they come with the highest gaiter in this class.

dont recommend anything with thin insulation like , jorasses,trangos,phantom lights or carbon rebels, if you find trangos not enough warm , these models wont do the job for you.

good luck!

In reply to Mike-Tango:



I disagree! I assume that the OP has the Trango S Evos (he doesn't say though). I haven't used them, but I did use Jorasses all last winter and I'd be very surprised if they're not significantly warmer!

In reply to sheelba:

What size are you? I have a pair of La Sportiva Extreme Evo Light Gtx in great condition that I'd be willing to sell for a very reasonable price, size UK 9.

http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/trango-extreme-evo-%20lt...

In reply to sheelba:

From your profile you're only 25.
You may well live far South of the border but if the bug bites you will find yourself in the hills many times a year for decades to come.
Therefore a decent pair of boots is a wise investment.
Old adage: a pair of boots should cost a week's wages.

In reply to sheelba:

Can you fit a pair of primaloft socks in your current boots? Add some nikwax and you might get away with it for this season? Standing on a piece of roll mat can help prevent cold feet on long belays (so I've been told).

I'm heading up to Scotland later this month but as I don't get to climb in the winter very often I'm making do with what I have for my first Scottish winter trip. In reality it's going to be the lack of time climbing that will hold me back, rather than any kit. If I lived in Scotland and got out regularly it would be different.

Saying that, I did pick up a pair of Scarpa Cumbres for £80, and they regularly sell for that price online. I use these for winter walking though, so could justify it for warm feet when out with slower groups or MRT stuff.

In reply to sheelba:

Thanks for the useful advice.

Size 9 will be a bit small for me as my current Trango Evo Gtx's are 9 and a half and bit perfectly.