UKC

I, my partner, and my 15 year old son are going to the West of the USA for three weeks in the summer. We want to climb a desert tower. My partner and I climb plenty of adventurous stuff in the E grades, however it needs to be no more than 5.7 as otherwise my 'climb when he has to' son is not going to enjoy the experience, and that is the name of the game. Any recommendations?

Also any good sea stacks down the West coast as we have a bit of a penchant for ticking those too (San Diego area would be good as son is going to a gaming conference for 4 days).

In reply to philhilo:

Hi Phil,

South face of the South Six Shooter in Indian Creek would be a good one, amazing views, hardish mantel on the last pitch but its right at the top (not too far from the belay/abseil chains, so you can gice you son a bit of encouragement! or pull if required.
Take helmets though, quite a bit of loose rock.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/south-face/105717562

Or this looks amazing, not done it though!(Looking glass rock)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/108142241
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/regular-route-aka-east-rib/106861093


Si

In reply to Simonj:

I did the easy route up Looking Glass Rock last year. The climbing really is very easy with the crux in the first 10 feet and then 3 pitches to the top (about Severe max). The highlight is the decent, which comprises an abseil through a narrow window in the rock and then about 150 feet of free hanging abseil back to the ground. If the abseil decent proves too intimidating, you can decend back down the rib of the route; it's all bolted. The rock is about 45 mins drive south of Moab. The parking is at the base of the rock. The whole thing only takes a couple of hours.

Good easy fun.

In reply to philhilo:

Watch out for the heat in the desert summer! March April early May are usually the best times in spring. June July August will be a bit hot- or maybe you already know that!

Brian

In reply to philhilo:

Yeah, desert rock in summer is crazy hot, you will need something shady, not even mad dogs climb in the desert sun that time of year.

You could look for something in one of the other canyons at Red Rocks, there's lots of good easy stuff, but they're not desert towers in the sense you mean. The walk in will likely be grim; not far, but stupid hot most of the time.

In reply to philhilo:

Thanks folks, lots of great info there. Yes I had thought of the heat issue as I wrote the post....desert....summer....doh, hot!

In reply to philhilo:

Something generally smaller than most desert towers but most definitely in the pinnacle department would be some climbs in the Needles of South Dakota, either trad routes in Custer State Park or sport routes in Mt. Rushmore State Park. Mostly one pitch, a few longer. The Conn Diagonal Route on the Outer Outlet comes to mind as the sort of outing that could fit the bill: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/conn-diagonal/105714734 . The weather can be hot in summer but nothing remotely like the desert, which will be brutal.

In reply to philhilo:

I'd maybe avoid any, given what you say, as even the easiest towers have issues. I'd also suggest asking your son to read a book on the odd day and do some yourself as loads are accesible at around 5.9 (which is usually more E1 on desert towers than HVS). Owl Rock a soft 5.9 in Arches NP is maybe the only one I can think of that may be suitable with your son being uncomplicated single pitch HVS 5a crack with an easy abseil descent.

In reply to philhilo:

HI I've done S Sixshooter, Looking Glass and Owl Rock. All great and would fit your criteria but different.

Sixshooter is a decent hike in and longer without a 4wd. Climbing is fun and easy apart from that one move. Hiking in could be horrible in the heat.

Looking GlassRock is very easy to access. 2 mins from the car and, as mentioned above only takes a couple of hours so beginning or end of day would work for the heat.

I'd go for LG.

Or Owl Rock maybe - 1 pitch of 5.9 - 2 mins from the road also.

Mountain Project for info.

In reply to philhilo:

perhaps the North Chimney (5.8) on Castleton - shady & on a classic desert tower (not to be confused w. North Face 5.11).

In reply to rpc:

Seen films of that... looks hard and serious for the grade.... no place for a nervous 5.7 second.

In reply to philhilo:

Did led by sheep in Zion - on the plateau to the east, so a bit cooler, 5.7 and some bolts ... Nice experience, but not exactly a tower.

In reply to philhilo:

Lots of great ideas, Looking Glass Rock does look amazing and a quick in and out if my son did not fancy it on the day, good reason to get a camper for the journey. Thanks everyone, lots of research to do now.