UKC

I've got a DMM Rhino belay biner, which I use with a Grigri 2. The "horn" on the Rhino works fine at preventing cross-loading one way, but I find it often cross-loads the other way.

Does anyone else find this? Is there anything I could do when belaying to prevent it?

I normally use a BelayMaster for belaying, so I'm not used to having to watch out for cross-loading. However the BelayMaster didn't seem to work that well with the Grigri (which is slightly strange, as the rope never touches the belay biner with a Grigri. Are Grigris fussy about being able to move freely along the top bar of the biner?)

In reply to dr_shred:

I've found a link suggesting it helps to have your brake hand in front of you, rather than to one side. Or at least I think that's what one of the replies means.
http://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1432/preventing-cross-loading-o...

In reply to dr_shred:

I've only used a gri-gri a few times but found it (and most belay devices) work perfectly well (avoid cross-loading) with an OK Oval screwgate.

Not sure why people don't just use these?

In reply to Martin1978:



I think the reason people dont use oval screwgates with GriGri's it that you for all other 'normal' belay devices you use a HMS carabiner, even tho the rope does not touch the carabiner with a GriGri you use what you have.
But thats just my opinion.

In reply to ashley1_scott:



Hi, I find an oval works best will a normal belay plate or a grigri, just doesn't seem to rotate as often.

In reply to ashley1_scott:

The OK Oval works with 'normal' belay devices also.

In reply to Martin1978:

I've heard people comment that ovals make good belay biners before, but I was always happy with my BelayMaster in the past. Maybe that is the way to go!

Plus most ovals are strong along the minor axis anyway.

In reply to dr_shred:

Is this even a real problem?

A modern screwgate will withstand a cross loading of at least 7kN. With modern ropes, it's pretty much impossible put that kind of load on the belay biker, even if you tried to. A factor two fall may get close to the limit, but I try to avoid those in the first place.

In reply to dr_shred:

Thinking about it, you may or may not have a point when using a GriGri. I use a Reverso, so I don't know if the GriGri can work as a lever when loaded across the carabiner back, amplifying the force. In that case, the concern may be real, but when using a tube style device, I wouldn't, and don't, worry about it.

In reply to supos:

I think part of the worry about cross loading with a belay device is not about the cross-load strength, but about forcing the gate open.

Figure-8 devices are notorious for this, but on the other hand it's well-nigh impossible with a typical tube device. Not sure with a grigri, but I guess it's somewhere in between.

http://theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/Karabiner_Breakings_when_using_a_Fig...

In reply to supos:


I doubt it's significant, but I'd much rather have complete peace of mind. Certainly if you were trad climbing it would be well down on your list of things to worry about!


I wouldn't have said there's a lever effect -- but the Grigri does give a hard catch, which will push any forces towards the upper end of the range.

In reply to Jack B:


That makes sense - especially as that's where the device does end up on the Rhino, the horn prevents it from going the other way.