UKC

Does anyone know which guide book or site has the topo's for Capo testa in Sardinia?

In reply to Lukem6:

Capo Testa itself is, contrary to appearances, utterly crap for actual bouldering. It's a coarse grained, sea washed granite with a very crumbly surface and the landings are horrifying.

Pietra di Luna describes a couple of cragging areas in the vicinity

In reply to AlanLittle:
trad, sorry. I know its short but i'm meeting people near by. I have 4th edition pietra di luna but only describes the sport crag

I would not say that the 13 problems described on this Capo Testa topo http://www.pietradiluna.com/blog/images/topos/capotesta_c.jpg fit with the opinion "..utterly crap for actual bouldering. It's a coarse grained, sea washed granite with a very crumbly surface and the landings are horrifying." Number 5 for instance as it traverses left has a bad landing, but the slab to the R is perfect. I enjoyed my day doing these problems a few years ago. I also enjoyed climbing on the bolted routes at Cala Spinosa, although I don't know what the state of the bolts is now. The 5th edition of Pietra di Luna lists "Fluttuazioni at Cala Spinosa, just the shape of the rock is a delight" as Number 70 of the island's best routes, I would agree with this even with a single bolt lower-off.
There are more topos for nearby La Maddalena here: http://www.bloccobirra.com/img/contones/maddalenamappa.jpg and http://www.bloccobirra.com/img/contones/maddalenamappa2.jpg I haven't climbed here but the 13 Capo Testa problems look to have better rock and landings.
Have fun Peter

In reply to Peter Herold: sorry Peter I'm looking for the trad Topo, we're not bothered about bouldering and want to do the trad that I have seen some pictures of. Pietra di luna talks of a trad crag, thats the topo I'm looking for.

anyone else got any idea where to find a topo or which guide book will have the Trad routes(via classica) for Capo testa

Like this crag

s2.ilooove.it/~files/library/spots/2570/.thumb/18_110920132832.jpg

In reply to Lukem6:

Not helpful in the slightest but my first every trad route was on Capo testa. Only becuase we thought some of it might be bolted but if it was we didn't find it.

We had some slings and a set of wires, which were utterly useless on rounded flaring granite cracks. I had a major case of disco leg at the absolute lack of gear, one of those really 'what are we doing moments'. THe next pitch was an adventure scrambing through massive slot formed by a house sized slab leaning against the rock, followed by a more amenable pitch before we found ourselves at a dead end and retreated from an abseil rig that with hindsight we should have bricked ourselves about. I remember being worn out but buzzing, and unable to do my stint driving the rental later.

We called it Valley of the foot groovers, in honour of my mid-crux wobble.

Hell of a lot more than a bouldering venue!

In reply to Max factor: more helpful than you know.